THIS is why you need to upgrade your studs
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From: nj
Engine: IVTEC 2.4L aka SBC
Transmission: auto
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,520
Likes: 91
From: Aridzona
Car: `86 SS / `87 SS
Engine: L69 w/ TPI on top / 305 4bbl
Transmission: `95 T56 \ `88 200-4R
Re: THIS is why you need to upgrade your studs
It says it's a Moser 9-inch.
Something wasn't installed or part-matched correctly.
Something wasn't installed or part-matched correctly.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From: nj
Engine: IVTEC 2.4L aka SBC
Transmission: auto
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: THIS is why you need to upgrade your studs
look at the pictures at the end of the video. they are factory size wheel studs...
Moderator

Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,262
Likes: 168
From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: THIS is why you need to upgrade your studs
7/16" or 12mm wheel studs do not handle much abuse. That wheel hop did them in quickly. An upgrade to 1/2" studs is the most common and best way to go but even they have limits. The car doesn't look like it's fast enough but 5/8" drive studs is the best way to go.
At least they broke right off the starting line and not half way down the track. What gets me is he broke the wheel studs off, why did the rotor still fall off? Even without wheel studs, the rotor should stay on the axle enough that it shouldn't fall out of the caliper.
At least they broke right off the starting line and not half way down the track. What gets me is he broke the wheel studs off, why did the rotor still fall off? Even without wheel studs, the rotor should stay on the axle enough that it shouldn't fall out of the caliper.
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,520
Likes: 91
From: Aridzona
Car: `86 SS / `87 SS
Engine: L69 w/ TPI on top / 305 4bbl
Transmission: `95 T56 \ `88 200-4R
Re: THIS is why you need to upgrade your studs
There are plenty of wheel studs bigger than factory. But all 10, all at once?
The issue does not solely lie upon their size or fact of being OEM.
The issue does not solely lie upon their size or fact of being OEM.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 4,449
Likes: 8
From: Everett, WA
Car: 87' IROC
Engine: L98
Transmission: T56
Re: THIS is why you need to upgrade your studs
There is so much safety factor built into the factory studs its silly. This is not the fault of the studs. Most likely a bolt pattern mismatch, b stud/lug mismatch, or most likely, the lugs weren't tightened to spec.
They broke in shear. Fasteners should never see any shear unless either the joint was designed incorrectly, or the bolts weren't tightened to their spec.
Remember, you brakes develop more torque than your engine and drivetrain.
John
They broke in shear. Fasteners should never see any shear unless either the joint was designed incorrectly, or the bolts weren't tightened to their spec.
Remember, you brakes develop more torque than your engine and drivetrain.
John
Trending Topics
Moderator

Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,262
Likes: 168
From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: THIS is why you need to upgrade your studs
Nobody knows the true cause as why they suddenly failed during the wheel hop. They could have also been over tightened with an impact gun which will stretch the stud and fatigue the metal.
Moderator

Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,262
Likes: 168
From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: THIS is why you need to upgrade your studs
Not mine. I bought my axles predrilled for 5/8" studs. They screw in with 5/8" threads.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From: nj
Engine: IVTEC 2.4L aka SBC
Transmission: auto
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
355tpipickup
Tech / General Engine
9
Sep 13, 2015 11:35 PM







