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I had the Hawks 8.8 for about a year and a half now. Finally blowing the dust off it and the car. The rear is now in the 86 Z. I have lowered it 1” and adjusted the pan hard to get the axle centered. I had the BMR non adjustable torque arm. It was up against the driveshaft tunnel. Calling BMR and telling them what I have they recommended their 299 adjustable torque. Looking into it today it clears better but still no enough. Has any one else seen this issue, heard of it, know what I could be missing? The axle is obviously out of correct angle but that it certainly not it. There is a solid interference. Hawks really added a ton of real estate from stock location. Kinda dumb...
I should add I am using the bolt holes that move arm closer to the passenger side Notice the dent about an inch toward the front of vehicle. This is from the solid arm. The adjustable offers the second set of holes and fits a little better.
You will find that most manufactures of aftermarket torque arms tell you to cut off that set of holes. UMI does and I believe BMR does as well. There are some you-tube videos that show folks doing this, LSXMatt to be one of them. There are a few threads here that detail this modifications as well.
You will find that most manufactures of aftermarket torque arms tell you to cut off that set of holes. UMI does and I believe BMR does as well.
I would agree and looked into it. However in my pic you can see I am already lined up to the bolt holes furthest in. Using the other holes would put me further into the tunnel. The cutting comes into play when the bracket stops you from inserting onto the diff deep enough. Not the case here. No cutting needed for my set-up.
I'm thinking they took the pinion/carrier offset out of that rear. Is your driveshaft in line with the tail of tran or does the ds angle towards the pass side? If its inline, when that rear was built, they build it without the offset. This makes the pumpkin closer to the drivers side tunnel. Just a thought.
I know you can buy just the mount from spohn, maybe that will help. They are tight, no doubt. I just built a 8.8. Check my thread out. Also made my own torque arm and mounts.
another thought is your engine and trans mounts need addressing. When the back tail bolt is out on the tran, I can slide my tran a good inch either way.
But it looks like your problem is back by the pumpkin.
Looking again at that, that bracket needs to be a lot closer to the ds. There is like a quarter inch gap usually. Remember, you still have to fit bolts in there to hold the torque arm on. Something is definitely wrong.
Your also definitely going to want adjustable lcas. Aftermarket rears are never perfect. You need to be able to move rear for and aft just as you use your pan to adjust side to side.
Post more pics. Try and get a shot right up from the back so I can see the ds and how it lines up.
Looking again at that, that bracket needs to be a lot closer to the ds. There is like a quarter inch gap usually. Remember, you still have to fit bolts in there to hold the torque arm on. Something is definitely wrong.
My thoughts as well. Its so weird though. Pinion seems to be well favoring the passenger side. They just made the bracket on the rear so friggin big and far from the pinion yolk. I did notice the Spohn bracket. It seems to hand in front of the diff and not the driver side.
No motor, trans, or ds in car. Car is 33k original miles. Super clean. Gutted the drivetrain, updating it all, and going manual. LCA’s are adjustable. They currently match the stock length. Panhard is adjustable. Rear is centered based on fender to stud flange on axle. Previous pic shows the pinion favors the passenger side.
No motor, trans, or ds in car. Car is 33k original miles. Super clean. Gutted the drivetrain, updating it all, and going manual. LCA’s are adjustable. They currently match the stock length. Panhard is adjustable. Rear is centered based on fender to stud flange on axle. Previous pic shows the pinion favors the passenger side.
That mount is a hiltsy mount or a copy. I got mine from hiltsy himself off Ebay and are designed to locate torque arm in same place as the 10 bolt.
I know u can buy just the bracket as pictured above. Just dont know if that's going to fix. I'd measure some stuff and make some calls. See if other brackets are the same or different.
I plan to call around tomorrow. Last I heard Spohn was not back to work yet. The other question or observation about the Spohn bracket is that one of the holes is not slotted. As you adjust the turn buckle for pinion angle, the center line distant hole to hole on the torque arm changes. I do appreciate all the help.
Stock torque works fine. Wouldn't make sense to use it with the a lot of power and 4:10’s. Point is I should be able to make or buy something that will work. Just need to figure it out.
I've been emailing spohn today and they got back to me right away. Very prompt.
I understand your point. Just trying to help ya weed through it as I'm building mine and have been through every hoop that spon or other companies have been through. If your stock bolts up fine, I'd say 100% its that bracket.
Hope ya figure it out.
Hawks just called. They have installed many of these rears. Very few, especially when lowered will clear. The influencer and I will check things out tonight.
Your going to beet the tunnel?? I'd almost rather just run the stock torque arm if it fits before I beat the tunnel on my car. Just seems like a very hacking way to do it. But it's not my car.
I agree. Not the path I was desiring. I spent a-lot of time verifying everything today. Started with an angle finder from body and frame to rear. With nothing in the car and just the torque arm bracket, it was hard to see I let the rear roll to far forward. Having the variable level helped a ton. Rolling it back, it goes together a whole lot nicer.
