mikeirocz1

iTrader: (1)

I'm trying to to determine what size stall to go with on this engine setup with a 700r4..........

standard 350, not bored.
Comp Cams 292H, 501 lift, 244 duration
Dart Pro 1 Platinum aluminum heads
200cc Intake Ports
64cc Combustion Chambers
2.020" Int/1.600" Exh Valves
1.250'' Valve Springs, 110lbs @ 1.700''
.520" Max Lift
Straight Plugs
Air Gap Intake
Mighty Demon 750 vac secondaries carb.
Harland sharp 1.5 roller rockers


Comp cams said I need at least a 3000 so I was thinking maybe a 3200. I'm running 3.42 gears and someone told me that with that high of a stall I would need to run like a 4.10 to keep from burning up the stall. I don't know much about that?? I'm not running the lockup and a guy I talked to that custom builds the stall's said that I can put a redirect valve in the tranny and he would build me a non lockup converter and it wouldn't burn it up becasue it redirects the fluid to constantly pump through the converter at all times. If I understood him correctly. If I have a lockup converter and don't have the lockup setup, will it harm it. I'm trying to see what, if anything, I need to change to run a non lockup converter instead of the lockup style. I only drive the car on the weekends and some nice days in and around town. It's not a daily driver and I hardley take it on the higheays.

skirkland1980

iTrader: (2)

the rpm a converter actually stalls depends on a couple of things like horsepower, weight of the car... are you buying from "r.e.d.n.ec.k performance" on ebay? if so he makes good converters. i have one in my drag car. if not you may want to consider. he has a good converter and a decent price. a 3000 would be my choice.

AlkyIROC

I've already told you that the camshaft wants a 3000 stall for street/strip and 3500 for full race. The rest of the components you use on the engine or car can be whatever you want but you won't get the best performance out of them unless they're matched to the powerband of the engine. You could put 2.73 gears in the diff and you can still drive around with them but they won't be the best choice for the engine's powerband.

The camshaft defines the powerband. The converter stall gets the engine up into the powerband as quick as possible. Deeper gears get the car moving quicker to allow the engine to get into a higher powerband where it makes the most power.

Driving around at less than the stall speed means the converter needs to slip more. Converter slip creates a lot of heat. Heat kills transmissions. Any stall speed higher than stock requires a large tranny cooler to keep the temperature low.

I doubt your 700R4 will survive for very long behind that engine.

skirkland1980

iTrader: (2)

i would get a trans temp gauge.

Apeiron

A gauge doesn't make your transmission run any cooler.

skirkland1980

iTrader: (2)

thanks. may i should go back to shadetree school....genius!!!!

fast82z

iTrader: (1)

I would keep the lock-up function. As soon as you lock the converter, the stall no longer matters as it's basically a clutch holding at that time. You could have the converter lock as early as 35mph even, so you'd basically have no chance of burning up from heat made by the converter. As for stall, 3500rpm would be my choice.

Also, if that 700r4 is basically stock, it's a ticking time bomb. If it's built well, then it will have no problem holding up to the power you'll be making.

mikeirocz1

iTrader: (1)

has anyone heard a putting in a redirect valve if not using the lockup?

Apeiron

You can do it to get full flow to the cooler without being locked up, but the converter's still going to be slipping, and the fluid's still going to be getting hot.

mikeirocz1

iTrader: (1)

What's the best lock-up kit to use? There's no computer, just carbed motor. Is there a kit where I can hook it up and not have to worry about engaging and disengaging with a switch? One that will do it automatically? I have the lock-up on a switch now, but I don't use it because I don't want to turn it on and off everytime I slow down and get cruising. So basically, If you run a lock-up converter without using the lockup you will burn up the converter? What happens if you run a non-lockup converter and try locking it up??

skirkland1980

iTrader: (2)

you can wire it to your brake switch. your tranny should have a 4th gear pressure switch on the valve body that only allows it to lock in 4th.

Apeiron

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...c-control.html

If you run a lock-up converter without the lockup, you shorten the transmission's lifespan, sometimes dramatically.

Nothing, there's no clutch to lock up.