Hello everyone! I need some expert eyes on my parts list. There is a lot of info about this swap, but not much pertaining to the later cars.
I have a 1991 Formula WS6. All original drivetrain – 305TPI/T5.
I have a T56 out of a 95 Camaro. This is the only part that is used. Everything else I plan to buy new.
I plan to use the existing pedal setup and mod it as needed. I want this car to drive as if GM had put the trans in.
Let me know if you see any errors or omissions.
Thanks!

T56 transmission w/bellhousing Craigslist $750.00
LT1 Clutch Summit Racing $200.00
LT1 Flywheel Summit Racing $100.00
LT1 Master & Slave Cylinder Rock Auto $117.00
Starter re-use stock $0.00
Trans to engine bolts
Torque arm re-use stock $0.00
Pilot bearing included in clutch kit $0.00
Throw out bearing included in clutch kit $0.00
Swap crossmember Hawks $120.00
Dakota Digital box Dakota Digital $85.00
Flywheel Bolts
Samoco Box w/wire Samoco $113.00
T56 dust shield Ebay $51.00

 

1 12101899 Vss Pigtail
1 12101857 Reverse Lockout Pigtail

 

3.90 or 4.11 rear gears. Seriously.

 

Got the slave cylinder spacer with the belll/trans?

 

Pressure plate bolts?

 

Make sure your LB9 starter wasn't replaced with L98 version. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...-question.html

 

Shifter

 

Thanks Drew, I ordered the pigtails.

I got the spacer and shifter with the trans.
Starter was replaced by me a few years ago with a correct stock unit.

jmd, I know the 305 is going to suck in the first few gears, but this car spends most of its life in the fast lane at 80+mph. I just want to reduce the stress on the old 305. Its turning almost 3k at those speeds. Better fuel economy too. I want this car to be a long distance cruiser to take across the country some day. Any other tips or tricks?

Thanks

 

Drew, you mentioned a reverse lockout pitgail and the OP mentioned a Samoco Box. Its been 14 years since I did this swap and never heard of that Samco box. Is your part number for the reverse lights pigtail instead?

When I did my swap, I just left the reverse lockout unlugged. Ya, it took a little effort to get the trans in reverse but it wasnt too bad. I just remember there being 3 pigtails at the time that I bought. Not sure if I used them all. VSS, reverse lights and either a CAGS or reverse lokout.. I cant remember,

Also, OP, I bought all the flywheel to crank bolts, pressure plate to flywheel bolts an bellhousing to block bolts right from the dealer. Not sure if they still offer them but you should look into new bolts. Especially the pressure plate to flywheel bolts, They have a unique shoulder on them.

Look into the bracket that helps hold the exhaust in place too. I believe it bolts to the rear section of the t56 with the same bolts that hold the OEM torque arm mount on.

Do not forget the shifter boot. Pay attention in this area when it comes time to trimming the trans tunnel. You have one shot at getting it right. You cut too much and you'll have a hole there and fumes will enter the cabin. I reused a T5 boot and just trimmed it. DO NOT go without that boot.

 

The numbers I posted are just for the service pigtails.

I went an OCD step further and just ordered all the bits to assemble the connectors, from Mouser. Even ordered the connector for the CAGS solenoid and the rubber plugs that take the place of terminals, to keep trash out of the CAGS solenoid's connector. LOL Ordered all the connector shells, terminals, etc for all the wiring, as well as the mating connectors for the stock 5spd harness, in case I decide to make it plug and play with the standard VSS connector. I'm not sure yet what I'll end up doing, I've got the V6 harness I could hack up, or an auto or 5spd factory TPI harness. I'm still sorting out the body work, so it'll be awhile before I get around to plugging in the T56.

 

your gonna need a bigger rubber shift boot to cover the trans tunnel also

 

Any idea where you can get a bigger shifter boot? I'm looking at doing this swap too. Good read.

 

ebay sells the boots just depends on how big of a hole u make to put in the t56

 

Or get a boot from a 4th gen F-body...IIRC, the boot is the same on V-6 T5 4th gens as the T56 V8 cars.

 

Kinda doubt that. The T56 boot has a giant 6 molded into it.

 

Definitely need LT1/T56 pressure plate to flywheel bolts since they're special and double as the locating pins. I went with ARP 134-2202 instead of trying to track down OEM ones.

Bellhousing to block bolts should be the same unless there's a considerable difference in the thickness of a T5 bellhousing vs T56? I went with ARP 129-0901 mainly because I was hoping the smaller hex size would make it easier to deal with the driver side bolts being close to the transmission tunnel.

Not sure if a T5 mount is the same, but I went with a rubber LS1 style T56 mount (1998-2002 f-body). Not crazy about polyurethane mounts, probably because I don't have anything that makes enough power to really benefit from them. I imagine you'll want rubber for a cruiser.

If you get flywheel bolts, make sure they're for a 1-piece rear main SBC / LT1. At least with ARP, the bolt heads will be too large and you can't fit a socket on it if you accidentally get 2-piece rear main bolts.

Not a bad time to pick up a torque arm bushing unless you already have a polyurethane one you can transfer over or the T56's is in good shape.

I used a 4th gen 6 speed boot for the floor, but only made the hole as big as it needed to be to clear the shifter rather than make a hole big enough for the boot. Just used some small weatherstripping foam from Home Depot to make sure it seals along with a hammer to persuade the shifter boot into the shape of the floor since it's a metal ring encased in rubber.

I used the Dakota Digital and Samoco boxes on mine and they work wonderfully. I went along with muscling into reverse at first but that got old quick. And it just feels wrong to be pushing on the shifter that hard.

 

you'll likely find that the $200 clutch/pp from Summit will be the exact same as one of the $120ish clutch sets from RA. They all appear to be the same old Valeo casting.

If the PP doesn't have evidence of balancing, best to get it spun before assembling.

there's a spring in the reverse lockout that can be trimmed to reduce the effort required to override it. you can trim a little at a time until you're comfortable with it, and not use the solenoid/switch.

if you change your starter, the LT1 style is vastly superior to stock and 1/2 the weight as well. worth the cost difference in ease of install alone.

 

I have 3rd gen pedals and 4th gen master/slave.The stroke was too long and the clutch fork would rub on the pressure plate.At first I used a 3/8 nut on each slave mounting stud and it worked,but I then swapped the slave for a slave cylinder for a late 80's cavalier and it works perfect.A member on here suggested the cavalier slave cylinder a few years back.

 

Ok, so the parts are now flooding in, thanks for everyone's help and suggestions.

LT1/TA brings up a good point. I am planning on using the stock 3rd gen pedals with the stock 4th gen hydros and either moving the stud on the pedal arm to mimic the geometry of the 4th gen pedal, or simply installing a stop to avoid over stroking the master and rubbing the fork on the pressure plate. The question is how to visually confirm full engagement/disengagement? That will tell me limits of travel for the clutch pedal.