tevisilva

so my 700r4 burnt out its 2-4 band and lost all forward gears but first as they often do, fun drive home that was. i put off rebuilding it for quite sometime because, well i'm lazy. finally decided it was time and i purchased a core from a questionable dude with no teeth with the same issue as my own. the core was out of a 85 or some were around there square body 4x4. pulled the whole thing apart and found the normal smoked clutches and 2-4 band burnt up, all pretty normal. the tcc harness was all cut out which im not the happiest about but what ever. the big, i don't want to say issue but i feel its an issue at least for me. the third accumulator check ball (captured and capsuled) and the low reverse check ball that's, i'm told, captured in the case were both not there. also there is a copper plug with a tiny hole in the servo area where the capsule for the third accumulator check ball is supposed to be, i think its called a orifice cup plug. when i say tiny i mean you cant really even see its there till you shine some light through the case.

now let me just say i'm definitely not a trans rebuilder. i learned a little in trade school but i don't remember a lot of it. any way getting to the point, is there any reason the capsule is missing, should i replace it? how the hell was it running with out it? also i saw in a transgo 700 2-3 vid i can put a check ball in the low reverse part and the separator plate will hold it there and that's good enough? i dunno any input is appreciated, also i know there's probably more then a few 700r4 threads and i'm just beating a dead horse but i can never find anything specific enough for my situation.

GeneralDisorder

iTrader: (1)

This video shows some of the modifications you are seeing. I don't profess to understand in detail why exactly these modifications are being made but he does seem to know what he's doing and has obviously done it quite a few times:


Clearly you have landed on a modified transmission.

Rick

tevisilva

Fair enough, thanks man that clears stuff up

Pro Built Automatics

Some bad information here. The first feed hole he talks about is the 4th feed hole. The second hole he mentions is correct 3rd feed hole. The next hole mentioned is the 2nd feed hole (one in the circle) DO NOT drill it to .125". Maximum here (if you live at the drags) is .110" with a 3,600 rpm and higher stall 9.5" or smaller diameter torque converter. If driving on the street .099" is the largest with a 3,600 rpm or higher stall 9.5" diameter torque converter. This is with using the Corvette servo. The next hole talked about (he said to leave it alone) is the 3-2 downshift and it should be .110" - .155". If the hole is missing (band release for the 2-3 shift) add a .093" hole as mentioned. The TV holes are not to be touched here. Install the checkballs as the factory had them, do not leave any out except the one in the rear of the case that is in a capsule. Remove this checkball from the capsule.

tevisilva

So completely leave out the low reverse check ball? Im starting over from scratch as far as the seperator plate is concerned and useing transgos 700 2 and 3 kit bit thanks for the info

Pro Built Automatics

If you want the best of both worlds, add the TransGo Junior kit to the 700-2-3 Shift kit as I do and you will have smooth part throttle shifts and firm WOT shifts. The changes to make are: Follow the TransGo Junior kit instructions to add to the 700-2-3 kit. Use the back spring in the 2nd accumulator in the valve body. Red spring on the line bias valve. Do the Orange and Blue accumulator springs for the 2nd accumulator. Grind the 4 notches on the steel cover and add the Blue spring to the original on the 2nd apply servo (Corvette). This is what I do to get the best of both worlds here. I never setup the 700-2-3 without doing this. This is much easier on the geartrain.

tevisilva

Pretty unrelated but i took the valve body apart yesterday to get metal shavings out of the 1-2 shift valve bore from drilling. The second half of that valve you have to take a second pin out for. The aluminum sleeve or bushing, not sure what its called, was very tight in the bore and i almost couldn't get it out the first time. When i go to put it back in it gets stuck in the bore, i cant push the pin in to lock it there and i have to use a drill bit to pull it out. Does that need to be clocked a certain way? Or is there more likely a bir in the bore i cant see and im just over thinking it?