I put this on a few forums for educational and enlightenment.
Fluid was nasty, and the pan in the transmission and the one I drained the fluid into was defiitely dark.
Torque converter. It had exactly 3/16" gap when all the way into the transmission, yet the transmission shop took all that gap out and pulled it all the way to the flexplate, with no washers etc. I think that is BAD, and after searching the internet forever it was true.
One of the cooler lines was already rounded, yeah for me. Its the one closest to the Servo housing, so I had to cut the line (flare it later.).
Converter is painted silver, yes its a Vigilante but they fubarred it up when they did the last transmission build and painted it after they cut it open. It will be shipped back to Precision Industried for a rebuild. YEAH.
The Governer plate wasnt all the way flush with the transmission case. See Pic.
Filter was black.
Before I take it to the shop I am going to try to at least do a pump check with the dial indicator, or do it when I get there. I am going to ask the builder to take pictures of the build, especially on the pump end play. Other than that, I am kinda tired of this crap.
Any suggestions etc for checks etc before going to the shop. The guy I am taking it to is very good, good reputation etc.



I am going to flush the cooler and lines with this, and am more than likley going to get a new cooler. The BeCool radiator has a 7 row internal cooler, if that means anything.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QkLjik51sck

 

I may be reading this wrong but it seems you believe that having a gap between the converter and flex plate with the converter instaled and all the way back is a bad thing.

Infact you NEED a gap between the flexplate and converter before they are bolted together, up to 1/2" is acceptable in fact.

I used to be a trans dyno operator running mostly GM RWD units and got paid for spotting flaws like this. Needless to say I made quite a few bucks off of builders who neglected to measure this clearance... I have also missed atleast one trans with little to no gap and witnessed the destruction wrought uppon the pump by my and the builders mistake.

The flex plate flexes under load and not having enough clearance can drive the converter hub into the pump housing loosing a lot of metal and usualy breaking the pump gearotors them selves.

When you re-instal your trans and have it bolted to the motor slip a finger between the plate and converter flanges, you should be able to slip atleast your pinky between the two... even if you have especialy sausage like fingers.

If the converter and plate touch or have very little clearange remove it and be sure the converter is completely instaled in the trans, you should hear 3 definite clicks as it is instaled. If it hits the plate before the bellhousing and block mate DO NOT force it. You WILL destroy the pump and void any warranty you might have had.


Other than that good luck!

 

Hey, In regards to the gap, what they did was put it all the way in, and with it all the way in it is 3/16". The pulled the converter forward to the flexplate, and from what I understand from Dana and a few others, is the gap you shoot for is .080- .125".
There was no gap as they pulled it forward to the flexplate, eliminating that gap. So they effectively pulled it out of the pump and extra 3/16".

 

If you have 3/16 gap (.187") with the torque converter all of the way into the transmission, then you would want to "reduce" the gap "before" bolting it up to the flex plate. In this case you would want to take out about .090", leaving you with apx. .097" gap. You do this by installing a .090" machined washer at each of the three mounting points. You must have all three washers "exactly" the same in thickness, otherwise you will put the torque converter off center, which could "wipe out" the front pump bushing at a minimum. Optimum gap is .080" - .125". This gives you the most torque converter hub to rotor contact area, which will give you the longest life in terms of wear. Whatever washer you use here, "all three" must be the same in terms of thickness. Dana

 

Thanks Dana, I will go to Fastenal and see if they have any SAE washers that thick, or just ask my machinist to make some out of SS at work.
Thanks again

 

UPDATE: Transmission is in. Did TV cable adjustment with pan off to verify tv movement.
I used the FSM with inch pounds torque wrench. Quite the little procedure. Well, after i did it, the part that pushes the tv valve in was not touching the tv valve( was very very close though), yet at WOT the tv valve is pushed in all the way? Is this good? Or does the tv valve need to have the tv cable bracket hammer to be touching the valve at idle?

 

That is the right way to do it. The bell crank not touching at an idle is ok.

 

That is the right way to do it. The bell crank not touching at an idle is ok, as long as the geometry at the carb or fuel injector is correct.

 

Thanks Dana. The throttle is 100%, and everything goes from idle to WOT without issues.

 

With the exception of putting the pan back on and exhaust, I am stuck here. I have adjusted the TV cable several times yet it sets this far from the plunger. It goes to WOT fine, and the throttle goes to WOT fine, but upon return the tv lever goes out quite far. The plunger is as far out as it can go, so hydraulics wont send it further towards the lever. Can I adjust the TV cable a little out to put the lever at the plunger at idle.
Cant afford to screw this little procedure up.

 

I adjusted it less than an 1/8" to this position, is this good?

 

As long as it is tight at WOT, then you should be ok.

 

Thanks again. I I will fill her up tomorrow and see what happens.

 

UPDATE: Added fluid, 5 quarts, then started engine for 20-30 seconds. Then added 4 more quarts and started engine. Then with brake on I went through all gears and neutral for 30 seconds each and engine got up to 160 degrees.
Went to back out, reverse was good.
But, wont go out of first gear. I idled around the block. Nothing. Its either the fluid hadnt overcome the gel used for assembly, or something is amiss.
I could shift into first, and you can feel it. But I cant manually upshift to second.
In OD, it wont go through the gears.

 

ANyways, took the governor out as this is the first thing the ATSG/FSM tell you to check. Here is mine
How many weights and what color springs are normal? MIne has two total weights and a white and no color spring

And someone elses, with this clip. I dont remember seeing this clip before.

 

I think the clip on the lower governor is for an option within the shift kit to allow manual shifting.

 

That clip needs to be taken out as it is for the "full manual" setup from a 700-2-3. There will be other changes in the valve body if you have this kit installed that will not allow the transmission to work automatically. You will need another valve body "if" these changes have been made here. Do you know what kit was used in here? Do you have any valve body instructions?

 

The clip wasnt installed in my transmission. I read the ATSG/FSM and it stated when you have no 2/3/4th gear, check the governor first. This was one picture I found of another person who just rebuilt his. My governor is fine, and doesnt have that clip.
The next troubleshooting says to check 1-2 shift valve. I am going to call my builder today. I am guessing as most would say it is the TV valve sticking.
Dana the kit was yours, the modified TransGo. I have alll your instructions. I am the guy in Hawaii with the Corvette. Steve

 

Fluid Level checked. Full.
Pressure in Park, 80psi at idle, 175-180 psi at WOT

 

Will talk to you later today on this. Did you add the fluid as we discussed?

 

I ended up adding one quart, for a total of 10 quarts.
With the Vigilante, do you think it needs more? The dipstick is the factory one and is properly secured with the bellhousing bolt as the factory had it.

 

Took pan off, nothing in pan, fluid clean.
I then looked at tv valve, and it easily moves in and out and the little metal tab in the spring that TranGo makes to keep it from sticking was in there.
So, I took the boost valve out as I noticed it was the old one, as far as the part that lies up against the snap ring. Here is what I found, I dont know if it was wrong or what, but this is the order, and parts used in line with the green spring. The other row is parts not used, as they were in the bucket of parts. And notice the long piece where it is ground and the two different reverse boost? valves?

 

ttt