as of last weekend i have the clutch pedal assembly installed and have picked up a new clutch plate and resurfaced my flywheel. Now I have some questions for the others who have completed this swap.

1. Is there a return spring for the clutch pedal? (hydralic clutch)

2. Will I have to remove the Y-pipe?

3. Can I use the same starter?

4. What kind of tranny fluid should I use?

5. How hard is it and what did you use to cut the floor and the holes in the firewall?

thank you Paul

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Moderator of the Ontario board
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1987 Trans AM

• 305 LG4 5.0L
• WS6
• 700R4 (T5 IN PROGRESS)
• 3.42 posi
• 152,000km
• Black on gold trim
• t- tops
• K&N
• Flowmaster 80 series
• Gutted Cat
• Sony X-plod deck
• Kenwood 4 X 6s
• Prestige 6 x 9s
• 2 crunch 10" bandpass
• Boss 500w X 2 amp

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IN PROGRESS

t5 swap
status: Brake and Clutch pedal assembly installed
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paulhughes@home.com
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KILLS:

87 IROC-Z, 79 Corvette, 93 Honda civic si , 88 MUSTANG H.O, 98 Mustang , 99? Dodge Ram 2500, 95 Acura Integra, 00 Cavalier z24, many many ricers

Favorite losses

87 Grand National, 99 Viper Rt/10, 69 Firebird

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my ride
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No return spring. Don't have to move the Y pipe. I use a 1 1/2' hole saw to cut the hole for the master. Gonna have to pull the column. Don't have to pull the brake master as the tech article says. At least I didn't have to. Use regular ATF tranny fluid. I used an air chisel to cut the hole in the floor for the shifter. Cut it like butter. A die grinder will take forever. Not too hard. I rebuilt my tranny, just got it running today and the biotch grinds in 2nd gear. Now I have to take it back out. Oh well.

Brad...



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1986 SC Camaro
Mods: Threw 2.8 in garbage, put in rebuilt
350 .060 over, XE268H Comp cam, Edlebrock
Performer Intake and Edlebrock 600 CFM Carb,
Pete Jackson noisy GearDrive (which sounded
cool for about 5 minutes, now I'm sick of it)
Rebuilt TH350, 3.42 Rear Gears. LCA RLB's.
B&M Mega Shifter.
Now has T5 in it. YES!!!

 

There is no reason to pull the column. All it takes is a little creative use of the ratchet. All I did was take out the 2(?) upper column mount bolts and let it drop 2" or so and it worked just fine.

As far as using ATf: I used it after I put mine in but noticed that it would grind the 2-3 and sometimes the 3-4. I switched to regular gear lube and the grinding stopped. Only problem is that on a cold morning it is nearly impossible to shift until the tranny warms up.

Just my $0.02

Dale

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1986 FireBird
2.8L MPFI
1/2 CAI
Gutted Cat, No muffler
Was 700-R4 --> Now T5
**** Great cars aren't bought, they're built ****

 

Good idea. Wish I would have thought of that. Oh well. Next time. And I'm sure there will be one.

Brad...

 

Also don't forget to reroute the ground wire for the hatch release (black with white stripe) from the auto shift lever assy to the ground of the parking brake. If you don't you'll have to press on the clutch to release the hatch. The large gage purple wire is rerouted to the Neutral Safety Switch on the clutch pedal. If you have a cruise control there is another wire to splice over to the clutch that disconnects the cc when you press the clutch. I suggest the roller bearing style of input shaft bearing over the solid bronze one.

Your welcome and good luck, Lon.


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90 RS Convertible
Owner: Top-Down Solutions
(626)369-0040

http://www.sc3gfb.org/members/lonsal.html
http://www.taskerinc.com/gs3/profiles/Lon_profile.htm

 

what about the starter

 

As I replied earlier. The stock GM starter for an automatic equipped car is too large in diameter. One of the little surprises I discovered during my swap. the nose of the starter won't fit through the hole in the dust shield, that's your first clue that something is amiss. I ran down to Kragen and got a lifetime rebuilt starter, came back home to install it. Only to discover that the bolts for the automatic equipped starter are about 1/2" too long. They have roll formed threads, so it's not possible to just re-thread them. You COULD use a bunch of washers to take up the gap though. An aftermarket mini-starter will work with either auto or T5 application. But is more expensive. FYI, there is also a brace at the rear of the starter. It is also different, since the GM starter for a T5 is also shorter. I got my brace from a Pick-a-Part. Many people just leave that brace off. I probably don't have to mention it, but I will. Be sure to shim the new starter per the instructions. Good luck, Lon.

 

I have 1984 trans am it is late year model i did the t5 swap in may of this year and didnt have to change starters,it fit in the t5 bellhousing so i guess you will have to wait and see.. Kevin

 

I just finished doing a auto to T-5 swap last weekend, it was a snap.There is no spring used with the hyd. clutch set up. I diddnt have to change the starter.I had no problems mounting the starter after the bell housing and dust shield were on.There may be slight differences in starters from year to year though, im not sure about that. Everything went together pretty easily.I used tin snips to cut the hole for the shifter, the snips make a nice clean cut.You can use the 2 support bars from the pedal assembly as a template for your slave cylinder holes.The hardest part about the swap is getting your speedo right.You need to know which speed sensor to use for the year car you have and rpo code for that sensor if you dont have a part number, and you need to get the correct speedo gears for your final drive ratio.

 

I've been told that early cars already have the smaller diameter starter. Mine is a 90 and had to be swapped.