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Does anyone know what size bellhousing torx bit I need to get the bellhousing off? We can see metal peices in the pump shaft.. I'm trying to take this thing off
Does anyone know what size bellhousing torx bit I need to get the bellhousing off? We can see metal peices in the pump shaft.. I'm trying to take this thing off
The bell housing bolts are a Torx-Plus TP-50. DO NOT use a regular T-50 bit; those bolts are pretty tight, IIRC.
When installed the torque converter will be pulled towards the engine about 3/8" when bolted to the flexplate.
If you pull the converter out a little, does it still seize?
When installed the torque converter will be pulled towards the engine about 3/8" when bolted to the flexplate.
If you pull the converter out a little, does it still seize?
Well, fully seated into the trans is not where it is going to run. So I would say you should be good to go.
I could tighten up the last flywheel bolt because it kept getting seized... I though the converter was suppose to seat all the way on the transmission?
Also, do I have to take the bellhousing off to take the pump out?
We got the pump off without taking bellhousing off.. and the pump is trashed.. I received it like this.
My father said he would just replace the pump and go with it.. He did some other test with the gears and things without tearing transmission down and feel comfortable just replacing pump. No signs of wear on drum, and no metal in oil pan..
He was concerned about the color of the drum but we saw no grinding of metal or signs of wear
We got the pump off without taking bellhousing off.. and the pump is trashed.. I received it like this.
My father said he would just replace the pump and go with it.. He did some other test with the gears and things without tearing transmission down and feel comfortable just replacing pump. No signs of wear on drum, and no metal in oil pan..
I see an awful lot of missing metal here , a couple of pump vanes and a big chunk of the hub that turns the vanes , where exactly is the missing metal ? Did you remove it for the photo or were those parts missing when you opened it ?
If I didn't know where that much metal went there is no way I'd be just replacing the pump without finding the remains of the missing pieces ....
... I though the converter was suppose to seat all the way on the transmission?
It does although when you're actually ready to do the bolts up on the flexplate, you draw the converter towards the engine about a 1/4" or so. Technically it isn't bottomed out in the trans but you have to get it that far to know that it's seated properly.
Seems as though you've found your problem. A busted pump vane (it looks busted anyway) isn't all that uncommon. When I rebuilt the latest 4L60, I went with a billet vane. If for nothing other than piece of mind.
I see an awful lot of missing metal here , a couple of pump vanes and a big chunk of the hub that turns the vanes , where exactly is the missing metal ? Did you remove it for the photo or were those parts missing when you opened it ?
If I didn't know where that much metal went there is no way I'd be just replacing the pump without finding the remains of the missing pieces ....
Originally Posted by skinny z
It does although when you're actually ready to do the bolts up on the flexplate, you draw the converter towards the engine about a 1/4" or so. Technically it isn't bottomed out in the trans but you have to get it that far to know that it's seated properly.
Seems as though you've found your problem. A busted pump vane (it looks busted anyway) isn't all that uncommon. When I rebuilt the latest 4L60, I went with a billet vane. If for nothing other than piece of mind.
The metal was in the pump assembly shaft, and some was inside the pump itself. We got the pieces. Nothing is missing..
A billet vane, It sounds expensive but definitely sounds like the way to go... I may roll the dice and just replace the pump though..
Last edited by 86iroc504; Jan 20, 2020 at 08:22 PM.
A billet vane, It sounds expensive but definitely sounds like the way to go... I may roll the dice and just replace the pump though..
I guess the cost is relative. I went the full monty on this latest rebuild. About the only thing not addressed were the input and output shafts.
Here's a link to the billet pump vane. http://www.tcsproducts.com/products/...ne-pump-rotor/
I doubt you would ever be able to spin it fast enough to turn the output shaft, even if the transmission was "in gear".
The converter would have to be filled with fluid, as well as every circuit in the transmission.
Remember, an auto transmission operates by fluid flow.
I see an awful lot of missing metal here , a couple of pump vanes and a big chunk of the hub that turns the vanes , where exactly is the missing metal ? Did you remove it for the photo or were those parts missing when you opened it ?
