My son and I are working on his 85' Trans AM 305 TPI. Tranny was leaking so we pulled it and the engine. Trying to do some basic mods for more power etc. Wondering about Stall Converter for this application. I think he has 3.23 gears, we are looking at a cam, exhaust headers, cat back, maybe a new cat. We are deleting smog/egr stuff.

What size if any "Stall" should we be looking at 2200-2400? and "Lock up or not"? Any specific recommendations?

 

definitely keep the lockup. take it off the computer and put it on a vacuum switch, and don't forget the brake switch for automatic unlock. Then wire that through the 4th gear pressure switch on the VB so it only locks when cruising in OD. You can also wire in a coolant temp switch if it proves necessary. The kits are available but costly, and instructions are all over the net for free.

 

In order to run non lock, you will need a non lock converter, and there is work that needs to be done in the valve body i believe. If you have all the locking stuff, I would go that way. Cosmick layed it out well. There is tons of info on the topic too if you do a little searching. Dont believe everything people will tell you about non lock vs lock. Read about it and pick what way you want it to be. I swapped from a T5 to 700r4 and didnt have all the locking stuff. My tranny guy built the tran for non locking, non locking converter and I have had no issues. 10k miles and it is as strong as day one. You will need a tranny cooler. (in radiator type) Also, Ive seen kits through monster tranny that are 100 bucks. really simple to install as long as the solenoid is working in the tran. They have a video on how to hook it using their kit. good luck!

-Dan

 

the radiator is the factory cooler.

 

Cosmick I had never heard of that method.Have had one of my camaro's lockup wired to a switch for years.Im interested in this.If you don't mind could you specify what "VB" is and if it isnt too much trouble a link to one of the instructions.Would appreciate it.

 

Call Dana at Pro-Built automatics in california and get one of his road-race rebuild kits. They run around $670 or so.

Also, please don't buy a cheap converter. Stay away from B&M and TCI, they have the highest return rates in the nation. The key to a good stall, is that you want it to match the motors specs. Call Precicion Industries and talk to them about your build. They should be able to set you up right. Also, a "good" converter is going to run $700-$800. IF you pay less than that it's a "cheap" one. Some people have luck with the cheap ones (TCI, B&M), most I've heard and read about on the site here don't. Other options in the "Good" catagory are Edge, Circle-D, and ATI.

Also, the factory style is lock up and that's what you want.