Hello thirdgen,

I'm thinking about installing some 3.73's or possibly 4.10's within the next few weeks while converting to manual. I've got a 10 bolt.


I've never installed gears before and have heard it is quite a specialized and difficult task. I'm sure there are some detailed write ups and possibly videos on the net about this.

If I did this, I would yank the rear end and sit it on jack stands, therefore I've got plenty of room to work with.

Between TGO, other writeups and videos, you guys think this is a task that can be done by someone that's never did it before?

Anyone accomplish this task with no previous rear end experience?

 

I did. I swapped in a zexel torsen and 3:42 gears with no previous experiance and it is still going strong.

 

We have coached many people through the process. If you can post pictures of the contact pattern we can help you with pinion depth adjustments. There is a good thread on this sight. Look at the FAQ about 10 bolts sticky for more information.

 

I did it for the first time ever myself 2 winters ago. I've had no problems since with the rear and I used a set of 3.73s I pulled from an S10 in a junkyard. Big Gear Head was a huge help, along with others on here. Just take your time and check the contact pattern as many times as it takes to get it right.

 

Same here. One time only. I rebuilt a 9-bolt by reading what's available on TGO and other sites. Took me a long time (40+ hours over several months) but I had to get the posi machined before re-assembling it and upgraded brakes at the same time. Nothing about it is really difficult you just need to read and understand what you're doing. Getting the gear pattern correct takes patience and maybe some advice on how to re-shim if it's not right. It's interesting to do and of course saves a bunch of money doing it yourself.

 

4.10's on a 10-bolt are significantly weaker. I would stick to 3.73... but the differences aren't huge.

It's a very precision task that will require experimentation. The best advice I have to make the process easier is to get a solid pinion spacer. That will save you the frustration of having to deal with a crush sleeve and make it a little bit stronger at the same time. Just a little bit. The drawback to the pinion spacer is that it's another part that needs to be shimmed up to the correct depth. The crush sleeve automatically figures out where it needs to be on its own after you put the fear of god into it.

If you can find someone to walk you through it, do that. You will need an inch lb beam style torque wrench and a dial indicator gauge with magnetic base. The massive 300 ft lb torque wrench they recommend is only for the crush sleeve. You skip the crush sleeve and taht requirement is gone.

Beyond that you need gear marking compound and you're pretty much good to go.

I will also say just save yourself the hassle and just take the axle out of the car. Put a vise grip on the rear brake line and disconnect it and just roll the axle to where you want to work on it. You can do it in the car but it will take a LOT of frustration out of it if you can get to it and work on a stand or a bench instead of under your muffler.

It's not hard. If you do it wrong it doesn't matter. You can take it apart and do it again for the cost of a gasket. Its not a big deal. Especially with used gears, their wear patterns are already established and if you get it wrong for once around the block it's not a big deal to reset. Even with new gears I wouldnt worry about it too much. But as cheap as 10-bolt gears are, it's just a matter of being patient and getting it right, even if you have to do it a few times.

 

Great advice right there. Some guys do get lucky with the 4.10 but it's way more of a time bomb.

 

I assume you can buy an axle dolly but I made one from a Harbor Freight furniture dolly and a couple pieces of 2x4 and plywood. Cost about $12 and made moving it around real easy. You have to rig up a way to anchor the axle in different positions. 2x4 and 3/4inch gas pipe work for that.