I just got done installing my T56. I did put in new carbon blocking rings, fork pads, billet keys, and a new input shaft. The rest has 60,000 miles or so on it from what i was told.

The clutch setup is a new (autozone cheapo) flywheel, a new pressure plate (I think. The surface looked new but it looked like a throwout bearing had been pressed up against it before.) and a Spec 3+ disc that has been used before but for an unknow number of miles. I could tell it has been used but the thickness is still nearly the same as a new disc.

Do I need to drive it easy for a while, or since all the gears except the input shaft are original and the disc is used, can I go on ahead and see what its really like? I've already gotten on it hard while rolling, but shifted very easly and slowly and have not gotten on it at all from a stand still.

I also have a vibration between 2800 rpm and about 4000 rpm. After that it is a fast enough vibration that you dont really feel it. It does it even with the trans in gear and the clutch in so its not in the trans. Its in the clutch/flywheel. I do have solid motor mounts so this makes me feel everything even that much more. Should I worry about this or not really?

 

The breakin procedure I give out is:


1. Put 4 qts of inexpensive, but good quality ATF (Auto Transmission Fluid) (non-synthetic DexronIII) into the transmission. Pour in through shifter mount. You can use the fill plug on the side of the transmission also (after all, that's what it's for!). It's just easier to pour it in from the top if you can.

2. Normal driving for 500 miles is required for break-in. Please make this as much stop and go as possible. No down-shifting for the first 500 miles. Dynoing the vehicle is fine during break in. (The assembly-lube used in the rebuild process will dissolve into the ATF at fluid temps above 140deg, which normal stop and go driving should obtain after a continuous 30mile drive)

3. After 500-700 miles, drain the ATF, and put in 4QTS of GM Synchromax (p/n 12345349) or Mobil 1 ATF will be fine. You can purchase both at your local parts store or dealerships.

4. Fluid should be changed every 10,000 miles and synchromesh based is only to be used if the vehicle is not driven more than 100 miles per week. If more than that is driven, the fluid should be changed every 20,000 miles or as needed.
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The new blocker rings are just like little clutches, so you don't want to beat on them right away. Let them break in gently, and not downshifting is one of the big no-no's..

BTW, I've heard of countless horror stories of Autozone,etc. clutch setups vibrating...

 

Thanks for the info. Your the guy I was hoping to hear from (no offense everyone else ) 500 miles is going to take forever considering the last 3 years I've put 420 miles on it. I guess its time to stop working on it and drive it.