OK i got a clutch issue I need a hand figuring out as its driving me nuts and its the only thing stopping me to driving my car besides getting a tune for it. I will try to explain this as best as I can to everyone

Bought the shell awhile back from another TGO member and it had a LS1 T56 swap in it. He ran it and everything was fine.

I got my set up in it LSX T56 and for some reason the clutch doesnt want to engage or disengage really at all. It will slightly go into gear but not enough to be fully in or release it when I start in fully in gear.

I noticed my clutch pedal sits an inch to an inch and a half closer to the firewall and not straight across level with the brake pedal. Is this the way its suppose to be as I have never ever seen a car like this at all.

I have the same pedals in the car the previous owner had which are 4th gen. I know you are suppose to mod them and I assumed he did that but I guess he had a adjustable master.

I figured it was just the travel of the pedal is the issue in the engaging and disengaging of the pedal

So I went and got 3rd gen pedals as why not Ill mod the 4th gen ones down the road and swap them in at a later date or over the winter. no big deal. Well guess what. Whne I swapped the 3rd gen ones in it was the same thing

1 - Im thinkin is there a difference in master rod lenghts over the years or between vettes and F-bodies?

2 - Has anyone come across this issue?

3 - any ideas as to remedy the issue. As the next step to fixing it for me is to buy all new hydralics to eliminate everything

heres a pic of the pedals below. I know its bad but it was 3am when I took it and I was beat from putting the pedals in and out for 4 hours

If you need anymore info just let me know as I need this figured out ASAP

Thanks Guys

 

anyone got a idea at all? Im wondering if the vette and F body masters are different as I if they are I might have a Vette one in my car

 

Anyone want to take a stab at what the issue could be?? Im open to anything now as I would like to avoid getting all the parts again as it will be costly

 

You don't have a vette master cylinder.
Yes, it's possible the mounting hole was located poorly and an adjustable master would help the height.
Did you measure the slave cylinder compressed height and the pressure plate diaphragm finger height to determine the air gap, so the slave could be shimmed accordingly?
Bleed the clutch history?

 

I never measured the slave cylinder compression height or the pressure plate diaphram. Never knew the slave would have to be shimmed as I have never done that before. Is there any site with that info in it so I can see how to do it. The clutch as been bled numerous times with about 4 liters put thru it but I might try once more. Im just avoiding pulling the tranny if I dont have to but it looks like I will be pulling it

 

Barely crack the bleeder
Put a 90 degree spark plug over it.
Take the lid off the reservoir.
Run hose from that into the reservoir, pointed down, held in place with a binder clip or something.
Pump the pedal for a while.
Close the bleeder.
That will guarantee air is out. It's my way of doing it on the LS_ stuff.

If it's still not working,
drop the trans.
Barely open the bleeder.
Depress the TO bearing fully; fluid will come out the bleeder.
Measure TO brg. face to front of trans. face. ( A )
Measure bellhousing face to top of PP fingers ( B )
B - A = ? Check with the clutch mfgr. as to their recommend shim amount based on that.
Shims bolt in behind the slave.

 

Ok I will try that out for sure as i hope it might just be a air issue still as I heard they are a real bitch to bleed

 

I have 3rd gen pedals, but my clutch pedal sits higher than the brake. About the same amount that the brake sits above the gas pedal.

 

They're easy if you recirculate the fluid like described above.
Update us later.

 

I didnt get time to work on the car as its an hour away at a shop i rent. Had to spend time with my father inlaw as his sons couldnt make it out to see him. Didnt want to leave him alone. I ended up getting a deal on a brand new tick from a guy on LS1Tech so Im gonna swap that in at the same time. I will keep everyone posted for sure tho. Im dyin to lay a nice strip on the road infront of my shop at 3am LOL

 

It was the master as the distance of travel wasnt enough. I bought a Tick Master adjustable and everything is good now and man what a difference it is having one of those in is. Way more feel than a stock piece