Theres a few members who have had problems with their 275-206 relay, which is what B&M recommends. This relay will most likely burn out because there is a thin white wire that is triggered to pass a 12 volt current from the ignition switch to the relay, and down to the starter. The white wire is so thin that it will burn out because of the amount of current flowing through it. Its very similar to a fusible link. The pictures below will show you my relay that burnt out 2x's. The first time I re-soldered another white wire in place. But it burnt out too. So I then re-soldered another thicker gauge wire. Be advised that you must have a soldering iron that is capable of producing heat at least 350-400* F. Today I tested the relay and it never got hot at all. So I say mission accomplished. if you have any questions, let me know and I will help you out or explain what I did to make this junk relay work.

Below is a timeline of events of my progress to the successful solution to the relay.

 

Highly likely you will eventually burn the contacts out as that relay ( http://octopart.com/275-206-radioshack-7529694 )
is only rated at 3A , well below the current draw on that circuit

"current flow through the starter switch for the few milliseconds it takes to close the starter contactor is quite high , on the order of 25-35 amps.
This high initialization current produces a snappy, high value engagement force to move the pinion gear into position and close the starter contactor.
Once the contactor is closed, power to keep the solenoid energized falls to a small fraction of the initial current flow."

http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/strtctr.pdf


I suspect that lightweight relay should be operating another HD relay on the starter circuit ; NOT to pass full starter solenoid amperage

Got a link to the B&M circuit diagram?

 

Good info vetteoz. Very good info. I actually did think about adding a HD relay for the starter circuit with the guidance of TunedPerformance. Here is the link to the b&m diagram.

http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=82073

Also here is a diagram that I made last night. TunedPerformance and I had a lengthy conversation about it too.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/post...003-post9.html

 

If you are going down that wiring path then why not loose the Radio shack relay altogether ( is now just a switch operated by another switch )
and run the ECM P/N wire through the P/N switch on the shifter to ground ( and through your new HD starter relay on the way )
Gives P/N indication to the ECM and operates the starter relay when in P/N position

 

What about the reverse switch? Does it stay the same? Perhaps a new drawing from you would better clarify your idea, if you don't mind.

 

Thinking about your proposed circuit drawing and what I said it needs qualifying;
is the output from the ECM on the P/N circuit actually 12V , and does that output have the current capability to operate a relay?
Without pulling a FSM out , I can't comment at present

As it is only a signal to ground and not intended to operate anything , it could be any voltage , say 5V and ultra low amps so that trying to run a relay off it torches the ECM

 

Glad I read this before I installed my shifter. Makes sense that if you route a circuit that has 10 gauge wires through a relay that goes down to a smaller gauge wire that the small wire will eventually burn under load. Like if your battery cable was too short you wouldn't splice some speaker wire in the middle and expect it to last very long.
BTW I was kinda wondering about that 3 amp rating on the relay that B&M recommends so I picked up a higher 10 amp rated relay from Radio Shack (same physical dimensions as the 3 amp relay) I'll open it up and see What gauge wire is on that starter circuit.

 

I still suggest using a bosch style relay. On the schematic I made 86 is a fuse battery power and the switch I put next to 85 is your micro switch. The ecm sends out 12v but do not use it to power the relay. When B10 gets grounded the ecm will do a rpm adder. You could add a second relay controlled bye the reverse micro switch to run the reverse lights.

 

Now I see what you mean. Right on B. thanks. Ima give you a ring today.

 

You are correct. I miss read the diagram an I thought that the 12v that is noted on the ECM was a voltage being sent to that wire. But then after countless times that TunedPerformance told me that it's a ground, it made sense when you said "not intended to operate anything". Thanks for the replies vetteoz.

 

The 10 amp relay looks like it has the same small wire on the starter solenoid circuit. Way too small to feel comfortable using that. The contacts appear to be just as big as in the bosch type relay though.