Transmissions and Drivetrain Need help with your trans? Problems with your axle?

THIS is why you need to upgrade your studs

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Old May 14, 2013 | 08:16 PM
  #1  
sittincamaro's Avatar
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From: nj
Engine: IVTEC 2.4L aka SBC
Transmission: auto
Axle/Gears: 3.42
THIS is why you need to upgrade your studs

http://www.dragzine.com/videos/funny...r-hard-launch/
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Old May 14, 2013 | 08:39 PM
  #2  
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From: Aridzona
Car: `86 SS / `87 SS
Engine: L69 w/ TPI on top / 305 4bbl
Transmission: `95 T56 \ `88 200-4R
Re: THIS is why you need to upgrade your studs

It says it's a Moser 9-inch.

Something wasn't installed or part-matched correctly.
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Old May 14, 2013 | 08:44 PM
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Re: THIS is why you need to upgrade your studs

Wheel hop. It will break any rear end.
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Old May 14, 2013 | 08:55 PM
  #4  
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From: nj
Engine: IVTEC 2.4L aka SBC
Transmission: auto
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: THIS is why you need to upgrade your studs

look at the pictures at the end of the video. they are factory size wheel studs...
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Old May 14, 2013 | 11:26 PM
  #5  
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: THIS is why you need to upgrade your studs

7/16" or 12mm wheel studs do not handle much abuse. That wheel hop did them in quickly. An upgrade to 1/2" studs is the most common and best way to go but even they have limits. The car doesn't look like it's fast enough but 5/8" drive studs is the best way to go.

At least they broke right off the starting line and not half way down the track. What gets me is he broke the wheel studs off, why did the rotor still fall off? Even without wheel studs, the rotor should stay on the axle enough that it shouldn't fall out of the caliper.
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Old May 14, 2013 | 11:29 PM
  #6  
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From: Aridzona
Car: `86 SS / `87 SS
Engine: L69 w/ TPI on top / 305 4bbl
Transmission: `95 T56 \ `88 200-4R
Re: THIS is why you need to upgrade your studs

There are plenty of wheel studs bigger than factory. But all 10, all at once?

The issue does not solely lie upon their size or fact of being OEM.
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Old May 15, 2013 | 03:02 AM
  #7  
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From: Everett, WA
Car: 87' IROC
Engine: L98
Transmission: T56
Re: THIS is why you need to upgrade your studs

There is so much safety factor built into the factory studs its silly. This is not the fault of the studs. Most likely a bolt pattern mismatch, b stud/lug mismatch, or most likely, the lugs weren't tightened to spec.

They broke in shear. Fasteners should never see any shear unless either the joint was designed incorrectly, or the bolts weren't tightened to their spec.

Remember, you brakes develop more torque than your engine and drivetrain.

John
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Old May 15, 2013 | 07:20 AM
  #8  
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: THIS is why you need to upgrade your studs

Nobody knows the true cause as why they suddenly failed during the wheel hop. They could have also been over tightened with an impact gun which will stretch the stud and fatigue the metal.
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Old May 16, 2013 | 09:18 AM
  #9  
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From: nj
Engine: IVTEC 2.4L aka SBC
Transmission: auto
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: THIS is why you need to upgrade your studs

ill stick with my 5/8 studs...
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Old May 16, 2013 | 09:26 AM
  #10  
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Re: THIS is why you need to upgrade your studs

Look at the back side of your 5/8 studs. You will probably find that they are only 1/2 inch where they screw into the axles.
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Old May 16, 2013 | 05:07 PM
  #11  
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: THIS is why you need to upgrade your studs

Not mine. I bought my axles predrilled for 5/8" studs. They screw in with 5/8" threads.
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Old May 16, 2013 | 07:51 PM
  #12  
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From: nj
Engine: IVTEC 2.4L aka SBC
Transmission: auto
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: THIS is why you need to upgrade your studs

Originally Posted by AlkyIROC
Not mine. I bought my axles predrilled for 5/8" studs. They screw in with 5/8" threads.
.
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