Transmission Removal
Transmission Removal
Hi there. I've got an 82 chevy camaro with the 305 in it and i believe the stock trans is a 200r4?? But i was told it had a new trans put in it so they might have changed it. I am planning on pulling both the engine and tranny and was wondering if it is best to pull them out together?
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From: Nowthen, MN
Car: 87 monte aerocoupe
Engine: 383 HSR w/ novi 2000
Transmission: Built 4l80e circle d converter
Axle/Gears: Currie 9" 3.89 gears
Re: Transmission Removal
I would pull them together. Just make sure you have the car in the air high enough. Also have a pan ready behind the trans as you take it out to catch the majority of fluid as it goes up or plug the tailshaft before you take it out.
Re: Transmission Removal
I've pulled a 305 with the transmission still bolted up once, and I'll never do it again. 
It's that much more weight that you've got to lift with the hoist. The tailshaft will hang down, so it dumps ATF everywhere. With the transmission on the back, the load doesn't balance so the engine has to be higher up in the air to clear the top of the radiator support. It's a bad idea from start to finish.

It's that much more weight that you've got to lift with the hoist. The tailshaft will hang down, so it dumps ATF everywhere. With the transmission on the back, the load doesn't balance so the engine has to be higher up in the air to clear the top of the radiator support. It's a bad idea from start to finish.
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,347
Likes: 2
From: Western WA
Car: 85 Camaro
Engine: No
Transmission: No
Axle/Gears: No
Re: Transmission Removal
I've pulled a 305 with the transmission still bolted up once, and I'll never do it again. 
It's that much more weight that you've got to lift with the hoist. The tailshaft will hang down, so it dumps ATF everywhere. With the transmission on the back, the load doesn't balance so the engine has to be higher up in the air to clear the top of the radiator support. It's a bad idea from start to finish.

It's that much more weight that you've got to lift with the hoist. The tailshaft will hang down, so it dumps ATF everywhere. With the transmission on the back, the load doesn't balance so the engine has to be higher up in the air to clear the top of the radiator support. It's a bad idea from start to finish.
It doesn't matter if you have to pull more weight with the hoist, that's why you have a hoist to begin with. I don't see why it matters having to lift it up higher.
It's much easier to pull them together. Lift it up some, pull it forward some, etc, etc. The front end of the car doesn't have to be too high. Small three ton jack stands will hold the front end high enough. The might even still be on sale at Napa for $19.99 a pair, incase you don't have any...
Get a spare yoke to put in the back of the transmission, that will keep all the ATF from draining out. Or just keep a drain pan under the end of the tranny.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 615
Likes: 1
From: Warrenton, VA
Car: 1987 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: LS1
Transmission: LS1 T56
Axle/Gears: Richmond 3.73
Re: Transmission Removal
thats pretty much all there is to it.
why pull the engine and trans? its easy enough to just yank the trans from the bottom. with the car on jack stands just unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate, undo all the hoses linkages and cables, put a 9x9x1 peace of wood on a floor jack and put it under the trans oil pan to hold the trans up, unbolt the trans crossmember and torque arm, lower the trans a little bit to get access to the top bell housing bolt and unbolt it from the engine, then finally lower the trans and take it out.
if you are going to pull the engine and trans then just drop the k-member from the bottom.
why pull the engine and trans? its easy enough to just yank the trans from the bottom. with the car on jack stands just unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate, undo all the hoses linkages and cables, put a 9x9x1 peace of wood on a floor jack and put it under the trans oil pan to hold the trans up, unbolt the trans crossmember and torque arm, lower the trans a little bit to get access to the top bell housing bolt and unbolt it from the engine, then finally lower the trans and take it out.
if you are going to pull the engine and trans then just drop the k-member from the bottom.
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Re: Transmission Removal
Thanks for the help guys. Just one more question though. Is there any certain kind of extra long extension or uncommon/special tool im gonna end up needing before i do this? I just want to make sure i have everything i need before i get started. I think im gonna pull em out together since i have a hoist that will lift the whole car in the air if need be.
Re: Transmission Removal
Maybe you had to small of a hoist?
It doesn't matter if you have to pull more weight with the hoist, that's why you have a hoist to begin with. I don't see why it matters having to lift it up higher.
It's much easier to pull them together. Lift it up some, pull it forward some, etc, etc. The front end of the car doesn't have to be too high. Small three ton jack stands will hold the front end high enough. The might even still be on sale at Napa for $19.99 a pair, incase you don't have any...
Get a spare yoke to put in the back of the transmission, that will keep all the ATF from draining out. Or just keep a drain pan under the end of the tranny.
It doesn't matter if you have to pull more weight with the hoist, that's why you have a hoist to begin with. I don't see why it matters having to lift it up higher.
It's much easier to pull them together. Lift it up some, pull it forward some, etc, etc. The front end of the car doesn't have to be too high. Small three ton jack stands will hold the front end high enough. The might even still be on sale at Napa for $19.99 a pair, incase you don't have any...
Get a spare yoke to put in the back of the transmission, that will keep all the ATF from draining out. Or just keep a drain pan under the end of the tranny.

