I have a steel bellhousing not for a thirdgen. I drilled and welded square nuts for the thirdgen 'rotated' pattern.

I didn't quite get the angle right, i'm off a few degrees, and as a result I need to shim my cross member.

Now thats not a problem, but I'd like to try and get my tailshaft height as close to possible from stock, so when I dial in my rear end (adjustable) I can get the pinion angles correct easier.

So I was wondering if someone with a t5 could measure for me the distance from the floor plan (on the inner side of the shifter hole) to the top of the trans tailshaft? I'm starting around 2 1/8" but I could be a half inch or more off in either direction.

See attached picture for rough idea of how I measured it. Shown measurement is not exact because I needed two hands to old the tape straight but you get the idea.

Thanks!

-- Joe

 

Guys, you don't need a T5 to help with this. I would, but mine is at the painter's. Anyone with the driveshaft out just measure from the tunnel to the center of the output shaft.

 

How's this sound?

From the crossmember to that point in the floor, I got 7.5"

Then on a T5 sitting on the bench, if I put a straight edge on the mount block, to the top I get 6"

So I guess the 'factory' height should be 1.5" from the floor, so I guess I'll set that as a starting point.

I have to make a crossmember (dual 3" y-pipe/longtubes) and I want to make it so I can shim the pinion angle up or down without being out like INCHES to begin with. Plus, as I mentioned before, my trans is a couple degrees off in rotation because I ran out of surface to drill on the scattershield. Apparently on the thirdgen scattershields they bump out just a hair at 2 o'clock. The scattershield I have is generic SBC, didn't have the rotated pattern drilled, nor does it have the hydraulic slave mount so I'm running a Howe hydraulic TOB.

-- Joe

 

I used the dual pattern housing but your approach should work just fine. Besides, you have the standard pattern if you ever want to go with a TKO or something. My t5's just didn't hold up in the long run. I would like to know how the slave/throw out bearing works. I used the factory slave and had a problem with 1 paticular clutch set not having enough stroke to fully disengage. I had to make my master adjustable to get enough stroke. I have since changed both the clutch and master and now my clutch pedal is too high. Guess I will have to pull this master and make it adjustable too. The direct oposite problem... Weird huh? I wonder how the slave/tb will work out as far as your pedal height.

 

Hrmm. I'm using the HOWE bearing, and I calculated and I should have .473" of stroke on the diaphram.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...ster-bore.html

Assuming the numbers are right on the clutch master.

I'll report back once I have the car up and running.

-- Joe