I was just wondering cause I seem to do this often and was wondering what it hurts and all. What i mean by neutral drop is rev it up in nutral throw it into drive and give it gas.

 

And it's still alive? You must want to rebuild trannys a lot.

An automatic transmission is not a manual with a clutch. If you want to have a high rpm launch then buy a higher stall converter.

All you are going to do is destroy the tranny and torque converter.

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Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car

87 IROC-Z SuperPro ET Bracket Race Car
461 naturally aspirated Big Block

Best ET on a time slip: 11.447 altitude corrected to 10.99
Best MPH on a time slip: 119.42 altitude corrected to 124.86
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 493
Best 60 foot: 1.586

Racing at 3500 feet elevation with a typical race day over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley

 

Clink clang clunk clunk is the common sounds after a few neutral drops. Definatly not a good idea if you need the car to get you from point a to point b. A classic example of why n drops are bad: Take a car that makes only 200 ft-lbs of torque at a high idle around 1200rpm and makes about 380 ft-lbs at about 3200rpm. Now imagine taking an engine with 380 ft-lbs at idle and putting it into gear but also imagine the parts in the tranny after a shock of having the wheels not moving and having to overcome that static friction after just being put into gear. It's hard to explain but it's almost as if you removed the torque converter and installed a solid spool! Every time you put it into gear it's giving the tranny one HELL of a shock and probably breaking off a few teeth.

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, Jon (350 TBI!)
91 Red My website

 

I'll make a deal with you. If you promise to keep paying me to repair the tranny when it lets go I will keep voiding the warranty on the tranny!!!

 

To a certain extent, a carbureted car "neutral drops" every time you put it in to drive while it's high idling (~1500 rpm), so they have to be able to take it to some extent. Or is it only a neutral drop if the brake pedal is not pressed?

At any rate, the car usually jerks pretty good, and it usually makes me cringe... I can't imagine putting it into gear at any higher rpm.

 

Used to do "neutral drops" all the time when I owned a Lumina, and I was young and stupid. Worried once that I screwed up the tranny doing this when I noticed an occasional clicking when driving around. Took it to a local tranny shop and while diagnosing it they ran the engine in park for about five minutes at high idle. The clicking got progressively louder until the engine seized. Turns out the oil pump was failing, hence the clicking, and they ran it till the oil pressure was gone. Jerks cost me $1300 for another engine.

Consequently, if you live near or ever are in Chattanooga, NEVER go to a transmission place. That's not the only shop here that's screwed me over, and from everyone I talk to, they all suck.

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91 Camaro RS - Engine: 350 bored 60 over, Edelbrock 600 and Performer RPM intake, mild cam upgrade, flat pistons, 3 angle valve job, moly rings and pushrods, HV Melling oil pump, double-roller timing chain, stiffer valve springs, Hedman 1-5/8 headers, Flowmasters, K&N filter, 100 amp alternator Suspension: KYB adjustable gas shocks and struts, Eibach coil springs, poly trans mount and end-link kit, Falken tires.

 

Neutral Slam = Bad I have a friend who used to do it all the time, I told him he would tear it up and he didn't listen to me. Guess who had the last laugh? He did it one day and repainted a parking lot with ATF to the tune of about $1200. I told him so .

 

i was lucky. i used to do em, cuz that was the only way my little 2.8 would peel out. i only busted a tranny mount. but in hind sight, that might have had a hand in causing my tranny to vibrate at 1800-2200 rpm's recently.

 

About as bad as your ******** in a shop vice.

 

I did this a couple of times in my dads 75 Caprice when I barely learned how to drive. Amaizingly that thing held together, those TH350 trannies are strong.

 

Just because the trans will take it for a while, doesn't mean other things will. When I was 16, I tried doing a few in my old '77 Park Avenue. (TH350 trans, Olds 403 motor)

The trans lived to tell about it, but I blew the front yoke and u-joint to bits! When I went to pick up the pieces, the u-joint bearings were red hot

 

i got my tranny rebuilt after bought my car becuase of a bad converter. like two months later there was a problem with it, so i brought it back to the place. they said that i neutral dropped it, i told them that i wasnt that STUPD, blah blah blah. they fixed it for free, probably because of a defective part. BUT..the moral of the story is that they told me that 700R4s can usually take a "neutral drop" up to about 1800 rpms.

but sure if thats all 700s or just the 700s that they prepare.

either way...i dont put mine into gear in its over 1000. heres a trick that i learned. its kind of a bandaid..if its idleing over 1000 (when its warming up or whatever) put it into reverse first. reverse can "take" a the higher RPMs a LOT better than forward for some reason. so i put it in reverse to slow the revs of the engine, then throw it in drive.

i know it sounds stupid, but sometimes, its the only thing i can do.

but here is my advice. DO NOT DO NEATRAL DROPS!! they are terrible for the tranny, as well as the rest of teh drivetrain. you probably look like a fool too...people do it all the time and always get made fun of when their car hops away after a gig BANG from the tranny.

-brian

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1991 Camaro RS
GMPP 350 HO crate engine w/TBI
Homepage z28boy@twcny.rr.com AIM - "Z28 Boy"