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Hey guys, I have a few questions I'd like to pick your brains about. I have an 86 IROC, that has a carburated 350 and a 700R4 transmission in it now and it runs fine. Come next year though, I'm looking at swapping in a 430HP 383 crate engine. The cam specs of the engine I'm going to install are .528 Intake .536 Exhaust, 230 Intake / 240 Exhaust duration @ .050 - 112 degree lobe separation; they are suggesting a 2000-2400 stall.
I'm trying to get all the parts lined out on paper and bought before I leap for the engine next year and I'm wondering what converter I need to run and not cook the tranny? Does it need to be a lock out converter and who makes the most dependable converter? I only want to do the job one time and be done with it. I know I'll need to install an external cooler with the stall converter, but I just want to make sure I buy a good quality converter that's going to be streetable and be inside the rpm envelope of 2000-2500.
P.S. I should add that I'm building this for a street rod that will see more cruise ins than any real drag racing.
Last edited by MSgt Luttrell; Apr 16, 2015 at 05:52 AM.
I think that's a bit much cam for a 2000-stall, even in a 383. But your axle ratio, which you didn't list, will affect the choice. If you define quality by cost and warranty, then consider brands like Yank and Circle-D. Not that TCI or B&M are bad, they're not. But I'd sooner believe the recommendations of Circle D or Yank than a local trans shop.
I think that's a bit much cam for a 2000-stall, even in a 383. But your axle ratio, which you didn't list, will affect the choice. If you define quality by cost and warranty, then consider brands like Yank and Circle-D. Not that TCI or B&M are bad, they're not. But I'd sooner believe the recommendations of Circle D or Yank than a local trans shop.
The stock gears in it now are 3:23 open diff, but I think I'm going to step up to a 3:73 posi.
I'm looking at swapping in a 430HP 383 crate engine. The cam specs of the engine I'm going to install are .528 Intake .536 Exhaust, 230 Intake / 240 Exhaust duration @ .050 - 112 degree lobe separation; they are suggesting a 2000-2400 stall.
I wouldn't even put a 2000-2400 stall in a stock Camaro. That's way too low. For a street cruiser with that cam, I'd be looking along the lines of a 3400-3600 stall. Go to Circle D's website and fill out the "ask Chris" section with your engine details and driving style. I'd guess his 2C (3200-3400) or 3C (3500-3700) converter would be along the lines for you.
Even a 1C (3000-3200) would work well in terms of keeping it barely even noticeable. This is their stock F-body daily driver converter recommendation.
Last edited by Reid Fleming; May 2, 2015 at 02:30 PM.
You need a cooler in the radiator. Air coolers dont do shi# compaired to water submerged coolers. There is tons of info on the web about 700r4s.
Water submerged ones work well in Minnesota because you can drive the car in the winter and use the radiator to pre-heat the transmission. Especially important while driving on the highway.
In a hotter climate, you'll do better with an external only cooler (not through the radiator).
Why bother running the warm transmission oil through the hot radiator when you're sitting in traffic during the summer? Running 170° transmission fluid through a radiator that is at 220° isn't going to do much but heat up the transmission.
Leaving a small gap between the external cooler and the condenser also helps. No point using each other as heat sinks. All that does is heat up the cooler and warm up your A/C.
I also like the safety aspect of if your radiator ever gets a leak in the transmission cooler tubing, that your transmission won't get antifreeze running through it (if you run the external only)
