Well, I bought the "conversion parts" off a guy 3 years ago and i'm finally doing the swap now. Problem is, it is now that I feel i'm missing parts or have the wrong parts.

I just found out that the flywheel I have is wrong. The tooth count is correct (153) but the crank bolt spacing is too big (on my crank the holes are 3 inches across from each other where the flywheel I have is 3 9/16 inches from each other. Probably just get one at Napa.

I don't have pressure plate to flywheel bolts. Anybody have any?

I don't have the lower dust shield or the bolts. Anybody got one?

Will the flexplate to crank bolts work for the flywheel (probably not). Anybody have any?

The torque arm mount for the auto isn't the same for the 5sp?? It doesn't seem to line up.

In the Chilten's book it shows reinforcing rods that connect the pedal assy. to the u-bolt that holds the clutch master cyl. Mine doesn't have them. Is that O.K.?

I also don't have that u-bolt. Anybody got any?

I don't have whatever the master cyl. rod connects to the pedal? Got one?

Does anybody know the exact location to drill for the clutch master cylinder? Measurements from reference points?


This really sucks. It's all new to me and these are things I didn't even think of when I got the stuff. I only paid $160 for the trans., x-member, bellhousing, (wrong)flywheel, pedal assy., and used, broken clutch master cyl. and slave cyl.

What also sucks is i'm doing this because the motor in my primary means of transportation got hydrolocked while wheeling. So i'm kinda pressed for time.

Thanks for any info and help you can get.

 

No info at all?

 

The bolts for the flywheel to crank and the pressure plate to flywheel are available in a package at Advance auto or NAPA. They are a Mr Gasket set if I remember right. I am doing this swap now.

Check the input shaft on our trans. It should have 24 teeth or so. The 14 tooth input shaft is for a six cylinder and the clutch will not match it. I am going through the hassel of finding a clutch/flywheel combination that will work rather then changing the input shaft. Ensure the input shaft is right before trying to stuff in the trans.

My torque arm appears to be longer then needed. Looks like it will mount up allright, just hangs about an inch or so out the front of the mount. Don't think this is any problem.

You need the braces for the clutch master cylinder. Otherwise you will wear out the firewall as it flexs from the pressure. Check a U-pull it. The u bolt is the same answer. It ties all of the pieces together. Again, a u pull it. I don't have any extra parts or I would hook you up.

My firewall had a hole in the firewall already. The car is an 82 automatic car, but I took out a rubber plug glued in and it was the big hole for the clutch. I just reshaped it slightly with a ball peen hammer and drilled the two bolt holes. See if you have a hole that is covered up. Take out the brake booster, you have to remove it to change the pedals anyway.

 

Good call on the bolt kit! I'll check it out. Worst case I hear ARP carries them as well but I hate waiting.

Checked the input shaft. I'm good there.

My torque arm mount won't transfer onto the 5sp. It's a totally different bracket from the auto. I herd Spohn or somebody makes a bracket that attaches to the crossmember if I can't find the proper bracket for the 5sp. I'm gonna try to find the cheaper bracket first.

I figured the brackets were to help the firewall. Like you said, i'm gonna head out to the yard tomm.

I don't have the hole for the clutch master cylinder. DO ME A FAVOR WHILE YOUR'S IS APART! MEASURE HOW FAR DOWN AND HOW FAR OVER FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE HOLE FOR THE BRAKE BOOSTER TO THE CENTER OF THE HOLE FOR THE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER HOLE. That should give me a good reference point for mine. I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks alot for the help and advise. And good luck on your swap as well.

 

for the master cylinder hole. The pedal assembly has 2 "feet" that extend down and to the firewall for support, the holes in the feet are the same for the master. Drill those two, then the oval hole goes between them.

I also noticed on my car that the padding under the carpet has a pattern in if for this hole as well. It will get you in the right ballpark.

 

O.K. so the feet help in the location. Cool, thanks. I'm now starting to wonder where my pedal assy. came from as it does not contain these "feet". My assy. came from a package that I bought off a guy 3 years ago. I'm assuming it came from whatever vehicle the flywheel came off of as that doesn't fit either.I know exactly what you are referring to though.

My car does have the markings in the padding as well.

Guess i'm definately off to the junk yards tomm.

Thanks for your help. Every little bit helps me understand a little bit better. When i'm done, i'll "pay it forward" by helping the next guy.

 

the flywheel may not fit because you have a 1 pc rear main seal and they flywheel is a 2pc rear main, or the other way

 

Good call! I have a 1pc RMS so i'll have to remember that when I go to the auto parts store.

Thanks!

 

Did you get the bolts? The bolt size for the pressure plate to flywheel are 3/8-16 x 1" while the flywheel to crank bolts are 7/16-20 x 1".The T5 to V8 pressure plate bolts are 7/16-14, however, I do not know the length. I figure the bolts could be purchased at Lowe's/Home Depot/NAPA in the pullout drawers.

 

I finished the conversion!! Everything's working great. I had a problem with the plastic retainer/bushing on the master cyl. arm to pedal breaking but was repaired with a c-clip.

Thanks to everyone for their help. I'll link up a finished product thread once I make it.

Here you go:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...-5sp-pics.html

 

My swap is coming along slowly, but I will eventually get there.