I have an '89 auto and the shift cable is bad.
After reading through the threads, I don't see any proven way to modify. Aftermarket cables are junk, most get a JY OEM cable (discontinued).

What is the length of the OEM cable? -- 5 ft?

Has anyone modified a quality generic cable to fit? It looks like there's an eyelet to the shifter, and the bolt w/nut to the shift bracket on the trans. I'm not afraid of modifying anything up (bracket on trans pan, bracket ahead of eyelet on shifter, etc.).

I want to keep the stock shifter - any bracket or cable is fair game!

Any pics of yours, suggestions, cautions?

Thanks,
Brian

 

Typed too soon - factory is 29.31"

 

There was a post on here not too long ago from a guy who figured out a really good way to modify the aftermarket cable to where it works good. He gives detailed instructions on how to go about it. He said something about a slight mod that makes it a little more adjustable so that it actually lines up with the indicator plate the right way. I just tell guys to grab an original, used one so they don't have to go through the hassle.

 

...

 

Working on a prototype, sent off to a manufacturer - be 4-6 weeks to see if a "quality" replacement cable can be put into production.

 

Good to know. Tired of wasting money on aftermarket junk.

 

It would be fantastic if it used the nice sturdy b&m cable bracket.
Anyway, I am interested too!

 

What happened?

 

Seriously interested in this.. Tired of shifting into P and then having to put in R and back to P several times before it actually LOCKS into park lol.. And this is the 3rd "new" aftermarket cable I'm using... sigh..

 

Should have a prototype in my hands in a couple of days. Supplier let it drop through the cracks, but he e-mailed me and said it's coming.
Biggest issues are quality cable and strong attachment points. This supplier can do that. It's the plastic pieces that's the hold-up.

 

Yeha it's always those plastic pieces that break actually! And I hope this one actually locks into P properly! Glad you're doing this TEDS!

 

Have the tracking #. Stay tuned

 

I am glued to the "TV" on this one lol

 

I have seen people screw the rubber boot to the floor pan so the cable wouldn't pop out when shifting to D. Hate how nothing aftermarket seems to work the way it should.

 

Watching also!!

 

Here is the Prototype Cable. Give me all your opinions as they will help make the prototype better. This is USA made.

Cable


Trans End


Stock Trans Pan Bracket - you can see that the clip holds the trans end into this bracket


The Shifter end - looks like no plug or we'll have to reuse our own?



Can anyone post up a good pic of the shifter mechanism and the attachment point? I had one, but just got a new laptop and I'm searching for files.

Brian

 

The bracket fits perfectly in the ridge, BUT there is no room for the clip to keep it secure - looks like some machining to widen the ridge on the aluminum piece.


Here you can see the bracket width and the width of the ridge


pic of how it goes on, fits on

 

There should be a rubber boot on the trans end like there is on the stock cable, just to keep dirt out of the linkage and prevent it from locking up and breaking.
Don't know if there's something similar on the other end, but I'd recommend adding it there also, if possible.

 

There are rubber boots covering any seams - they are smaller, no doubt.
The two plastic pieces where I have the arrows - they are fixed points in length. As the cable moves inside the sheath, it extends the rods in and out of these two plastic pieces. The rods extend or retract through these pieces. Hope that makes sense.

 

Red arrows are the seams - where the cable and the rod ends are joined.
The green arrows show a tube where the rod ends protrude or retract and those white arrows are the plastic ends on the tube so the rods can smoothly move. This ensures a lot of support for the cable and the rod end. This is most of our problem - good torque on the shift lever of the trans.

 

Closer View using same arrows

 

Well, I guess I'm learning as I go. The bracket will go all the way against the aluminum body. The clip goes in the ridge by itself. It holds securely, but there is a little movement as it is not snug. Tomorrow, I'll try to put a washer in between the bracket and the clip to take up the slack.

 

Got a simple bushing to go between the bracket and the clip. Tighter than factory set-up.

