Ok I took the platinums out and put in some regular plugs. Started it and there seems to be a louder ticking noise from the r/side, either the supposed manifold leak magicaly got worse or I didn't seat one of the plugs in all the way, or something. Have a headache, look at it tomorrow. So then I hooked up the timing light. Hmmm the TDC mark isn't showing up, oh yeah, unhook that one wire. Restart car, ok let's just try this agai.."20 DEGREES, WHAT THE -=--!" Back it off to about 11. That was better. Idled smooth. Went for a drive, and it seemed a little like it was starting to slowdown like last time just before it died. Anyway it made it back, but just seemed a little sluggish, that and the exhaust was sounding louder which it either got worse or the engine is making weird sounds. Or both.
I'll check the timing again tomorrow to make sure the dist isn't moving, but it should be tight enough. I can barely turn it to adjust the timing. Last time I messed with the timing I did it by ear and couldn't get it right so I gave up, hence the 20* I bet.

now here's a couple of things I'm wondering about.
Is there a certain gap the reluctor fingers need to be at or just make them as close as possible without touching? And would dielectric grease mess up the connection between the plug and the wire if there was some on the metal.?

My injectors are really messing me up too I just know it.

 

I just made mine as close as possible. I used a valve adjustment feeler gauge to secure the same distance between the reluctor and the pole pieces. Then I spun the shaft once, so all the fingers lined up with the magnets "one over", and made sure the distance was the same. The closer the distance, the stronger the pulse is that the pick up coil "feels", and the longer your distributor will hold that strong pulse.

20 degrees.. wow... glad to hear you got it somewhere near spec! Did you try checking the exhaust manifold and manifold-to-y-pipe bolts to see if they're really loose?

 

When you move the distrib, try to get it loose. I mean a good couple of turns of the bolt. that way it moves easily. Did you reconnect the ESC wire afterwards? did you clear the codes? I have never had a problem with setting mine. 12-13 runs like a dream...

 

Yep reconnected the wire. How do you reset the codes. Just learned how to read them, but to reset? Is it also possible for the module to get hot enough to lose power or make the car die? Seems like the more of a load it gets when going up hill, the more I notice power loss. When it died last week I'd been going up hill for maybe a mile at 60mph in 3rd gear. I'll try that drive again tomorrow and if it starts acting up I'll disconnect the 6A and see what happens.

 

Just unhook the neg cable for a couple minutes. I think technically you can just unhook it for 10 seconds or so. Make sure you go for a drive at highway speeds after doing this, so the computer can re-learn the engine. I usually drive a half hour away at highway speeds- which means i have to drive a half hour at highway speeds to come back- and that usually does it for my car. Otherwise, your car will idle like crap "in traffic", and you'll wonder what broke.

Did the ticking noise go away? Was it a loose spark plug?

 

The better way to clear codes is taking out the ECM fuse. That way you donot have to reset everything on your car like the sterio presets, the clock(I know mine is a BIATCH to set).... Red 10 Amp. Marked on fuse panel. Remove for a min or two.

 

modular-go AC
timing chain
lack of compression
Old age.
Really could be combo of...