Looking for anyone running tru trac with opinions. Seems like the ideal setup for street car.
Currently I'm running dana 44 with a detroit locker. I've become to despise it. Clunking banging, and I'm fairly sure it's amplifying my wheelhop issue (never had with stock rear). Also thinking of going to 3.92 gear over the 3.54.
thanks

 

I just put one in my 70birds 12bolt. Haven't driven it yet.
aren't they pretty similar to the torson diffs in the 4thgens?

 

I have one in my S60, best I can tell it may as well not even be there. I can do a full lock turn smoothly, power out of a corner with full confidence, if I hop on it from a standstill there's very little drama, rolling burnouts are straight and require very little input to keep it that way. Honestly, I get more posi wiggle in my '23 with a regular clutch type differential.

I've never seen a bit of wheel hop either, but that may be due to the fact I have the entire UMI catalog keeping my car off the ground and paid for a by-the-hour alignment.

 

That'd be the need for control arm relocation brackets. More or less a universal situation in these cars regardless of what rear is in them.

That's not all that much difference, butt who knows, it might. Kinda depends on what the car is used for, what the rest of the drive train is, etc. Won't have any material effect on wheel hop, might even make it worse.

Yup, same basic principle. Worm gears instead of clutches. That's why they don't chatter and groan and all that, and otherwise generally work much more smoothly than clutches. Again, no material effect on wheel hp though, that's a suspension geometry matter, easily corrected by LCARBs.

 

Why was there no wheelhop with the factory limited slip? It has LCA relocation brackets, tried in every hole. Koni yellows tried on every setting. 3 different sets of tires, all at various pressures. Stil hops.
If i dump the clutch from a stand still it wont until i grab the next gear. If im on a roll and hit it, it gets violent soon as tires get a little heat. It feels almost as if the natural tooth slop in the detroit is causing a load-unload condition.
t56 with .62 6th gear. With 275 rubber i seldom use 6th gear.
Just a fun street toy

 

:shrug:

Can't say, I wasn't there.

In any case, wheel hop in these cars isn't a drive train problem. It's a suspension problem. It's caused by the instant center being located too low and/or too far forward (mostly too low). Torque arm properties - not only the arm itself, butt the height it's mounted to the rear at, and the location of the end up by the transmission - can also contribute.

As an FYI, the instant center of the stock suspension design ("slider" front TA mount, LCAs below the rear axle) is where the line between the control arm bolts intersects a vertical line through the TA mount where the TA slides in it. If you have the style of TA with a link at the front that looks a bit like a leaf spring shackle, with 2 joints of some sort, it works the same way. However, with that style of mount, if the TA is even just slightly too long or too short, the link won't be within the range that it can articulate through properly, and it will bind up, and no telling what will happen then.

Not the posi no matter what.

 

How did you solve it? I'm open to changes. I've tried every adjustment possible

 

true trac, and 4.10s from 3.42s

these are all friends, no im not just being a jerk to random people.
we left an event, hence the burn out

 

LCARBs

I don't have a Dana 44 (not in a 3rd gen F body anyway) so I'm not sure what you're actually dealing with, other than, it's NOT the posi.

I had some other weird things going on after I swapped to a T-56, involving my torque arm (Spohn); wasn't hard to fix though. I seem to recall it involved drilling the bars that made the link and using different bolts, butt it's been over 20 years now, so my CRS disease is kicking in.

In your case, since you changed the rear butt not the TA, I'd look REAL CLOSE at the front of the TA, and make double damn sure it's COMPLETELY free to articulate; that is, not already at one end or the other (probably pushed toward the front?) of its motion.

 

Wheel hop is a function of the interaction between suspension and traction. It's the tires loosing and gaining traction w the suspension loading/unloading due to the geometry. LCA brackets will absolutely help significantly. That said, an open diff will have less wheel hop than a traction adding diff. Think of the one wheel peel w a skinny tire. Lots of spinning w poor traction and usually minimal wheel hop. Add 2 fat sticky tires the potential for hop goes up w lousy geometry. Add a posi/locker the potential goes up more w poor geometry. Also think about both tires hopping in the case of a posi/locked diff vs one tire hopping w an open diff.

the worm type diffs are low maintenance and typically not as tight as a clutch diff. I have an auburn race diff in my 9 inch. It's really tight. It's held up to some serious abuse w a set of sticky 305s in the rear. Will it be as tight in 10-20k miles, no. A worm gear setup is much more constant and maintenance free(ish)

I had some pretty severe wheel hop while setting up my suspension initially. I had all the parts on but needed to dial it all in. The LCA relocation combined w an adjustable torque arm and adjustable LCAs and good tires resolved it. It's amazing what a couple of degrees here and there will help. I also went w rotojoints everywhere vs poly/heims. Poly can really bind and heims are heims.


depending on your trans, they're may or may not be a difference between 3.54 vs 3.90s. Trans ratios and engine rpm range play a massive role in this.

 

The dana is a direct replacement with lcarb's on it already. Tried in all positions. All heim joints in rear suspension. ( Midwest chassis components). Swing shackle at front of torque arm is vertical ( straight up and down) at rideheight. Appears to move freely through suspension cycle.


A am gonna attempt to film some how what it's actually doing. It feels like wheelhop. But the locker has soo much lash in the teeth, im wondering if the loading/unloadong is exadurating the issue.

Thanks for everyones input

 

I had a Detroit Locker many years ago. Hated it. It's for people that believe in mythical creatures like unicorns and street/strip cars.

 

back to beat this dead horse. Here's the angle at now, would it be recommended to try and get angle even lowes somehow or is it more a problem of corelation of lower control arms vs torque arm angle now? Obviously I'm out of adjustment here, but I guess I could drill one more set lower.
I did check my 4th gen. That's all stock geometry. Lower control arms have a negative angle (arms go upword to axle housing). I have 0 wheelhop issues with that car though.