T5 maintenance questions.
T5 maintenance questions.
Just got a 92 V6 with the 5 speed. Never had a manual 3rd gen before, I want to do a full service maintenance on it. I don't know if it's got a filter, what fluid it uses, how much or how to change it. Any experiences and data would be greatly appreciated. Also I wanna put a clutch in it in a few months and any tips will be appreciated.
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iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,359
Likes: 5
From: Pennsylvania
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: Rebuilt 350 going in after paint
Transmission: WCT5, 7k & counting behind the 350
Axle/Gears: 4thgen disc rear w/ 3.73 Posi
Re: T5 maintenance questions.
Manual transmissions dont require much maintenance. There is no filter to change. If its the original trans, it will take dexron 3 or higher ATF. there is a drain hole and a fill hole on the passenger side of the transmission case. The plugs take a standard 3/8 drive ratchet head. Drain it, then fill till the fluid just starts to run out of the fill hole. Takes 3-4 quarts IIRC.
If you're gonna change the clutch soon, just wait till then to change the fluid as you'll need to drain the trans to remove it. It can be removed from under the car, but its a PITA to get in and out without a lift or at least a tranny jack.
To remove it, remove the center console and the shifter cover. Remove the 4 bolts holding the hiftervin place and lift it out. Raise the car using the method available to you(lift or jack & stands in front) then remove the 2 bolts on the rear end holding the torque arm in place. Pull it away fom the diff and slide towards the rear of the car to remove from the trans mount. Remove the straps holding the driveshaft to the yoke, slide itvforward into the trans till you can remove it from the yoke and pull out. Remove the 4 bolts holding the crossmember in place, and the bolts into the trans mount. At this point the rear of the trans will drop down(watch the distributor cap doesn't break against the firewall) and you can get to the 4 bolts holding the trans to the bellhousing. You'll still need some long extensions and u-joints to get to the top pair of bolts. Slide the trans back and out. The remove the bellhousing by removing the bolts that attach it to the engine and the splash shield. Remove the pressure plate bolts from the flywheel and the clutch and pressure plate will fall out. Installation is the reverse process, and make sure you torque everything to spec(you like your feet where they are, right?).
While its apart, check the flywheel for cracks, scoring, and burn marks. Check the pilot bushing in the end of the crank and the clutch fork for wear. Do yourself a favor and replace the throwout bearing, they are only $15 or $20, cause you don't want to do this again anytime soon.
If you're gonna change the clutch soon, just wait till then to change the fluid as you'll need to drain the trans to remove it. It can be removed from under the car, but its a PITA to get in and out without a lift or at least a tranny jack.
To remove it, remove the center console and the shifter cover. Remove the 4 bolts holding the hiftervin place and lift it out. Raise the car using the method available to you(lift or jack & stands in front) then remove the 2 bolts on the rear end holding the torque arm in place. Pull it away fom the diff and slide towards the rear of the car to remove from the trans mount. Remove the straps holding the driveshaft to the yoke, slide itvforward into the trans till you can remove it from the yoke and pull out. Remove the 4 bolts holding the crossmember in place, and the bolts into the trans mount. At this point the rear of the trans will drop down(watch the distributor cap doesn't break against the firewall) and you can get to the 4 bolts holding the trans to the bellhousing. You'll still need some long extensions and u-joints to get to the top pair of bolts. Slide the trans back and out. The remove the bellhousing by removing the bolts that attach it to the engine and the splash shield. Remove the pressure plate bolts from the flywheel and the clutch and pressure plate will fall out. Installation is the reverse process, and make sure you torque everything to spec(you like your feet where they are, right?).
While its apart, check the flywheel for cracks, scoring, and burn marks. Check the pilot bushing in the end of the crank and the clutch fork for wear. Do yourself a favor and replace the throwout bearing, they are only $15 or $20, cause you don't want to do this again anytime soon.
Re: T5 maintenance questions.
That's great info, I really appreciate it. I've noticed that when I'm driving along in gear that the shift **** and lever seam to kinda bounce up and down. I used to other sticks I've had swell up when I'm coming off the clutchand sink down when I'm off throttle, and this does do that, but it bounces and bobs in gear just cruising along. The amount of bob is about an inch to an inch and a half. Is that normal for these or is something wrong? I checked the cross member bolts and the transmission mounts and they are all tight.
Re: T5 maintenance questions.
You said dextron 3 or higher? What is the ideal fluid? I don't know a thing about trans fluids. I wanna take as good care of this trans as I can until the T56 swap gets done.
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 103
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Re: T5 maintenance questions.
Are these good transmissions? Everything I see everybody wants to change these out for another transmission, are these good durable transmission for my V6 or is it a ticking time bomb?
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Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 103
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Re: T5 maintenance questions.
I've used my T5 behind a 350/330 for many years without issue. That said, I don't drive the car very hard.
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,528
Likes: 240
From: Henrietta NY
Car: 1984 Trans Am L69
Engine: Sniper EFI Powered 355
Transmission: WC T5 w/ Steel Support Plate
Axle/Gears: 3.42 10 Bolt Posi
Supreme Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,359
Likes: 5
From: Pennsylvania
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: Rebuilt 350 going in after paint
Transmission: WCT5, 7k & counting behind the 350
Axle/Gears: 4thgen disc rear w/ 3.73 Posi
Re: T5 maintenance questions.
As long as you don't abuse it. A friend of mine had an 89 Camaro and he abused the tans and eventually bent the input shaft, locking it into 4th gear. On a completely stock 2.8 V6. I have a V6 trans behind my 350, and its lasted more than 7k miles so far, but I don't abuse it.
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