Ok heres whut happens. Driving down the road; when it hits 2800-3000RPM it will surge down to 2000 and back up; again; and again, then go back to normal.

My car stalled at a stoplight; and turning around the courner, tryed to start it, it started then immedietly died, then finnaly got it running. When I cranked my stereo it also stalled.

I drove around the block and my Alternator got EXTREMLY hot! Too hot to touch.


I replaced my Fuel filter, to see if that was it. We also replaced the EGR Valve today.

So could it be the alt doing this? I'm taking it to napa to see if its any good & to get them to rebuilt it to higher amps.

There all also no codes.

Thanks

 

Ignition problems usually show up under heavy load.

Ohm check your plug wires with a DVOM. Approx. 3,000 Ohms per foot is acceptable.

Check spark plugs for carbon tracking on the porcelain. Also check for cracks.

Check for any plug wires arcing to ground.

Check dist. cap for carbon tracking.

 

We replaced all that recently like a week ago; Plugs, Wires, Cap and rotor.

The stuff in my car must have been the original stuff. we had to use a pry bar to get the rotor off lol.

I'll check the ignition tonight.

thanks,.

 

Dan is 100% right.
He forgot to add igntion modular.
Open hood at night time to see any electrical problems.
Have engine running of course.
I say coil or ignition modular.

 

Hey guys.

I unhooked the MAF to see hwo it ran without it.

It did not miss or hesitate with the MAF sensor unplugged.

Is my MAF toast?

It does the thing with the MAF in, but not when its out.

Like I said (I think) I got 6MPG on my last fillup lol... 90 miles on a tank.

I saw a bird at the auto wreckers thaqt i could get the MAF out of.

Thanks.

 

It's worth a shot. Disconnecting the MAF is a good way to see if one is bad.....

 

This is what I am thinking, I am only 16, I dont know what i'm talking about.

The bad Maf;

The engine sucks in more air when the engine is at higher rpms; right? Well since the MAF is supposably toast, When more air is being sucked into the engine, the MAF doesn't detect that airflow correctly; therefore it doesn't tell the Computer to Adjust the Air:Fuel ratio. I am guessing the MAF is still thinking that the car is only at idle speed still when it isnt; so, the computer isnt setting too low amount of fuel to get into the engine, therefore causeing it to jolt to lower RPMS because of the laque of Fuel.

Am I correct? Just kinda a wild guess...

 

You certainly know how to make an educated guess.