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When to rebuild a T56

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Old Apr 27, 2012 | 01:01 AM
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From: Macon, GA
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: Vortec headed 355, xe262
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt 3.70
When to rebuild a T56

So every once in a while, I get an awful notchy feeling going into second gear, especially when it's cold. I dont hear any grinds, but I feel a click click click in the shifter after it slots into place.

Im guessing the 2nd gear synchro is slowly(quickly?) destroying itself. It doesnt do it often, but it seems like it's done it a little more lately than it used to...

So should I take it out and rebuild it as soon as I can? Is it a non issue until it makes bad noises?

It seems to go into gear fine once it's warm, and if I shift it hard/quickly, it seems to go in just fine. It's just when it's cold I can feel something slipping in there, so I've been pretty gentle with it lately, but I was wondering if I should start setting money aside to do it ASAP or not.
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Old Apr 27, 2012 | 01:34 PM
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From: Aridzona
Car: `86 SS / `87 SS
Engine: L69 w/ TPI on top / 305 4bbl
Transmission: `95 T56 \ `88 200-4R
Re: When to rebuild a T56

An F-body refresh (blocker rings, seals, stock keys) is < $300 if you do it yourself, assuming no other damage.

A new second gear and 1-2 synchro (not including "refresh" parts) is over $300 since recent price increases.

Second is pretty commonly "beat on" so yeah I'd consider pulling it and checking things out.

Drop me a line before ordering parts; I might have some new spare parts you could use.
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Old Apr 27, 2012 | 01:54 PM
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From: Macon, GA
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: Vortec headed 355, xe262
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt 3.70
Re: When to rebuild a T56

Originally Posted by jmd
An F-body refresh (blocker rings, seals, stock keys) is < $300 if you do it yourself, assuming no other damage.

A new second gear and 1-2 synchro (not including "refresh" parts) is over $300 since recent price increases.

Second is pretty commonly "beat on" so yeah I'd consider pulling it and checking things out.

Drop me a line before ordering parts; I might have some new spare parts you could use.
It otherwise works great aside from reverse being a bit annoying sometimes where it's not in gear but it feels like it is. I hear this is common. So I would hope nothing else is damaged...

HOWEVER, there's always been a very distinct whine coming from it that increases with speed, so Im thinking there's probably some bad bearings in there somewhere. I figure if I get it apart I will try to get by just rpelacing the damaged ones, but if they're all fubar'd I will probably just bite the bullet and get the whole bearing kit.

The thing that bothers me is thegearbox.org has the $300 kit, but it doesnt include a steel 3-4 shift fork which I think would be a worthwhile upgrade. Tick only has a "Level 2" kit, which includes the shift fork and a bunch of stuff, but I dont think I need it. I doubt I will ever be putting more than 450 ft/lbs through it. And since I figure I will need at least some of the bearings, the bearing kit is another $200 beyond the $600 they want for the kit, and they will just rebuild the whole thing for me for $1000 including shipping.

I'm thinking with the money crunch Im in, I will just have to suck it up and pull it apart myself, and only replace the 1-2 synchros and whatever bearings are there and leave it alone. Is this the 1-2 synchro setup I need?

http://www.tickperformance.com/treme...y-cobra-viper/

And is that included with the basic kits? Seems like the basic kit being $300, and the 1-2 synchro assembly being $140... it doesnt really make all that much sense to me?

What special tools do I need to pull this off? I know I need to make a goofy gear puller contraption using a pair of 3 jaw pullers, but that's not too awful. I have a dial indicator, but Ive never really messed with a gearbox beyond playing around with the transmission in my old 2 stroke dirtbike a little bit when I had it apart.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kent-Moore-B...8088%26ps%3D54

That seemed interesting, but not sure how necessary any of it is.

Last edited by InfernalVortex; Apr 27, 2012 at 02:00 PM.
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Old Apr 27, 2012 | 04:11 PM
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Car: 85 Trans Am
Engine: 98 Vortec 350 LT1 Cam w/ TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3:27
Re: When to rebuild a T56

Hard parts like the synchronizer assembly are not included in any kits other than the stage 2 kits which go for like $600. The basic kits usually only have the blocker/syncro rings themselves.
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Old Apr 27, 2012 | 04:51 PM
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From: Macon, GA
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: Vortec headed 355, xe262
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt 3.70
Re: When to rebuild a T56

Originally Posted by LilSki
Hard parts like the synchronizer assembly are not included in any kits other than the stage 2 kits which go for like $600. The basic kits usually only have the blocker/syncro rings themselves.
So when I have worn synchros.. is it the synchros themselves that are damaged, or the block and synchro rings? Or is it "it just depends"?
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Old Apr 27, 2012 | 05:01 PM
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Car: 85 Trans Am
Engine: 98 Vortec 350 LT1 Cam w/ TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3:27
Re: When to rebuild a T56

It all depends. Usually the syncros go first as they take the biggest beating. But really you have to open up the tranny first to really find out what you need. everything could be mint and all you need is one second gear syncro ring.
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Old Apr 27, 2012 | 07:20 PM
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From: Aridzona
Car: `86 SS / `87 SS
Engine: L69 w/ TPI on top / 305 4bbl
Transmission: `95 T56 \ `88 200-4R
Re: When to rebuild a T56

The teeth of the synchro which mesh with the teeth of the gear (and not the gear teeth that mesh with the opposing gear) are the areas that get chewed up with missed shifts / abuse. The carbon facing of the blocker rings is thin so it doesn't always look worn out (It's not as easily seen as brake pads, for example.) The blocker rings are "I don't want to open it up again, let's replace them all." So yes, it just depends.

And yes, disassembly is step 1, ordering parts comes later.

The keys in the 1-2 synchro can become deformed (they're stamped steel in the Viper/F-body stock) and can be upgraded to billet pieces. On that note, theGearBox.org has a Stage 2 that includes those (good idea) and bronze shifter bushing (a properly adhered stock one is fine) for an overall better deal. Call them or email them to see what's backordered (or if their web needs updated) on that one.
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Old Apr 27, 2012 | 10:20 PM
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From: Macon, GA
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: Vortec headed 355, xe262
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt 3.70
Re: When to rebuild a T56

Thanks for all the help guys!

Any tools I should make a point to grab before I dig into it? Im hoping I iwll be able to do it this summer, but just depends on how busy I am with college.
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Old Apr 27, 2012 | 10:27 PM
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Car: 85 Trans Am
Engine: 98 Vortec 350 LT1 Cam w/ TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3:27
Re: When to rebuild a T56

Snap ring pliers are important. You will need access to a press as well as get or make a puller to pull 5th and 6th gear off the main shaft. I dial indicator is also very important.
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