im planning on rebuilding my 700R4 here in a couple weeks and i want to take care of any potential problems than may occur later down the road. i am planning on putting better gears in it (3.73-4.11) and puting a mild 350 in it and i wanna make sure the tranny can handle it, any thoughts?

 

probuilt rebuild kit would be a nice addition

 

where could i buy one? and how does that tranny handle ur 3.90 gears?

 

i believe its probuilt.com Talk to Dana he will help you out. I got there 550ish horsepower kit. It has held up great for 2 years so far. And I have around 30 passes on it or more

 

i heard that the stock input drum is a weak point, if i replaced that should i replace the shaft too or just the drum?

 

Actually here is the link. http://www.700r4l60e.com/

 

holy sh*t man...i dont have that kinda cash to spend on the tranny, but ill keep it in mind, what about the input drum? ^^

 

Please refrain from bypasing the swear filters.

 

I've bought parts from transmissionpartsusa.com for other transmissions I've done.

* Corvette servo for $9.44 (I paid $20)
* Beast sun shell for $43.99 (bought mine for $56)
* 4L60E 5-pinion planetary for $81.00 (didn't upgrade mine because it was $240 for a kit, so you might want to research what all is required)
* L60E 29 element input sprag for $40.12 (you might want to research if that will work, but I believe I read that you can upgrade that as well)

I used the Beast shell in mine when I rebuilt my 700R4, but that was before I found that site.

* You might also want to look into upgrading pump to 13 vane pump
* Of course there are bands and clutches of various materials which you can purchase to suit your needs.

Aside from that stuff you can do a shift kit and upgrade clutch spring packs. Just browse around and double check everything on the list I gave to make sure it suits your goals. I bought my shiftkit from Dana at Probuilt and have been very satisfied with it. I will admit I did a few things wrong when installing and am going to be working on it again before spring. I overdrilled a hole and now 2nd hits so hard it throws me forward if below 2-grand. I also installed the wrong plug for the tail housing return, so fluid leaks out the rear seal(getting fixed before spring).

I havn't been able to really beat on mine since the rebuild since I only had the 305, and have been tuning the new motor so I can honestly tell you I would have done mine different had I known about the lower prices and done more research.

I have 4.11s right now. Be carefull because its a whole new animal with the 4.11s vs. 2.73s. I could leave at least 50ft lines with a posi and the stock 170k mile 305 with timing issues.

 

I have the parts needed to do most things available by themselves. The 13 vane setup is more than just the rotor. The rotor, slide and the back half of the pump had different oil slots than the 10 vane setup. The 10 vane setup works fine, and had no problems with them ever.

 

I used the 13 vane rotor kit that came with the rotor, vanes, and I think it came with rings also. Are you saying that doesn't really make a difference since the pump was originally a 10 vane?

 

Yes, the 13 vane setup will cost more and will not offer any advantages here.