Here are a few shots .
I've taken the non LSD axle out and have a Dana 44 with a 4.09 LSD from my donor car,
Any thoughts on if I should get the rear swaybar powder coated?

 

Here are some shots with the axle removed.

 

please keep us updated about the swap i am considering this swap my self

 

The rear sway bar is back from the powder coaters, I'm waiting for Founders Performance adjustable control arms and an adjustable panhard rod to turn up from the States,
The donor car is back on it's wheels with my axle, propshaft, springs and shocks.
I lowered the axles onto a flat trolley when I removed them and was able to pull the axle from the car from the side it also made it easy to put it back into the donor.

 

care to divulge which manual transmission you are using?
Nice colorful garage by the way.

 

The donor car has a T5 and a 383.
One thing that I forgot to mention was the axle ends of the propshafts were different sizes.
Luckily the gearbox ends are the same
Also here is a shot of my rear sway bar after being powder coated.
and another shot of my garage


And this is a link to my photography on flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gary-chalker/

 

Here is a picture of the Founders performance adjustable panhard rod and adjustable control arms that arrived in the post this morning

 

I fitted the Dana 44 axle into my car today.
Also in the picture you can see my Gale Banks Exhaust system which is mated to Edelbrock headers.

 

I am nearly ready to remove the 383 engine and T5 trans from my donor car.
Here are a few pictures.
Today I removed the starter which I think is a Mcleod mini starter.
The T5 shifter, it says Hurst on the stick maybe someone can tell me if if the shifter part is Hurst and also if they are any good?
Also I removed the manual clutch linkage and after reading on here about how they split I was expecting the worse, after cleaning it up it's perfect [donor car only has 24,000 miles on the clock]

 

Here are some pics of the shifter

 

Any updates on the swap?

 

I've removed the pedal boxes from both cars which was not that bad a job. I removed the drivers seat in both cars and then just laid on my back . I have also marked the hole to be cut in the firewall for the clutch rod [manual clutch linkage]. There is also a plate bolted on the drivers side frame rail with 2 bolts
the holes were there on the auto car but I had to use an 8mm tap to thread them. I have also swapped the heater boxes over [ donor car had no A/C] also an easy job. I also removed a MSD6200 and coil from the donor car ,it's fitted with loads of goodies. I have now put a bolt in the manual pedal box [above the clutch pedal] so that I can hopefully adjust the clutch pedal height

 

Today I cut the hole in the firewall for the clutch rod and fitted the manual pedal box ,if anyone else is doing this I suggest putting the bolt at the top of the pedal box in first [before you push the servo through the firewall] and then the 4 nuts for the servo ,if you fit the 4 nuts first you may find that the hole for the bolt at the top of the pedal box will not line up.
Here are a couple of pics with the pedal box fitted, note the B and M auto shifter , my car is still fitted with the 305 and TH 700R4
Next job is to remove the engine and trans ,cut the hole in the trans tunnel for the T5 shifter
Then fit my 383 and T5 from the donor car after the engine has been re painted.

 

The engine and 5 speed are now removed from my donor car. I'm going to strip the paint off the engine and re paint it.
I have now washed the 5 speed and I'm going to paint that as well

 

All the old yellow paint was scraped off and the engine is now painted with three coats of POR15 Chevy Orange.

 

I had that exact hurst shifter in my 1986 T-5 Trans Am. I wound up cutting the stick down because of how high it stood. It is so high it looks goofy. I wound up cutting the stick at the bottom and having two new holes drilled. Looked and worked wayyyyy better.

 

Thanks for the tip. Do you have any pictures?

 

Engine/Trans is now out of my car and I'm starting to tidy up the engine bay. I had a bit of a nightmare getting under my car I had to place paving slabs under each wheel.
The front sway bar[32mm] has been powder coated and I'm waiting for new bushes and end links to arrive.
I also have anther steering box to go in it has XH stamped on the end and a Z on the top casing is this a higher effort/quick rack and will it work OK with 15inch wheels and are there any disadvantages?

 

I swapped
the steering box today all of the bolts and the pitman arm came off no problem

 

I still have not got round to putting my new engine and manual gearbox in ,the new engine mounts are in along with a freshly powder coated front sway bar sitting in new bushes and end links, also new steering box fitted. After a lot of measuring I cut the hole in the trans tunnel for the gear lever.
I have also been polishing the inner wings and generally trying to tidy things up under the bonnet.
I got an Edelbrock strut brace a few days ago so I'm going to fit that after the engine/box are in.
Who else is using one of these?
I have a new torque arm bush and gearbox mount from Energy Suspension also to be fitted.

 

I drilled out the rivets that hold the original torque arm mount and replaced it with an Energy Suspension polyurethane mount . I also changed the gearbox mount for a polyurethane one.
Next stage get the engine and box in the car.

 

I fitted the engine and gearbox today. The engine mounts/gearbox mount and torque arm mount are all fitted with Energy Suspension polyurethane bushes. The front roll bar has been powder coated and is fitted with new polyurethane bushes and end links also from Energy Suspension.
I've also fitted a quick rack from a Camaro, Edelbrock strut brace will be bolted in later

 

Today I tightened the gearbox crossmember and mount along with the torque arm mount [a bit of a bitch]. Also fitted the McLeod mini starter.
I fitted my centre consol back in with the manual shift plate and Hurst quick shifter and found that I had cut the hole in the right place after all

 

I am still working on my car when I can. Here is a pic of where I am at .
Untitled by garymchalker, on Flickr
Engine bay by garymchalker, on Flickr

 

Looks nice! What kind of hoses are those?

 

The heater hoses came from a company here in the UK
The radiator hoses came fom ebay.com

 

Untitled by garymchalker, on Flickr

Untitled by garymchalker, on Flickr

 

not to get off topic but I think the 996R is the sexiest bike ever made

 

I agree

 

All pulleys are now fitted ,I had to use a shim on the water pump pulley to get things to line up

Aluminium pulleys fitted by garymchalker, on Flickr

and I got a short stick for my Hurst quickshifter it looks and feels a whole lot better

Long stick
Hurst shifter with 7.5 inch stick by garymchalker, on Flickr

Short stick
Hurst shifter with short stick by garymchalker, on Flickr

 

The exhaust system is back on. I've wired up the starter and bypassed the old auto shiter wiring so the engine now turns over on the key. The MSD box and coil are fitted I just need to wire them up. Fan switch,Engine temp sender,back up lights and the alternator are wired up.
I have also started to fit Teflon braided fuel pipe
Enginge bay by Gary Chalker, on Flickr

MSD box and coil by Gary Chalker, on Flickr

Engine showing 10mm Teflon braided fuel pipe by Gary Chalker, on Flickr

 

Car is now all re assembled

by https://www.flickr.com/photos/116957934@N04/, on Flickr

Hawks Third Gen wheels
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/116957934@N04/, on Flickr

Wheels and bonnet fitted
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/116957934@N04/, on Flickr

by https://www.flickr.com/photos/gary-chalker/, on Flickr

by https://www.flickr.com/photos/gary-chalker/, on Flickr

by https://www.flickr.com/photos/gary-chalker/, on Flickr