I have been trying to get my rebuilt engine to run perfectly. I thought it was due to a bad MAP sensor. When I stuck resistor in it telling it it was -10*C is ran fine until it got over 30*C. I replaced it now. I have a cam very similar to the 2030 for FI cars. Bored .20 over, HD silent timing chain. Compression is 182-185, if set the valve lash wrong it wouldn't be even and high , right?. All ignition replaced with stock components. It has always had a slight stumble. 1987 V6 auto, 2000km on rebuild

Symptoms;

No mat sensor (one by the air filter), replaced with resistor to tell ECM it's -10* always starts fine stays running, calm (but slightly stumbling) idle

with new mat sensor;

First crank of the day, you gotta tap the gas to keep it running. After 4 seconds you let go of the gas the rpms will drop to 550 (car is shaking violently, my not-bolted-on fender took flight) and eventually start running between 800-1000 rpm, 700 in drive.
water and carbon dripping out of exhuast, smells like running rich
Press the gas 1/2 throttle, car sliggishly starts going forward slowly then wakes up and starts spinning tires.

Set timing to 10*, engine backfires through tb when playing with throttle. Stopped backfiring when timing set to 14*. Still Backfired when on the road, under load.

The only way to garuntee a first start is to crank the MIN air screw 3/4 or more, start it, idle at 1500, go and slowly back out screw until idle is at 1000. But won't start the next day.

So I need help on setting the TB up on a modified engine. I cut and pasted the TA on seting min air and tps. I have a few questions embeded within, some of the article will be paraphrased to save space.

Short Aldl

*Turn on the ignition, but don't start the engine. Wait 30 *seconds. Now, go remove the connector from the IAC.

(IAC makes ticking noises)
I must assume that to take the jumper out of ALDL here. I'm told you never start your car in diagnostic mode.

*Set the idle speed to 450 rpm, rotating the Torx screw clockwise *to raise rpm, and counter-clockwise to lower rpm. Once the idle *rpm is set, turn off the engine.

My engine will not go below 550 rpm. With the egine warm you can take the screw out and the engine will be unhappy but running. I did this with timing at 10*. Does it make a diff how hot the engine is?

*Re-connect the connector onto the IAC. Start engine. Idle speed *is now once again governed by the ECM, but your idle should be *smooth and steady, approximately 600 rpm in Drive (for *unmodified cars).

I can get 600 rpm in drive, but in park the idle is erratic between 800-1200. my car is modified

*If you set an SES light by having the IAC disconnected, then *after shutting down the engine disconnect the negative battery *terminal. Wait 5 minutes. This will clear the ECM of all trouble *codes. Re-connect the battery and drive the car for 20 minutes *to allow the ECM to relearn your driving style.

Car isn't insured yet, so my driving style is floored (no kids, at night, good neigborhood) down my street and back again to my garage.

For the TPS, Haynes mentions disconnecting the MAF, why?, why is it exempt from the tech article? it also says TPS voltage should be 520-540mv, below what the TA says.


Do I need to drive the car (have it insured) to make this work out right? My cam didn't come with instructions.

TIA

 

Don't laugh
Alternator.
These things need 100% juice level.
Anything less and you got problems.
Put on proper sized alternator.
See what happens.
My old alternator caused all sorts of problems.
Replaced it, problems gone & POWER TO SPARE!

 

Could be, I can believe that. I remember it wouldn't stay running when i forgot to connect the wiring harness to the alt.

And I did kick it by accident....

I do have new new brushes for it that I bought and realized I didn't need when I went to disconnect the the alternator.

The car is hard on gas, the check engine light came on at 100km/hr and went out on the way to the bodyshop. Car seemed gutless at high speed, and didn't wanna rev much past 4000rpm.