I need to drop the tranny. I see I need to get some slack from the hydraulic line on my 98+T56, I'm guessing (and I don't like to guess) that I need to disconnect the linkage at the pedal and then also take the reservoir down ??
Can I keep the line within the engine bay and have it dangling underneath the car ready for reattachment and reattach the line without inducing any air?

The 98+ (LS style) T56's have a quick (dis)connect fitting right where the line goes into the bell housing. You can disconnect it there and not get any air into the system.

Really??, that's encouraging. I saw on the other one there's this 1/4 in long toothpick size diameter rod that seems to hold it in within the grooved flange on the male line end. Do I just need to grab a hold of it via wrench and pull till it pops. Is it one of those slide back mechanisms.
Another ques. I can leave the bellhousing attached to the engine and just drop/slide back the main part right? I'm stuggling to see how I can possibly get to the top dead center bolt on the bellhousing to engine. I'm having a time and a half trying to get the uppermost right and left hand bolts that are holding tran to bellhousing. I feel I at least have a chance at those. I have every extension length, swivel and I heard the tape trick on the swivel. I only have two hours into one bolt. Just keep at it???

The top port is the bleeder, the bottom is the quick-connect. The line should just push in and then pop out.

Yes you can leave the bellhousing on the motor, that is the most common way to R&R manual transmissions. You'll need a clutch alignment tool to reinstall if the presure plate loses grip on the disc.

Top passenger remains. What the heck is that air tube for? Its clipped onto that bolt hole and is blocking it perfectly.

thanks again Mike. I thought it would have to separate at the far pointy end. I'll try the push pull before having at that last bolt.
daylights ending soon
Can i cut that air tube thingy

You shouldn't.. It should pull off the trans side if you can't get the bolt out. It's a vent to kept any pressure stable.. The fluid will leak out of the tube if cracked or missing..

There's nothin quick about that connector. I've pushed and pulled a thousand times probably. And that is the one that is off the car where I can apply more force to it. How far should it push in? All I get is about a 1/2 a cm maybe. I've also turned and twisted every way imaginable. Do you have a picture of the other end so I can see the locking mechanism?
You have my eternal thanks.. again

Alright, finally got it. thanks again Mike.
For all those that might need to do this in the future and have some difficulty. The key is pushing the plastic thin ring up into the connector maybe an eighth of an inch with two flat head screwdrivers simultaneously. Then you should feel something give, then keep pressure on one screwdriver and use the now free hand to pull it from the connector.
I have seen this plastic ring cracked on one, and completely missing on another. If you don't see this plastic ring you might as well be trying to go up a creek without a paddle