Manual Clutch
Manual Clutch
So I am setting up a 5 speed in my 82 auto trans am and I am just curious on how to set in the z bar. I know it goes to the block on a pivot ball but were does it bolt up other than that?
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 312
Likes: 44
From: ct
Car: 84 Trans Am
Engine: Turbo 301
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Manual Clutch
The other end bolts to a bracket you'll need to find that bolts to the frame.You've got a rare set-up with that mech. clutch linkage. Interested in selling it? Do you also have the pedals and linkage? Good luck with it. I hope you get it to work.
Re: Manual Clutch
No proly not gonna sell it. But as far as the bracket I think I might have it because the Zbar I have has a small bracket that is attached by a small nut and stud that is hooked to the Zbar. Is this the bracket that goes to the frame? If so where exactly ? I know I keep nagging at this but I just wanna get it together thanks again.
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
Likes: 4
From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Re: Manual Clutch
The other part of the Z-bar bolts to the frame directly below the brake booster. Right up tight to the firewall. IIRC?
It's garbage though, think about it, when the engine moves (torque's to one side) it gets HARD to shift. Plus the z-bar is always ratchety, and tends to slip the pedal and BOUNCE you into gear.
Once I figured out I could replace my z-bar setup with a hydraulic TO bearing, and a basic Wilwood master cylinder (and a simple home made bell crank setup), my shifting woes completely went away. I highly recommend using a hydraulic setup rather than a manual setup.
It's garbage though, think about it, when the engine moves (torque's to one side) it gets HARD to shift. Plus the z-bar is always ratchety, and tends to slip the pedal and BOUNCE you into gear.
Once I figured out I could replace my z-bar setup with a hydraulic TO bearing, and a basic Wilwood master cylinder (and a simple home made bell crank setup), my shifting woes completely went away. I highly recommend using a hydraulic setup rather than a manual setup.
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iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 295
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From: Hopatcong, Nj
Car: 1986 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: BW t5 W/ short shifter
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 3.27 posi
Re: Manual Clutch
i have been running a z-bar setup in my 86 for 6 years now, two different motors and transmissions. i say keep it. i personally like the feel of it better. I have new engine mounts and i have never had a problem with torque interfering with the clutch operation even with a 350 that had almost 400 ft lbs. but to each his own
anyways. there are two holes below the brake master cylinder that most likely need to be tapped. i dont remember the pitch or thread size but its the same as the intake bolts. its not too hard to do. one thing tho, it is a real pain in the *** to get the bar on the fork and petal assembly. a lift is a big big help because it will require some muscle to get the bar in the clutch fork.
anyways. there are two holes below the brake master cylinder that most likely need to be tapped. i dont remember the pitch or thread size but its the same as the intake bolts. its not too hard to do. one thing tho, it is a real pain in the *** to get the bar on the fork and petal assembly. a lift is a big big help because it will require some muscle to get the bar in the clutch fork.
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 389
Likes: 0
From: Summerland, B.C
Car: 1982 Trans am
Engine: 383
Transmission: AGE M22Z
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" 3.70 detroit locker
Re: Manual Clutch
The other part of the Z-bar bolts to the frame directly below the brake booster. Right up tight to the firewall. IIRC?
It's garbage though, think about it, when the engine moves (torque's to one side) it gets HARD to shift. Plus the z-bar is always ratchety, and tends to slip the pedal and BOUNCE you into gear.
Once I figured out I could replace my z-bar setup with a hydraulic TO bearing, and a basic Wilwood master cylinder (and a simple home made bell crank setup), my shifting woes completely went away. I highly recommend using a hydraulic setup rather than a manual setup.
It's garbage though, think about it, when the engine moves (torque's to one side) it gets HARD to shift. Plus the z-bar is always ratchety, and tends to slip the pedal and BOUNCE you into gear.
Once I figured out I could replace my z-bar setup with a hydraulic TO bearing, and a basic Wilwood master cylinder (and a simple home made bell crank setup), my shifting woes completely went away. I highly recommend using a hydraulic setup rather than a manual setup.
Re: Manual Clutch
Yeah Im just going to run the manual setup and gonna start putting putting it together here soon. Anyone got any pics of the Zbar setup they have in there thirdgen. Im seting this up in a 82 trans am if thats any different from the camaros but Ive always thought its the same either car anyway. Thanks guys
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iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 295
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From: Hopatcong, Nj
Car: 1986 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: BW t5 W/ short shifter
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 3.27 posi
Re: Manual Clutch
yeah the frame on the firebirds/camaros are the same thing. ill try to snap some pics of mine tonight. well from what i can see of it.
the z-bar does not attach to the master cylinder at all. not even close. its mounted to the frame rail directly under it, next to the steering shaft.
the z-bar does not attach to the master cylinder at all. not even close. its mounted to the frame rail directly under it, next to the steering shaft.
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