minipower

Hello guyz and Galz

I am having a problem with my 700R4.. I should start from the beginning to make sure I get my problem understood...

I am by no means a Mechanic or know how to work on cars..

I have have a 1989 Toyota pickup which had a 22RE 4 banger and an automatic trans.. Not going into what happened to it, I will tell you I replaced the engine and trans with a chevy 4.3 running a 700R4 behind it.

Now I did this engine and trans change about 7 yrs. ago and luv it.. I have more power and better gas mileage..

Now about 4 - 5 yrs ago I parked the truck and left it sitting in my backyard, and about 2 yrs. ago I changed the rearend with a V6 model and added more stock leaf springs to help the saggy rearend, which made me have to get the Driveshaft shortened, and in doing that, I of course lossed some trans fluid.

Another problem I had was the power steering pump started leaking real bad so I changed it with another I had sitting around. But as I was getting the power steering pump all worked out and getting the air out of the system I had the truck in park running, for about 10 - 15 mins at a time and about 4 times.

So brings me to the problem I am having now.. I got my truck out of the backyard and got it ready to use again, and when I took it for a test drive the truck would shift from 1 - 2 no problem - like it should, but when it shifts from 2 -3 it would act like I put it in neutral - Freewheel - .

Now when I changed the driveshaft I lost 2 quarts of ATF and didnt replace it, and when I got the power steering pump installed and ran the truck to remove the air from the system, I ran it without replacing the lost 2 quarts of ATF.

So is it possible I fried the 3 - 4 clutch pack just by running it 2 quarts low or do you think I have a sticking valve - servo - or bad switch ?
I did put the truck on jackstands and tried to run it through the gears to try and fix it, buy it still losses 3rd gear

Oh and I drove the first test drive without adding the 2 quarts of ATF, then I added the ATF to bring it up to full and the tranny did the same thing.

Also I have the lock-up wired up with a push button on the dash and 1 wire going to the trans... I luv having control of the O/D and all the gear ratio's it lets me play with.

minipower

I pulled the pan and didn't notice anything out of the ordinary..
Anybody have a list parts and order of what I should check before I crack open the front pump and pull the guts out.

At worst a webpage of what the parts are and what they do would be awesome. like this animation of how the servo works.
700R4 / 4L60E Animated Servo Operation

It really aloud me to fully understand what the servo does..

skirkland1980

iTrader: (2)

You can do a line pressure test. It will help you determine if the problem is hydraulic or mechanical.

skirkland1980

iTrader: (2)

You don't really want to just dive in to a 700r4 without the right tools. There are teflon seals that require special tools to install.

minipower

I dropped the 2-4 accumulator and the spring between the plate and piston is broke in half..
Could that be why the tranny acts like it's in neutral when it is suppose to shift into 3RD ¿?¿

I am under the impression I can't hook up a pressure gauge, since it is a newer 700r4 tranny, without the pressure port taps on the side of the tranny

skirkland1980

iTrader: (2)

I don't think the spring is the problem. You can pull all the valves in the valve body and see if any are stuck. Hopefully its not a blown 3-4 piston seal.

minipower

I finally found a tranny book for this tranny - it shows me the hydraulic paths " flow chart " so O can follow where the fluid starts and what parts it goes through, and where the shift valves on the valvebody are, I will blow air into the exhaust ports on them and listen for the packs engaging.

minipower

Can I use air to check the tranny with the valve body still attached ¿ if so, what ports will I use the air gun to check if the clutch packs are engaging or not.. I used air in the fluid exhaust ports on the valve body and ATF came oozing out of other places - is that normal ¿

Also with the 1-2 accum. off and the separator plate still attached -- I see a check ball lying in a hole in the separator plate.. I can not pull the check ball out since ,the ball is to big --- but I can stick something in there and move the ball around

minipower

Isn't the 3-4 accum. check ball suppose to be held in place..as in the capsule with check ball..

So with my 3-4 accum. check ball out of the capsule..it is moving freely in the 3-4 accum and not doing it's job..the check ball can not stop fluid flow because the check ball is not in place in the capsule

minipower

I put the tranny back together after someone on another forum showed me all the check ball locations on the valve body side and case side. The check ball that I thought was rolling around in my 3-4 accum, was nothing, It was in the place it should have been. I jumped the gun on that one, with the quick look I did, I jumped to the wrong conclusion.

But moving on, I put the tranny back together and added a bottle of lucas trans fix, The thick red stuff, to give the tranny a better shot if working.

I wasn't able to get the tranny to stop acting like it was in neutral for the 2-3 shift. So the 3-4 clutch pack in gone.

I started looking for another used tranny, but have not been able to find one, so I will replace the fibers and steels in the 3-4 clutch pack.

Does anyone know where a 3-4 cluch pack kit is being sold for around $50.00 ??
Also since the tranny worked when I parked it, and didn't years later. What areas in the tranny should I look at, so I can make sure to fix it.

I am leaning toward the Borg-Warner Hi-Energy clutches and thick steels, The thick steels seems to help the tranny with the heat problems.

Do you think I should replace the broken spring in the 1-2 accum. or is it OK to leave the broken spring in??

minipower

I have been looking for a place to buy the Clutch and Steels to fix my 3-4 clutch pack.
Pro-Built Automatics -- https://www.700r4l60e.com/store/prod...&cat=52&page=1 -- Has a 3-4 clutch kit, that uses the Borg-Warner Clutchs and thick steels. But they do not answer the phone or emails.

CT Powertrain Products -- http://www.ctpowertrain.com/servlet/...0E-ALTO/Detail -- also has a kit, but it has Alto clutch's and " I think " thinner steels

Transmission Parts USA -- http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/...-00035570a.htm --- Also sells a 3-4 clutch kit, but it also has the Alto Clutches and thinner Steels

Does anyone know of a place that sells a 3-4 clutch kit that has the Borg-warner clutch's and Thick Steels...A kit like the Pro-Built Automatics Kit https://www.700r4l60e.com/store/prod...&cat=52&page=1

Or am I worrying to much about the clutch's, and the Alto clutch's will work just as good ?

I do want the thicker steels to better dissipate the heat. The stock 3-4 clutch worked just fine, without any problems.. LOL until it went out LOL

But I think something broke, that made the 3-4 clutch pack fail, because it worked without a problem for years, until I parked the truck, which then sat for years, and didn't work when I got it back on the road.

So what do you guys think about the clutch's and steel's ¿?¿