Well, unfortunately, giving in to my desire to drive the 'bird on a nice day didn't quite end up as pleasant as I was expecting! There appears to be a new drive-ability issue that I'm thinking is either shifter, transmission, or rear end related.

I have a Hurst Billet-plus shifter installed on my T-5. For the past month or so, it hasn't had any issues. Today, the shifter seemed a bit stubborn and resistant about moving into 1st gear when I fired up, but I thought little of it. 5 minutes or so later, at a turn light, the damn thing wouldn't move up to 1st (or any other gear), and I nearly got stuck! I managed to pull over near a freeway ramp, and stopped the car. As I was trying to restart it in 1st, the car kept trying to move forward, but would not start. I tried starting it in neutral with success.

Later on, it started acting up again! (with me nearly getting stuck again) but it seemed like it would behave a little better if I laid off the clutch pedal, and coasted to stops in neutral. I managed to get it home, thankfully! But what could be causing this? If it's the T-5 going out on me, this thing may sadly have to sit for awhile, since I'm eventually doing an LT-1/T-56 swap anyway. All help appreciated!

P.S: I had no issues whatsoever at cruising speeds on the highway.

 

Seems clutch-related to me. First check if there's enough fluid in the little reservoir. If so, maybe need to bleed it. If that doesn't solve it, probably time for a new clutch.

 

Alright, so much research I did in the meantime on the matter has led to me definitely agree with you on that point. The symptoms I'm having match those of clutch, and or problems w/the hydraulic system.

I took a peek under the hood and it looks as if there are two little reservoirs inside the hydraulic system? (is one for brakes, and the other for the clutch system?) One of them looked as though it was filled up well, and the other looked pretty low, around the MIN mark. I don't have any fluid to add to it tonight, but I can pick some up tomorrow.

So assuming that adding fluid does not correct the problem, how lengthy/demanding of a process is bleeding the clutch? What if I have a bad master or slave cylinder? Could the clutch be bad even though it works perfectly fine otherwise?

Also, somewhat related. I normally don't hear any strange sounds switching into gears, but when it was being difficult on me yesterday, I'd hear a minor clunk going into reverse. I read that this could be drive shaft related? all help/elaboration is appreciated!

P.S: Since this is my first project car, and I'm still learning things about how everything works, you'll have to forgive me for any n00bish things I say

 

Yes.
As for bleeding the clutch hydraulics, I've never had success doing it myself. It's one of very few things that I just pay for. I know this one older guy at the local Firestone store, he does a great job of it. Try to find someone with a good reputation. this guy comes to my house after he gets off work, he charges $40, and it takes him under an hour.

 

Well, I'll have to hope that's what it is!

I must now also ask (even though I'm guessing it's much more difficult than bleeding the clutch), is changing a clutch an easier process in RWD car than a FWD one? I've never attempted a clutch change myself, but if the clutch itself is bad, and I find myself resorting to a shop to do it, the car may have to sit for awhile :/

I ask because my current daily driver/car I may trade for a truck soon could probably use a new clutch, and I may need to attend to that soon. Between that, and wanting to do a T-56 swap down the road w/the 'bird anyway, I'm debating spending big bucks on labor for a T-5 clutch when I'm just gonna take out the T-5 (since I basically have to once the 305 goes bye-bye in favor of an L98 or LT-1, lol).

 

Doing the clutch for a T5 is far easier than any FWD car. Just pull the distributor cap, then pull the trans, do the clutch job, reinstall the trans, re-cap the dizzy, and drive away.
Holding off makes sense. Any interest in trading ported Vortec heads for your T5?

 

Bleeding a T5 clutch is easy. All you need to do it raise the front end, and unbolt the slave cylinder from the bellhousing. Make sure the fluid reservoir is full first. Then slowly press in the plunger and release a few times. Mine usually takes about 3 pushes.

It does sound like your problem is with the clutch. Thats exactly how mine acted when I had a leak in the line from the master to the slave cylinder.

I would check for leaks and try bleeding the clutch system. If that fixes it, I wouldn't worry about the clutch. If not, then it probably would make more sense to wait till you could do the swap.

 

Thanks guys! best I'm probably gonna be able to do 'til the weekend (when I have time) is check for leaks.

Atilla, normally I would be interested, but unfortunately I have emission laws to work around where I live, and I'm not entirely sure what motor I'm going w/yet, but it's looking like an LT-1. The T-5 stays until I can swap everything (just in the interest of at least being able to drive the car).

 

Well, I got to take a better look under the hood today, and looks like one of the reservoirs for the clutch fluid was pretty damn low! (heh, whoops! *feels embarrassed*). Didn't see or smell or otherwise notice anything that might indicate a leak *knocks on wood*.

There are still a couple of questions I have before I go ahead and top it off, since I need to go buy the fluid. I don't have a copy of the owners manual for the car, so I need to know, why is there a "split" w/2 reservoirs where I checked? Is one for brakes, and the other clutch fluid? Also, what type of fluid should I buy? I hear most cars use DOT 3 or 4, and that the ratings are indicative of the fluid's heat resistance level. Just making sure I don't pour the wrong stuff in! thanks!

 

You are looking at the Brake Reservoir. the clutch reservoir is closer to the firewall and has a round screw cap on it, should be next to the brake booster
,
In the above picture, it is next to the brake reservoir and has the white cap on it.
DOT3 brake fluid is what I use.

Also, inspect the slave cylinder on the side of the transmission bellhousing. the plastic ones are notorious for snapping at the mounting taps.
I've had them break on my 86 and on my 88.