Flywheel questions
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Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 187
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From: Keyport, WA
Car: 98 Z28
Engine: 346 LS1
Transmission: 6 spd.
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 4.11
Flywheel questions
Okay, there was a mysterious knocking noise coming from under my car and I found out that it was being caused by three little cracks about an inch long coming from the center bolts to the round holes midway out the flywheel. Just wondering what could happen if I drive the car like this for a coupla weeks? Also, has anyone ever replaced a flywheel and how long did it take? I know you either drop the tranny or pull the engine
(not a fan of either). How long does it take to drop a 700r4 and put it back? Thanks.
(not a fan of either). How long does it take to drop a 700r4 and put it back? Thanks. Hiya,
It costs me just under $200 to have my flywheel changed. I've had it done a few times now, and you can drive it for quite some time, surprisingly. The noise you hear is the flywheel rubbing against itself at the crack lines.
Get it done when you can. And as for dropping the tranny - those 700R4's weigh quit a bit and it's a PITA to work under there. Then trying to get that crossmember bar/bracket back into place is the worst.
It costs me just under $200 to have my flywheel changed. I've had it done a few times now, and you can drive it for quite some time, surprisingly. The noise you hear is the flywheel rubbing against itself at the crack lines.
Get it done when you can. And as for dropping the tranny - those 700R4's weigh quit a bit and it's a PITA to work under there. Then trying to get that crossmember bar/bracket back into place is the worst.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Your 700 doesn't have a flywheel, it has a flex plate.
If you like feet, and if you enjoy knowing that the car is going to continue to push itself around, I'd swap it as soon as possible (like, tonight) if it was mine.
You don't have to "drop" the trans, you only have to pull it rearward about 2". Put 2 real long bolts in 2 of the bell housing places, support it with a jack, take out all the rest of the bolts and undo the lines and the TC bolts, and slide it back. Then you can get at the flex plate bolts.
If you like feet, and if you enjoy knowing that the car is going to continue to push itself around, I'd swap it as soon as possible (like, tonight) if it was mine.
You don't have to "drop" the trans, you only have to pull it rearward about 2". Put 2 real long bolts in 2 of the bell housing places, support it with a jack, take out all the rest of the bolts and undo the lines and the TC bolts, and slide it back. Then you can get at the flex plate bolts.
I agree with the above, but would like to suggest that you mark your old flexplate before you remove the last bolt. Since the
bolts are not evenly spaced around the crank flange, it is sometimes hard to get the bolts to screw into the crank flange.
If the old one is marked, and you put the new one on top of the old one with the bolt holes lined up and mark it like you did the
old one, putting it on right the first time is easy.
Hopefully the Camaro has enough room to pull the tranny back
far enough to take the bolts out. I don't know what year you have, but the older, two-piece seal engines took an 11/16"
wrench about 12" long to do this job easily.
bolts are not evenly spaced around the crank flange, it is sometimes hard to get the bolts to screw into the crank flange.
If the old one is marked, and you put the new one on top of the old one with the bolt holes lined up and mark it like you did the
old one, putting it on right the first time is easy.
Hopefully the Camaro has enough room to pull the tranny back
far enough to take the bolts out. I don't know what year you have, but the older, two-piece seal engines took an 11/16"
wrench about 12" long to do this job easily.
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