Here's my order from Summit, I ordered 2 of each crush sleeve because I'm not sure which one I'll be needing for the install.
....oops I forgot to add my brass hammer.



I'll be ordering soon after I get paid in the next week or two, and was wondering if there is anything I am missing. I'm sticking with the 10-bolt, bolt-in LCARBs ordered already, and I got the spacer just in case the crappy auburn unit is shot. I can get a 3 series later, or just find another 2.

Once the parts are here, I will be closely following the gear swap thread here:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...axle-gear.html

Only other thing I am worried about, is the length e-brake cable I will need. Looking at this thread, I have found that there are two different sizes available.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/brak...r-e-brake.html

1434 mm - CarQuest (P/N BRK 8788, 1st design) ( I need this if I have an adjustable cable? )
1460 mm - in 91 and 92 ( I am guessing this is the one I need if I have non-adjustable? )

Thanks for helping guys

 

Forget about the stooooopid crush sleeves and get this instead.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RAT-4111/

It allows you to take it apart and put it back together as many times as you want; AND, best of all, you can tighten the nut until it SCREAMS FOR MERCY, instead of having to stop when the preload is right.

To use it, stack the spacer on top of the gear, then all the shims; put the tail bearing, joke, & nut on; measure the end play; and take out that much shim. Keep reducing the shim pack until you get the preload you want. Odds are, you won't hit it exactly; it'll be too low, then the next least amount you can put in, it'll be too much. Go with the "too much preload" setting. Do all your preload testing WITHOUT the seal installed.

Also get an extra pair of pinion bearings, and hone them out with a brake cyl hone until they slip on and off the pinion easily, and use those for your trial-and-error setup steps; then press your un-honed ones on AFTER you've got the setup right. Although, out of ALL the 10-bolts I've ever built (a handful), NOT ONE ever ended up with anything other than a .035" shim in it. So .... yeah. I don't even bother checking that any more, I just stick a new .035" in it and move on. At the very end, final assembly, put the tail bearing in the race, put the seal in, and use a piece of 2x4 or something flat up against it, and with one mighty whap of your BFH, bonk it in. DO NOT attempt to tap it in around the edge!!! If you do that it will leak, 100% ironclad guraranteed EVERY TIME.

You don't really need the marking compound, some comes in the Ratech kit.

You'll need to make yourself a tool like this one.



About a 3' piece of ¼" x 1¼" strip stock from the #20, #27, or #48 store and a 25/64" drill is all it takes.

 

Thank you sofa, your post was very informative. I'll ditch the crush sleeves lol.
I haven't messed with a rear end since I Was in school a few years ago, will i certainly need a press for the bearings?