Hey everyone. I was wondering how difficult a T56 swap would be on a T-5 84 Firebird. I have either a 305 or a 350(V8 swap from a 2.8, bought the car already engine swapped). Its really hard to tell, I've run some codes on the block but they're really hard to read and not producing any results. But anyway the engine makes a good amount of power. More than that T-5 under there can handle anymore I think. It grinds into reverse, sometimes wont give me second if I run it really hard in first. This all contributes to hydraulics I know but I think the trans is going on top of all of that. I have minimal experience but very mechanically inclined and have a LOT of tools.I have good experience with engines. I just want to know how difficult and how costly it would be to swap a T56 for now until I get a new 350 crate motor. Thanks.

 

I realize you're new here, so don't take it personal.

About every coupla weeks, somebody comes on here and asks this; expecting to be spoon-fed all the stuff that's already been posted about a billion times elsewhere. Nobody wants to answer this question, which is about the 3rd most popular one behind "how long will my T-5 last" and "how much power can my 10-bolt take before it grenades".

Read the sticky at the top of this forum and the T-56 question on the FAQ forum.

I can't imagine anything you could possibly think to ask, that isn't covered in at least one of those.

"84" "Firebird" "305" "350" "swap" and all the rest of that, makes not the slightest difference. Yours is the same as everybody else's.

 

Start by looking at the block here for 5.0LG or 5.7LG:


And read that sticky on the T56 swap. Then ask detailed questions that aren't already covered there.

Because every T56 swap is it's own special little snowflake.

 

Thank you for not being a ******** to someone who is new to this forum jmd.

 

I already have looked there, the codes are hard to read but I got CEB1331 80...? CEB matches with nothing, maybe it say CED?

 

Just remember, he's new to this forum too.

Honestly, I don't care about pre-86 engines. The older they get, the quicker the bores wear, the more $ it costs to do a roller cam, and the more they leak oil. And I'm not a restorer / matching numbers type. So what very little I have to say ain't much.

Two resources I have gone to for years when I cared about the origin of a SBC:
http://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm

http://www.nastyz28.com/chevy-engine-code-stampings.php

The latter of which says: In short, you're screwed. But you could dyno your car and have a better idea. You could pull a valve cover, get the head casting numbers and if they're heads typically used on a 4.00 bore engine, assume it's a 350 or small combustion chamber heads for a 3.736 bore, a 305.

Since it's a 2pc RMS, a lack of weight on the flexplate means it's not a 400.

 

Just one tidbit that is NOT in there.

If your car already has the hydraulic master and slave, simply get a 1988 Cavalier 4 cylinder slave and you can reuse your pedals, master and just make a new line for the slave. Takes out a LOT of time and frustration!

 

Here is a thread I made with pictures when I went through and did my swap.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...swap-made.html

 

This does work, if you're using T56 clutch master cylinder and third gen pedals, I could even use the line off the T56 master no problems, it hooks up with the pin no problems. I used an 86 Z24 cavalier slave cylinder. Took some time to bleed it out, but it works, and has a light pedal. But it has a long travel. engages fully about two inches off the floor, and full disengagement is high on the pedal travel. However, it was honestly an easy swap. If I decided to use the T5 car I have it would have been even easier, pretty much a bolt in swap, just gotta notch the shifter hole. However, due to rot, and other issues, I am using that one as a parts/donor car.