im building a 383 and it will be backed by a T-56, my ques is, how many here are using a stock LT1 fly and being im building a 383 will I see much of a diff if I went with a RAM or Fidanza?

the one big benefit I see with the alum is the replaceable contact surface.

 

Hey Richard,

I have a Fidanza for my T5, L98 stored in a closet for over a year now and I'm just too lazy to install it. Wanna help? Are you going to the Blue Suede Cruise in Tupelo?

 

not going but would be glad to help install it. one thing I suggest highly is buy some ARP flywheel bolts. the stockers like to round off somewhat no matter how good the socket fits the head.

my ARP's use a 17 mm (think that's right, been a while) and I clearly recall how nice and sold they were.

if ya wanna swap it up here my shop is cooled and I have everything to do it with.

 

I dont have experience with this, but I have heard others with years experience talking about that replaceable plate on the alum flywheel.
They didn't run out of bad things to say about having to replace that like every year and a half. Also about the Alum not being able to aquatically handle the heat/torque combinations. being a benefit really depends on how you look at it. How often do you have to replace a steel flywheel? I think the LT1 flywheel is like 22 lbs. That's pretty light anyways...
Depends on how much you want to be under the car tinkering i suppose!

 

im trying to justify not buying one as the money I spend on the fly can go towards my rotating assy and when I shoot pyro on the 4th that will finish things up pretty much.

on the other hand, i'll wish I had gotten one if I don't. as I mentioned above and as you stated, the replaceable contact surface carries a lot of weight decision wise.

 

i have the same combo, 383 backed by a t-56. used a stock lt1 flywheel. (cheaper) the only thing i can suggest is when you get ur rotating assembly balanced, make sure you take them ur flywheel soo that way they can balance everything together. i made an oops and didnt. now when i replace my flywheels i have to get then '0' balanced. but...everything is running smoothly on mine and have no issues with the drivetrain.

 

with the biz I work for that's a no brainer. eagle is a few mins away and when I buy my rotating assy they will be getting that so it can be balanced.

had a friend rebuild his motor and for a first timer he did great...............cept he didn't balance his rotating and now has a vib around 4000 rpm.

 

I looked around a bit and hit the ol ebay and right at the top of the listings there was a SPEC alum flywheel for sale thru HAWKS so i pulled the trigger. i homeworked it and the guy at SPEC said it can be used internal or external with the addition or removal of the weight on the back that bolts on and has a replaceable contact surface.

the flywheel is usually around $4xx new and i got it for $350 shipped. it came out of a car they were parting out. i get a little bit more money coming in and i'll get my rotating assy.

 

Maybe one of you can help...I have a crate L98 (87 roller 350). Is this a internal or external balanced engine? The mechanic that put this engine in used the 8" harmonic balancer from the LB9 and swapped the 700R4 with a stock T5 and flywheel from a 89 IROC. Do I need to balance the new Fidanza flywheel that I have? Thanks!

 

the mechanic should have balanced it all together. I would think it would be ok but you wont know till its on and running. does it currently have a T-5 flywheel and its it currently running?

 

Yes, It is running. I can't get a straight answer if it is internal or external balanced. It does have a t5 flywheel. The t5, clutch assembly, bell housing came out of a running 89 IROC TPI 305.

 

they are internal balanced, toss the flywheel on and see what happens. by all that I have seen you should be ok as long as the flywheel is nuteral balanced.

 

Yep! I think I will do that! Thanks!