k i am starting to get more problem on my bird, i just did the brakes and boom 2 more things go worng. and so much people telling me diffrent reasion, so i figure u guys could help 4 sure since u know r cars best. anyway frist problem is this thumping noise, cumin from under the passanger seat well somewhere around there. it sound like, u no when u take a plastic bottol and push it in and out that is just what it sound like, like a "POP,POP" noise. it only happens when i give my car alot of gas from a stop and when i make a turn its worse. sounds nasty and u could feel it. the only why i can make it not make that noise is if i go real slow. i was thinkin it could be the strut but when i push it dont and pull it up it dont make that noise. please help me, i am goin crazy here.

 

90% of the people on here have had the problem, and it sucks. It's gotta be the transmission mount. Lots of people on here have had to replace that.

Whats the 2nd problem?

 

If it's a loud, dull, metal banging on metal sound that's mostly only when you hit the gas from a standing stop, that's a bad tranny mount. If a mount is bad, the tranny torques when you hit the gas, and hits under the car. I had a blown mount when I first got my car..everytime I punched it, I heard a loud "THUNK!" right before it took off.

 

Damn you! Beat me to it!

BTW-May sound like common sense, but...until you get that fixed, DO NOT hit the gas! Granny pedal it or you can screw up your tranny, other mounts, your frame, etc...

 

Life's a bitch, ain't it?

It sucks having a broken mount. You can't floor it because you don't wanna do more damage, but you don't want to look even slower than you really are either!

 

Absolutely... You can always go for the 'older guys driving Vettes approach'..which is basically, "I have a fast car. I know it's fast. I know it'll beat your car. I have no reason to try to impress you..you're nothing to me."

 

Exactly.

 

pritty much that is what it is but its 2 thunks, and can i install it my self?? it has to be that becasue just yesterday i was showing off with my car drove her hard.

 

It's not too hard, you have to jack up the car and then jack up the transmission, and you may have to unhook the crossmember...

And it depends on which one you get. For some people, some of them have had to be modified.

What was the other problem you were having?

 

Yep, it's easy, no problem. You'll need ramps and a hydraulic jack and a piece of wood. First, lets verify that the trans mount IS shot, although, it sounds like it is. Crawl under the car. Find the rear of the transmission, the "tailshaft", right before the driveshaft starts. Now bench press (push up) the tailshaft towards the sky. Everything pivots on the front two motor mounts, so if the trans mount is busted, this won't be hard to do. If you can push that trans up at ALL, the mount is shot.

Raise the front of the car, block the back wheels. Slide the hydraulic jack under the center of the transmission pan. Put a block of wood, a bit wider than the trans pan, between the jack and trans pan. (The idea is to NOT dent the trans pan in the middle, the block of wood prevents this.) Undo the two side bolts holding the mount to the trans, and the single center bolt holding the mount to the crossmember. Raise the trans up slowly using the hydraulic jack until you can pull the old piece of crap outta there. Slide the new mount in. Loosely, put the bolts in for the new trans mount. Lower the hydraulic jack, and now, tighten the trans mount bolts. REMEMBER that you're putting STEEL bolts into an ALUMINUM transmission case, and you can strip the bolt threads easily if you crossthread OR over-torque the bolts!! I'm assuming you don't have a torque wrench (we all SHOULD by now!! 1st purchase = socket set, second purchase = torque wrench!!), so just make them tight- but not TOO tight, okay?

Sometimes the trans moves and you can't align the bolts to put them in loosely. This is normal, because the whole engine/trans assembly is pivioting on the two front engine mounts. With the trans still being supported by the hydraulic jack, push the tailshaft of the trans left or right so you can thread the bolts in (and DON'T crossthread 'em)!!

Two options; you can buy a stock trans mount from any parts store for $12 and have it break again, then buy another and have it break again, then buy another.... or, order the Energy Suspension polyurethane transmission mount from http://www.summitracing.com for $25 and never replace it again... they're that strong. I think Prothane makes a poly mount too, for cheaper, but I always use Energy Suspension. I went through 2 stock mounts in three years, then I found out about the ES one, put it on, and it's been okay since 1996!

You said you had two problems but only mentioned the first?? What's the second?

 

oh the next problem is oil leak it is leakin off bottom the oil pan(rolled down 2 the bottom) like u can see to 2 drips that have not fell yet when ever i look at it, if i have the car on it leaks faster, but i figure try to titen it fist and if its not that i guess it must be the oil gasket. i bet it is knowing my luck, if it is the gasket is that a hard job? and could i be wrong what i think it is?

 

I still don't understand why people remove the crossmember... I guess they like doing things the hard way. The method I give is the one mentioned in the GM Service Manual!

 

I have never taken off the oil pan, but I don't imagine it to be that hard. First check to make sure the drain plug is tightened.

 

What side is this leak on? If it's on the driver's side, it's not coming from the oil filter and running down the block, is it?

 

I didn't take it all the way off, I removed all bolts but one and pivoted it around... The extra space just made things easier.

 

thanks tomp for the step by step, i'm printing it now i am going to check in the morning if the mount is the problem if so i will order the energy ones. thanks, i'll let u know if that the problem.

 

the round black out pan i think, right on the bottom almost in the center i see 2 pree drip, and i just noticed another on the pirmid shap pan (think)(tranypan). whats goin on, my car want to much for christmas!!!

 

i got a pick of one of the leaks. u cant see the drip in the pick but there a pre drip the when i have the car on, when its off i think the drips stop.

 

just found out its not an oil leak i am leaking power sleering fluid,and the oil thats is comming out of that thing is just like 3 drips a day, my oil is at full still. can any one tell me if i can just cut the line and put a connector between??

 

What kind of line is it? Can you just replace it?? If it's the return line from the p/s pump, (non-pressurized one), it's about $5.