 

From the manufacturer: "Some suggest that there needs to be a big accordion boot on the end like GM uses. We don’t use that boot. The little end caps are called sweeps and they keep the dirt out for those off-roaders. The boots all rip eventually, and then they entrap the moisture and dirt. "

 

So far it's looking pretty solid! Man you gotta test this thing lol very eager to see it installed and how it works.

 

Do you actually have any pricing for this?

 

Here's the pic of shifter


The swivel end wasn't working: I went to hardware store for a M8X1.25 bolt and ground down the head. I pulled the ball out of the socket, drilled a hole in the socket for ease of welding, welded the bolt in the socket, and cut the threads to fit.


Other than a quality replacement cable, I wanted maximum fitment as I have SW 2" headers going into 3" ORY with v-band clamps. It is very tight. Here is a pic of just the end (not connected to cable) and you can see that there is plenty of room - Big Plus!


No pricing, yet.

 

I fabbed up a clip/keeper to keep the cable in the 3/4" hole and drilled to hole in the bracket to keep it. Manufacturer is working on a better solution. The 3/4" hole is an oddball size compared to most shifters.

Shifter goes through all the shift points and returns to Park! I believe all the detents line up, but some improvement pieces are on the way, and I'm not going to put-on/take-off the console till we're satisfied we have the prototype correct. I'll put it on the ground this afternoon, and I'll be able to tell for sure. Here's pics of underneath:


Progress is exciting!

 

New Grommet to replace the puck


New End of Cable for the Trans Lever: the prototype has threaded end to allow for different iterations - the production piece will be a solid construction. I like the new end and it gives plenty of room for bigger exhausts like mine.


And installed pics

 

Shifting feels solid and inspires confidence. Just need to nail down the attach point at the base of the shifter, and we're done.

Thoughts, opinions, advice?

 

Do you think this cable is strong enough to manually shift with? The junk replacement cables don't hold up when going through the entire range of motion with pressure on them.

When I go into the burnout box, I go back to 1st gear, start burnout, shift to 2nd, shift to 3rd, rollout of box, brakes, then neutral to clear the motor, then back down to 3rd. This beats the crap out of the replacements and they get 'loose' after a while (I am thinking the wound cabling inside the sheath is loosening).

So the nut on the rod down by where it attaches to the shift fork is for a length of travel adjustment or something else?

I will buy 2 of these if they are an improvement over the parts store junk.

 

Yes, the cable is strong and will be able to manually shift using it. This is exactly why I contacted this company to see if they would make a cable for us, since GM discontinued them and the repros are junk. It appears that they have enough info from me (prototype) to go into production, soon.

Here's some text describing our cable:
All push-pull cables have some kind of flexible wire inside of an also
flexible housing. But of course there are differences in the cable wire and the housing that make all the difference in the world. Yet, you cannot see these differences when you look at a cable.
The first big issue is related to how much (too much) space is left inside the cable housing. The greater the empty space the greater the cable will flex inside the housing. Visualize the wire cable over 2 or 3 feet being pushed forward against the force of the transmission detent. The weaker the wire cable and the greater (sloppier) the space inside the cable housing, the more that wire cable will flex. If bad enou
gh it will cause our customers problem as stated above.
Here is how it works with one of these cheap cables. By the way, if you are buying a repo cable for $30, and the GM cable is $90.......maybe you are getting what you paid for. The shifter handle is pushed forward for Park and unknown to the customer, the wire is flexing inside the housing and losinglength. The adjustment is made, and when the shifter handle is pulled back there is not enough cable travel for Low.
So the other approach is used and the pin nut is loosened and the cable is pulled back for Low and the adjustment is made. And the pushing forward again the wire is buckling and the Shifter cannot get into Park.

Oops the cable broke.
Same problem as above, except the cable is broken. Of course the cable doesn’t look broken because when we think “broken” we think “BROKEN”. What usually happens is the little aluminum tube that extends out of the housing and guides the wire and keeps it all
straight as it leaves the housing becomes gets disconnected from the
bulkhead. Usually this happens at the Transmission end and cannot be seen because of the accordion boot covering this part of the cable. And, it usually happens when pushing the cable up and trying to get it into the pan bracket. On some Repo cables the method used to crimp the bulkhead to hold this tube in place is absurdly wimpy and makes this very easy to do. Once done the cable is junk.
When this happens the cable flexes outside the housing.


