Ive got a 87 with a 305. Hooker heads y pipe straight out the side. Edelbrock carb. That's all so far. I plan to do a 4th gen rear 3.23 but it has the stock 2.73 (I believe it's 2.73. It's 2 something) anywho. I hear say putting an S10 converter with the 700r4 would up the butt dyno power. It's a daily driven not made to be fast but made to be fun car. What would putting a higher stall converter do for drivability though? As well would it improve anything? The issue I'm trying to solve is when I slap the throttle the lil 305 runs pretty hard. Till it shifts into 2nd. And falls right on its face. Hard. Till it gets back up in RPM that is. So in the few small races I get into. From a dig I'm in front. Shift to 2nd they fly past.

 

The S10 converter might help.
What you're talking about between 1-2nd gear is the 700r4 gearing:
https://www.dieselhub.com/trans/th700r4.html
Pretty well known issue with these trans

 

so what's the solution? Launch in 2nd and pray lol

 

Honestly - different transmission is the solution.

 

Damn. Now that you said that I legally have to put a powerglide in it. How will I break he news to my wife.

 

A taller set of Differential Gears (like 3.42:1 or 3.55:1) and a higher stall-speed Torque Converter (2,800 to 3,200 RPM) would improve the acceleration in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears.

 

I plan to do 4th gen rear with 3.23 limited and about a 2100 stall. Still need some drivability.

 

I have an S10 converter, maybe 2200-2300 stall, 3.73s, and shift kit. Currently a 350 but had same setup on my L03 and it worked very well out of the hole even with the lil 305 it would light tires up and jump a lot of cars. Zero driveability issues that small a converter but huge seat of pants improvement.

 

Increased Stall-Speed does not equal a loss of drivability.

The ONLY time that a loss of drivability is found... is when using a relatively Cheap Torque-Converter from places like B&M that only cost $300 - $400.
One of the components that you should NEVER go cheap on... is the Torque-Converter.
Many people make this mistake and end-up with the completely WRONG idea about High Stall-Speed Torque-Converters.

There are many factors that effect the way in which a Torque-Converter will behave/ perform.
Stall-Speed and Diameter are only the start... there is much more going on... the STR is a major factor that people are starting to learn about... and More!

Even with a stock 3rd-Gen engine... Compare a 3,000 RPM Stall-Speed unit costing $350 from B&M to a 3,000 RPM Stall-Speed unit costing $800 from FTI, Circle-D, Edge, Etc...
These two different Torque-Converters perform like night and day... There is NO comparison... They are so incredibly different.

The cheap TC feels loose all the time and cost low-speed torque...
Meanwhile the expensive TC behaves just like a STOCK TC until you peg the Throttle! Now the TC performs like a rabid-animal, with the vehicle accelerating much faster.
Not to mention that the TC can be locked at a low RPM for cruising down the expressway... Lock it up in 4th gear at 2,200 RPM... even with a Stall-Speed of 3,500 RPM!

Also just so you know... the Differential Gear-Set and the TC go hand and hand.
They work together as a team to accelerate the vehicle.

 

Well.... ****. I was just gonna get a oem replace S10 converter. They're like 200...

Also. Can If they go hand in hand do I have to do them both at the same time or can I do converter then rear end.

 

My S10 converter is a cheapo Dayco IIRC $160. Not a real high HP engine we are talking about here as far as stock Thirdgen engines so they work just fine. ALL my old friends and I with Thirdgens have ran S10 converters since the 90s. Now If I had a turbo LS sure Id be looking into something better but for up to a 300HP engine believe me the S10 converter works fine. Been running mine probably 6-7 yrs. Id run atleast 3.23-3.73 gears though. 3.42s in my opinion are the best gear for these cars but I like my 3.73s also. I turn 2200-2300rpms @ 60mph.

 

Just to be clear... I never said that a cheap Torque-Converter would not work.

What I did say; is that the behavior and performance of an expensive Torque-Converter is significantly better than a cheap TC.

I have been able to do in-house testing; on my Chassis Dynamometer and Transmission Run-Stand for the last 9 years...
Testing everything from Stock to $30,000 Neal-Chance Torque-Converters used in NHRA Pro-Modified.


After hundreds of Torque-Converters that I have sold from a dozen different companies...
Not one customer has said that they would go back to a cheap TC, after experiencing a proper TC in the $700 - $800 range and up.

 

Both do not need to be done at the same time...

It is just simply ideal to have both done at some point, to achieve the full potential of what the combination of the parts provide.