And the post itself...
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/post...75-post16.html
I just don't like the idea of an imbalanced 500lbs load being suspended 6 feet off the ground by a couple of bolts and some Chinese chain. If anything fails anywhere between the seals in the hydraulic ram, to the threads in the engine, I'd rather not have that much dead weight crashing down. Like I said I've done it once, and I won't do it again.
As far as having the car in the air, you can disconnect everything from the bottom and set the car back on the ground before lifting the engine out. Once everything is disconnected there shouldn't be any reason anyone should need to get back under the car. You still have to get the engine about 6ft off the ground to get the tailshaft to clear the radiator support.
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,347
Likes: 2
From: Western WA
Car: 85 Camaro
Engine: No
Transmission: No
Axle/Gears: No
Re: Transmission Removal
Yeah, it sounds great on paper... Until you actually get into it. When you pull an engine with the transmission still mounted, you increase the weight, and you're lifting it from one end...
I just don't like the idea of an imbalanced 500lbs load being suspended 6 feet off the ground by a couple of bolts and some Chinese chain. If anything fails anywhere between the seals in the hydraulic ram, to the threads in the engine, I'd rather not have that much dead weight crashing down. Like I said I've done it once, and I won't do it again.
As far as having the car in the air, you can disconnect everything from the bottom and set the car back on the ground before lifting the engine out. Once everything is disconnected there shouldn't be any reason anyone should need to get back under the car. You still have to get the engine about 6ft off the ground to get the tailshaft to clear the radiator support.
I just don't like the idea of an imbalanced 500lbs load being suspended 6 feet off the ground by a couple of bolts and some Chinese chain. If anything fails anywhere between the seals in the hydraulic ram, to the threads in the engine, I'd rather not have that much dead weight crashing down. Like I said I've done it once, and I won't do it again.
As far as having the car in the air, you can disconnect everything from the bottom and set the car back on the ground before lifting the engine out. Once everything is disconnected there shouldn't be any reason anyone should need to get back under the car. You still have to get the engine about 6ft off the ground to get the tailshaft to clear the radiator support.
I didn't think about pulling a TPI engine, but I would have removed the intake on that and used a load leveler. I removed the carb and bolted a carb plate on to remove my engine. It wasn't nearly that unbalanced.
That pic is stupid. That person made it complicated. I would never pull an engine like that. I like to disassemble things when they are out of the car and easy to access.
Sure, you do have to lift it higher up, but, again, that is why you have a hoist, makes that part easy.
Re: Transmission Removal
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 410
Likes: 0
From: Petal Ms.
Car: 1990 Iroc
Engine: 6.0
Transmission: 4l65E
Axle/Gears: 373 zexel torsen
Re: Transmission Removal
That has to be this best picture of what not to do. Like Greg said use a good hoist with a load leveler and you can raise or lower engine or tranny as you wish. I pulled one complete engine,tranny out in about 15 min.After I hooked the hoist up to it. But dropping the trans by itself is not any worse than any other car , just get an extension about 2 ft long with a swivel.
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Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 857
Likes: 5
From: Niles, IL
Car: '91 LS6/T56/9"
Engine: LS6
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Currie 9"/4.11, detroit truetrac
Re: Transmission Removal
That has to be this best picture of what not to do. Like Greg said use a good hoist with a load leveler and you can raise or lower engine or tranny as you wish. I pulled one complete engine,tranny out in about 15 min.After I hooked the hoist up to it. But dropping the trans by itself is not any worse than any other car , just get an extension about 2 ft long with a swivel.
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