Need 3.4 code help bad!
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From: Kansas City, MO
Car: 83 Z28
Engine: 406
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9" with 4.10s
Need 3.4 code help bad!
As my car sits up waiting for some parts to come in, I have my brothers 96 Monte Z-34. Figures that every time I have something of his it breaks.
The ses light is on and the car is very sluggish. From my experience, I would think that it is possibly the TPS. If I jump on it WOT, it hesistates.
This morning the SES light was actually blinking at me when the car was running after about 5 minutes. When the car originally was started, the ses was on solid. It blinked for a mile, then went back to solid.
I'm hoping that Autozone or someone will be able to pull the codes for me since it is an OBD-II and I can not jumper it to get codes, so I hear.
Any help is apprieciated!
The ses light is on and the car is very sluggish. From my experience, I would think that it is possibly the TPS. If I jump on it WOT, it hesistates.
This morning the SES light was actually blinking at me when the car was running after about 5 minutes. When the car originally was started, the ses was on solid. It blinked for a mile, then went back to solid.
I'm hoping that Autozone or someone will be able to pull the codes for me since it is an OBD-II and I can not jumper it to get codes, so I hear.
Any help is apprieciated!
On OBDII cars, a blinking SES light usually indicates a P0300, engine misfire detected. The blinking usually means that there is an ignition failure on 1 or more cylinders. The lack of spark means that raw fuel is going straight into the catalytic converter and enough fuel can ruin the converter. The ECM's second highest priority is to protect the catalytic converter.
I have seen a blinking SES light with a stuck closed/clogged injector also, though. The reasoning behind the blinking is that people tend to drive even with an SES light on, so it flashes to get your attention.
Tracing an igntion miss is easier than a fuel miss. You can get a spark tester and test each wire individually, or use a DVOM and check the resistance of the wire pairs(1 and 4, 2 and 5, 3 and 6).
Put one lead in the end of wire #1 and the other lead in the end of wire #4. Resistance should be no higher than approx. 40 kOhms.
Testing injectors is another story though. I usually use a tool like the first one shown here: http://www.mytoolstore.com/toolaid/diagn02.html
I have seen a blinking SES light with a stuck closed/clogged injector also, though. The reasoning behind the blinking is that people tend to drive even with an SES light on, so it flashes to get your attention.
Tracing an igntion miss is easier than a fuel miss. You can get a spark tester and test each wire individually, or use a DVOM and check the resistance of the wire pairs(1 and 4, 2 and 5, 3 and 6).
Put one lead in the end of wire #1 and the other lead in the end of wire #4. Resistance should be no higher than approx. 40 kOhms.
Testing injectors is another story though. I usually use a tool like the first one shown here: http://www.mytoolstore.com/toolaid/diagn02.html
Last edited by CaliCamaroRS; Jun 24, 2002 at 07:51 PM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 662
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City, MO
Car: 83 Z28
Engine: 406
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9" with 4.10s
Good info!!
I just went and measured the resistance over all the coil packs. They all were under 7K.
I measures the front 3 wires, they were all under 2K.
I pulled the plugs and found out that at 65k, they have never been changed. (More than Likely)
Before all this I went to Autozone and they ran diag on it. It came up as #2 missfiring. The gap on plug 2 was over 0.70. I went and replaced the front three plugs and the code went away. I am about to go test drive it now.
As far as the back 3, FT. On the 3.4 Monte's, the back 3 are covered by the intake manifold. To hell with all that. I got my own stuff to work on.
I just went and measured the resistance over all the coil packs. They all were under 7K.
I measures the front 3 wires, they were all under 2K.
I pulled the plugs and found out that at 65k, they have never been changed. (More than Likely)
Before all this I went to Autozone and they ran diag on it. It came up as #2 missfiring. The gap on plug 2 was over 0.70. I went and replaced the front three plugs and the code went away. I am about to go test drive it now.
As far as the back 3, FT. On the 3.4 Monte's, the back 3 are covered by the intake manifold. To hell with all that. I got my own stuff to work on.
Hehe, well I was right about the ignition missfire but I didn't expect an improperly gapped plug. Well , lucky for you it was a cylinder on the front side.
I forget which years, but there a some DOHC 3.4's where the back plugs ARE accessable.
So you measured the front 3 wires individually, right? In that case, 1 wire shouldn't be higher than 3,000 Ohms per foot.....so you're OK.
Congrats on finding the problem.
Just hope you never have to replace the alternator on that 3.4.
I forget which years, but there a some DOHC 3.4's where the back plugs ARE accessable.
So you measured the front 3 wires individually, right? In that case, 1 wire shouldn't be higher than 3,000 Ohms per foot.....so you're OK.
Congrats on finding the problem.
Just hope you never have to replace the alternator on that 3.4.
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