*edit*

 

Easy to do....

Step one: Dynomax cat back and Catco High Flow Converter


Step two: K&N Conical setup, Custom Pro, 160 thermo, Crank Pulley

Step three: Lower control arms and MSD Coil and MSD Wires and Complete Tune Up

Step four: Gears and a posi.. I would go 4.10's, but most here will say 3.73


Step five: Crane 2030 Cam and double roller timming chain and boon easy mid 15's...

 

Thanks, but how much will this stuff cost?

 

First off 4.10's would never work in our cars unless you dont plan on going over 50MPH. That would kill the little of top end power we already have.

Hypertech Thermo Chip w/160 stat;$175.00(install $50)
Jet Underdrive Pulleys;$85.00(install w/belt $50)
Dynomax Catback Exhaust $165.00(install $45)
Dynomax Cat-Converter;$120.00(install $55.00)
Custom Made K&N CAI;$35.00(Did it Myself!!!)
MSD 6A ignition W/coil;$160.00(Did it Myself!!)
Crane CompuCam;$160.00(install $700)
CompCams 1.52 Roller Rockers;$120.00(install w/cam)
Hooker Super Competition Headers; $150.00(install $575.00 w/y-pipe)
Price for fixing Cam installation screw-up;est. $300.00(That sucks)

Hoping to run Mid-15s with spending that kind of cash like I did....... Priceless.......Hold on a minute it sucks!

I removed the back seats of my car too, when my car is getting the headers in on Wednesday (less than a week away) I'm telling him if he has any problems with the install with the air remove it.

I will have new times and my opinion on the headers and the re-do cam fix with in a few weeks, I told the guy to take his time. I dont want the car back if it still ticks!!!

I dont think it is that easy to run mid 15's. Dont set yourself up for a big disapointment.

 

Crane CompuCam;$160.00(install $700)
CompCams 1.52 Roller Rockers;$120.00(install w/cam) , Install if you shop around tops 500....


Anyway 4.10's will work in the 1/4... Suck on the highway after 105ish...

 

Brian K, around Green Bay there is not many people who do performance work. So that is why it costed that much. Plus I forgot to add in the 125.00 for a full gasket set. I lived in Sarasota for awhile, and down in Florida labor is cheap compared to Wisconsin.

I have the stock 3.23's and when your going about 100 the RPMs start to max out. I really dont think 4.10's would work. I purchased 3.73's for my auto, and was told my cruising speed at 65 MPH would be a tad above 3,000 in overdrive! I would hate to see how high it would be with 4.10's.

 

if I was to do all of the above mods, how much power would be added?

and how much would it cost to have the 3.73 gears installed? any idea what kind I have now?

 

 

jaren bon jovi actaully 4.10's arent that bad...

if u had a 4.10
in Drive 70mph = 4100 RPM...
and in OD 2500RPM will be 68 mph approx...

it dosnet suck that bad...unless its a higway driver most of hte time...

if u had a 3.37
in Drive 70mph = 3300 RPM
in OD 2500RPM will be 75mph approx

 

Mid 15's bah! I have a Crane 2030cam,headers,dynomax catback,cold air,accell coil an wires, hypertech pulley's and 3.73's and I only got 16.0. My goal was 15's, but I only got there a few times and that was with a corrected ET.

 

I couldn't imagine running 4.10's either, never mind 3.73's. I don't know about you guys...but cruising down the highway at 80mph my rpms are at about 2800, 3000 RPMS....from what I know I should still have the stock 3.23's. I couldn't imagine putting in anything higher and thinking about going 75, 80 on the highway and watching the rpms grind away at 3500, or 4000 rpms....and watching the gas needle drop. 'Cause thats about what'll happen with higher gears right?

 

the kid stated this car is his daily driver, 4.10's aren't very good daily driver gears

what rear is in there now? 3.23's?

start wtih your basics, get the exhaust done...do a little intake work(port it if u can, i don't know the 2.8/3.1 intakes too well) and stick wtih a cam proven to work and get a chip burnt for it..after that get some times, then take it from there, play with the timing a bit, play with the fuel a bit...just think if you're running 15's you'll be beating some LO3's,pretty cool for a 3.1

 

3.73's will run you $200 for gears, $200 for installation. Best/cheapest route would be to swap your axle for a mid-80's 2.8 with automatic; you're guaranteed a 3.42 rear gear.

SAESpinz, what size rear tires do you have?? Sounds like you're running a lower (numerically higher) gear than a 3.23. I don't remember being at 2800 RPM @ 80MPH in overdrive when my 3.73/posi/disc axle was alive.

Man, I gotta fix that thing. Stupid Eaton gov-lock! Maybe I'll try to throw my other axle's open rear into it, then, at least I can get the 3.73's and disc brakes back. (Yes, I have two axles in the backyard... sigh... my "restored and then broken" 3.73/posi/disc from an '84, and my original 1986's 3.42/open/drum with a snapped pinion shaft lock-bolt.)

 

TomP, I am running 235/60/15's Dunlop GT Qualifiers. And 2800 rpms always seemed kinda high to me too, and I've never personally changed the gears. So I don't know for "sure" whats in there. But considering they are 235's, I can break the tire loose from a standstill w/o powerbraking...and thats a pretty wide tire.

I can remember my haynes manual haveing a chart in it correlating part numbers that you could find from under the car...to the gear ratio that you have. well since then I lost my manual...anyone know what I am talking about?

But how can I found out what gears I am running?? I am curious if they really are the stock 3.23's? Or if someone else changed them....my RPO codes say it came from the factory with 3.23's which makes sense....any easy way to figure out if someone changed them?

 

3.42s sound like they would be much better for my situation

Thanks.