Yes, the nut by the base of the shifter is for some adjustment for the bulkhead connector, but length of travel is constant (should be) = cable length. That's why cheap cables lose stiffness and the length of travel gets skewed.

 

If you mean the nut on the rod down by the trans shift lever - then no. The prototype had a threaded rod end so that we could try different configurations. The production model will be of solid construction. I really like how it has much improved clearance for big exhaust - another reason why I offered to be a guinea pig and find a quality solution.

 

I actually liked the idea of having an adjustable end on that cable, because the V6 cables are a bit shorter than the V8's.
That way the cable could be adjusted to fit both of them.
A friend of mine has a lot of issues with these cables on his V6 and would be very happy to have a sturdy replacement.

 

NCC has a good point there. This would also increase sales.

 

Drove down to Kenosha on the border to visit a friend - no problems with the cable at all!
F & Y '89's My stance is just as low as his.

 

TEDSgrad
Thanks for being The Man!! Lol!!

Seems to be a great quality part!
So now 2 obvious Qs...
1) When you report back all is well, will they tell you when they will go into production?
2) probably unknown at this point as well, but any clue on the $ ?

This will be on the list of " to dos " .

 

I'll even buy a prototype I don't care LOL.. Anything is better than the jobber junk out there already. Good job TEDS

 

**PLEASE DO NOT ATTEMPT TO COMMUNICATE WITH THE VENDOR AT THIS POINT**

We are close to going into production. The vendor does not want a forum and all the voices on that forum clogging up the communication. They wanted one person to communicate with till they are ready for sales. I will post that when it becomes a reality.

Shiftworks. Here is a link to their website: http://www.shiftworks.com/
This is not their first rodeo. Look over their site. The FAQ page has a brief video showing some cables. Their site lists most cables from $75 - $90. I have had no discussions about cost with them, but it is my personal assumption that it would fall in this range. These are made in the USA.

Brian

 

Completely understand, thats why I was wondering if you had any info you could pass on if
anything was asked in your direction.
Understandable this is a prototype with the possibility of production with " x " needed to be dedicated
to purchase before they decide.
I would definitely get on board and commit.

 

TTT for updates, my autozone shifter cable is getting slopier and slopier each day.

 

A friend of mine contracted custom cables through them on a Fiero with a wonky trans swap. High quality stuff. If I build another auto setup, esp the 4L80E stuff, Id happily fork over $90-150 for a quality cable from them. Thanks for prototyping this for us

 

updates?

 

That would go good with the discontinued B&M detent plate.
I had one of those when my car was still an auto.
Factory appearing gate shifter is nice!

 

Not trying to be a nit picker, but the washer should be between the cable end and the cotter pin and both legs of the cotter should go through the hole then get spread apart to lock it in. Just saying you will lose that pin and be stranded that way one day. Otherwise, this looks like a great setup.

 

Prototype 1.0 will not be on long enough. We're working on the final prototype - still some time before production - Spring for sure. I won't let the thread drift into outer-space. Just nothing of importance to publicize.
Just helped Herb get a shifter mechanism and brackets from a member, here. That should help him with final measurements.
Brian

 

My bad, I thought I was helping you. I guess I should keep my mouth shut and let people learn from their own mistakes.

 

Hey guys,

any updates on this? What's the progress? How's the cable holding up so far?

 

Cable held up fine, but it's under a blanket, now. Tune in to the Packers vs 49ers game and you'll get the idea

I helped the vendor purchase a shifter mechanism, cable, and bracket off TGO a couple of weeks ago. The small hole at the shifter mechanism is not standard, so it's slowing down things. It's happening, just not as fast as we would like, but better to have it done right the first time and not frustrate customers.
I can offer you my subjective experience of the cobbled-up prototype piece: it inspires confidence shifting through the gears, and have had no problems. These guys will do it right.

 

Good to know. I can wait. Whenever it's ready, like the second it's ready, I'll hit the buy button.