I'm being called a ***** because I have a GTA with an automatic, and I like it that way.

Apparently I'd get smoked if another GTA just like mine had a stick instead of the auto in both autocross and strip situations.

I've also been told that it's smarter to keep the automatic in case I ever want to look into a turbo, because I won't suffer from turbo lag at high levels.

I was also told that after the engine passes 5.0L, the differences between a manual and an automatic won't really be all that noticable.

Is swapping the 700R4 for a manual more than what it's worth? I'm not sure what to believe at this point.



*Click the WWW button on the bottom for the car. It has a 700R4 transmission.*

 

its only cost me around 1750 to switch from auto to 6speeed manual. not 3-5k

 

dont swap cuz some ignoramus cant tell an american car from some jap sheeeeeit. thats #1. swap because you want to shift manually thats #2 what things are "worth" is highly subjective and it comes down to only you and what you want to do, the rest dont matter. im swappin to a richmond now but will gladly put the 700 back in real quick if the spunkgulper will man up and call me a "*****" too. only once

 

my swap is only gonna cost me about $500

 

Auto's are great, especially for racing. Have your 700 worked and see if they can outshift it.

 

you're a ***** because you have an auto???? LMFAO!! who the hell told you that???

Also i'd take an auto over a manual for the track ANYDAY! Autocross is different story.

As for the turbo you're probably better of with the auto as well...now i'm not sure with the bigger displacement motors(ie. 305 350 etc) but with the buick 3.8 a manual is pointless, maybe a bigger engine would be able to keep the spool up between shifts, not really sure

But like stated earlier to hell with what other people say, do what u'd like, you could alway go with a manual valve body and a B&M megashifter for your 700r4, its almost the same

Tell those people that are calling u a ***** to come run me with my "*****-like" automatic...

 

Swaps aren't cheap but aren't $3.5K either.


Used T-56: $1000-$1500 with the pedals, etc.

Parts: (you may want to replace some other wearing parts)

Clutch & PP: >$500 for a good one (READ: not autozone)

Trans X-member and Torque arm: $100-$350


then if you have a mechanical speedo you have to do something about that to get it to work tight.

trying too lowball soemthing like this will dissapoint you. I'm sure you could just put all the used items onto your car but you might as well do it right the first time and be done with it.

If you're going to a T-5 then the complications are less. And if you have a elctric speedo with a T-56 then it's easier too.

 

"you could alway go with a manual valve body and a B&M megashifter for your 700r4, its almost the same."

Yup, then u get the best of both, u can even just manually shift the stock Auto.

 

I think manual valvebody's are excellent for AutoX. In fact I have a Full Manual TH350. It can out shift the best manual any day. There's NO lag between gears, and of course this can be brutal on your drive train, but you controll the shifts. You what to start in 2nd, so you don't lose control, no problem cause you control the shifts. You what to go from 1st to 3rd, no problem caus.......

...As far as dropping one of these for a daily driver is if'y.

Ron

 

who has the best deal on ful manual conversions for 700r4 ? in 82- 84* ? at least i suppose my 700r4 has never been replaced anyways.. lol i dunno how to know for sure really, hmmm
full manual auto would be great in a HO 305 3.73 Z28 !

thanks!

 

transgo

i believe TCI makes em as well

 

Remember there's a couple of types. The conversion like you said, or the whole valvebody.

The B&M ManualPak is a conversion kit that requires you to use template to drill many holes into your stock valvebody. This is probably going to happen with the transgo kit, and TCI kit. Now I don't have experience with the TCI or Transgo kits, but the B&M is a one way street with the TH-350 at least. Once you start drilling there’s no going back.
Sooo- if this is a concern you might elect to go with the whole valvebody.
Cost difference is maybe 80-120 for a conversion, and at least twice that for the whole valvebody.


Ron