i started putting my new motor together today and the cylinders have been bored .040 over!! can't wait to get this thing in the car!

 

I was thinking about doing similar work to my new 3.1 - lemme know how goes it....

 

Heh, I just ordered my 3.4 Master Kit with .030 pistons and rings. Not gonna make a big difference powerwise, but I didn't feel safe just honing the cylinders so I decided to bore the block.

I'll have to do some math and see if it becomes a 3.5L.....I doubt it though.

 

it was worth boring the block .040 over. i had mine done when i rebuilt it. what other mods are you gonna do to the motor?

 

well, in my original post i forgot to mention that i bought the short block from napa last week, i was talking to my girlfriend on the phone and was so excited about finding out that the motor has been bored over that i didn't say too much. (that whole confusion thing with more than one input, typical hotrodder i guess). the heads are also new (rebuilt) so they have been decked, along with the block being decked, i should see a significant increase in compression. the cam is brand new oem, clevite lifters, new timing chain. the bottom end of the old motor was so gross. i got the oil pump out and all and there were huge chunks of gunk coming out of the main journals. it was rough. i am really excited about getting this thing in the motor. i am going to put my hypertech chip back in as well as a 165* thermostat. it's already got a dynomax cat back. with the bigger bore, should i gut the cat? i took the cat off once before and there was no difference in performace. it's also got an accel supercoil, cut air boxes with k&n filters, egr blocked off. number of other things, like transgo shift kit with newly rebuilt 700r4. any other "little" mod suggestions would be greatly appreciated. oh, i have also done the throttle body coolant bypass.

 

DON'T block the EGR off , you need that .

 

not in georgia! no emissions, made the car run stronger too.

 

Get some port matching done on the intake manifold, heads and plenum.

 

You'll probably gain another half point of compression maybe a bit more...... ditch the stock cam and go for a Crower stage II, put a higher stall converter in your 700r4

enjoy easy 15's...

 

Not possible! Removing the EGR won't make the car stronger. EGR only activates at part throttle, high speed, car-warmed-up, "cruising conditions". There's no need to unhook it, and you might as well save a tree or two - it comes at no cost to horsepower.

 

well, in theory, your right about the egr but it did make it run stronger at all rpms. thanks for the suggestions on the mods but the car is waiting patentlly for it's motor and i don't have the time nor the money for porting/valvetrain swap. any other little things anyone can think of?

 

The EGR question has been bugging me lately. If it does not hurt performance and possible might be good for it, seems to me the EGR should be blocked or removed.

The huge buildup of black crap in there absolutely can not be a good thing. There is a ton of it on the back of my butterfly alone. Upper and lower plenum coated in it.

I would not want any of it there to impede flow or gunk up the engine.

Thats my theory and I'm stickin to it...for now.

As far as emissions...I could care less. I think the planet wont be the wiser...

I have a set of hooker headers I'm dying to install but no EGR provision on them.

If the EGR is removed, how will that effect the computer? And can it be compensated for?

Jay

 

I wonder if you maybe had a vacuum leak that, by blocking the EGR off, is fixed? Hm... strange. As for little things, if you haven't rebuild the distributor yet, you might want to do that. You can get the Holley module from Summitracing.com for $60 (HLY-891-103), a new pick up coil locally for $12, a new seal for the distributor shaft (one inch inside diameter o-ring), and clean up the air gap between the reluctor and pole pieces. https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...threadid=63110 While you're doing the swap, you might want to send your injectors out to Rich Jensen at http://www.cruzinperformance.com for a cleaning & flowtest. Email Rich first, he's a good guy, very helpful, and I had my injectors back the same week I sent 'em out!! It was a noticable improvement over the old set, too... and cost me less than it would've if I went and bought one brand new injector. And if you're doing a motor swap & distributor rebuild, chances are, you won't be waiting on the injectors. Rich installs new o-rings and pintle caps, and even pre-lubes the o-rings for ya!

Let us know how it all works out!

 

I dunno about you guys, but every time I drive a car with a non-functioning EGR it PINGS. Not the greatest sound.......

 

Read my thread how to fix your EGR problmes.
COST ME NOTHING
Dan is right
PING=DEATH to engine!
Sorry, I care very much about this planet.
I want the planet to be healthy for my Son & his kids one day.
From one that was at first Earth Day in 1968.
Sorry, I DO NOT feel like breathing anymore polluted air than I must.
Nor do I want my child to breathe polluted air.

Have them shave .010 off the heads.
That'll raise compression by half point.
Weld an EGR pipe on your headers, won't cost anything except $15?
Those pipes easy to come by.
Ask Hooker Headers for EGR pipe for a 305 carb'd car.