Ok, I have been &^#^#$ with this for 24 hours now. The car had a hesitation in it from taking off at lights. Checked brain. Code 35...IAC or TPS.
Put a new tps in it. No hesitation, but gave me a CEL of code 22. Tryed different TPS, same thing. Tested fuel pressure, its at 45 then drops to 44 after starting car. Left it sit for 30 min, leaked down to 42. Went and exchanged IAC for new one since I put it in a month ago. Came back, put it in with old TPS.
Dont want to start, still hesitates when taking off. I have now exchanged the EGR because it was leaking, tighted that ftg that is in right manifold that goes to polution @#$%. Had Ignition module test, its fine.

It still does not like to start, still hestates when taking off.

WTF is wrong with this %^&^ damn car???

 

OO yea. So I'm wondering, is the fuel regulator before or after the check valve??

This car has only been on the road for 3 months. I did all+ more of tomps tune up except for rebuild distrib.

 

what plugs are in it?
original coil?
are the wires backing off?
Crank forever before starting? or starts then dies?

 

another thing timing? 10 or 12-13 ish? if 10 try 13.
Oh the regulator is on the fuel rail.

 

If the PSI is at 44 running/Cranking and only goes to 42 after sitting, the pump and everythings fine.
So you have solved 1 problem of three needed for fire.
The other 2 being air(usually not a prob) and spark(the majority of problems).

 

Thanks CHC

Reg ac delco plugs. I think tommorow I am gonna put rapid fires in it.

Accell coil.

Checked plug wires, all seem to be on, wants its running, and idleing, it idles fine, little high maybe.


Cranks forever, sometimes dont start, sometimes fires and dies, sometimes starts and stays running. It depends on what it wants to do. Just crank and pray is what were doing right now.


OO, tommorow also thinking of swaping to the TPI air intake rather then the home made CAI I have now.

 

Ok, today I spent 4 hours on this beast.

Took the ignition module out, sanded the corosion off the mounts, put new bolts in to hold it down.

Took out the accel coil and put the stock one back in, for now, just to see if it went bad.

Put rapid fires in the holes.

Installed the TPI intake system with 2 new air filters.

While swaping plugs I broke a plug wire, I made another 8mm wire for it, but different brand


First time it started up, kinda rough.

The next 3 times, started just fine. Gonna leave it like this for a week or so and see how it runs. In mean time I'm gonna order the accel 35362. And attempt to test the accel coil I pulled off.

 

I only suggest rapid fires, others seem to foul way too easily. That may have been only prob.
But you did not state your timing? That can effect alot too.

 

Thats CHC.

don't have way to check timing.

Just got word that it is WORSE. Thats right. Used about 1/2 tank of gas to go about 30-40 miles. Stalled at a light, took about 10 minutes to get it started again.

Now I'm really pissed. WTF is the problem???


Starting to think this car is some

 

go to crap zone and get a cheapo timning light. Sounds like thats the problemo. 2-30 bucks probly.... Sounds like your running around 8 degrees! Not good!

 

Well, I found an old book that described my early problem. Which was hesitation/stumble at take off.
1. Timing incorrect.
2. Ignition not working right.
3. Bad/Plugged injectors
4. Low Fuel pressure.

I can scratch 4.

I checked over the whole igntion system, re-did most of it. I'm wondering if the ignition module is bad?? Or the pick-up coil. Which I beg it not to be. Rest was re-done.

Plugged injectors. I don't have the $$ to do that right now.

Timing, had a timing light, while working on s10, it decided to eat the wires to it.

Now, its still doing that, but now stalling while sitting at a light.
1. Idle speed, I don't think I have that???
2. Fuel filter clogged. Its somewhat new. Like 3 months.
3. Choke, dont have one.
4. Distrib compontets. Cap/rotor is good. Module and pick up coil is questionable
5. Fuel or emissions system. Fuel is good, replaced egr already.
6. Plugs, changed, still have problems
7. Vacum. Ops, forgot to check.

 

TTT


I need major help here guys. PLEASE

:hail: :hail: :hail: :hail:

 

have you started it in the dark yet??? find a nice dark place to park, fire it up and pop the hood. look for blue flashes / spark leaks.


gonna be a while till dark, you could fire it up and start touching stuff while its runing, aroundthe coil and cap area realgood. see if you get zaped. only hurts for a sec, after you wake up.

 

LOL. I'm at work now, so no play right now.

Wires are brand new, less then 2 months old.

I put stock coil back on it thinking the accel coil may have been bad. Made problem worse. So next time I get chance, accell is back on.

Distrib cap/rotor is about 3-4 months old, looks perfect.

 

Heh, unfortunately that means nothing. My EGR ate my number #3 wire in only 2 months. I put a heat shield on the replacement however.

 

I will highly pissed if they have gone bad already.

I will be getting timing light and checking timing at night. Will look then.

I have had comments on my s10 board of maybe a plugged catalitic converter??

What happens when them go out??

Anyone make an aftermarket front bolt up y-pipe system??

 

When they go bad, they usually clog the exhaust, and keep you from accelerating. I drove in an '83 camaro with a clogged cat; the guy wanted me to actually drive it, so we switched... it was weird. I'd floor the gas and there'd be no difference- we'd still be idling down the road. But, he wasn't stalling at lights, either.

I'd say to check all the plug wires with a meter. Who tested the ignition module? Maybe you want to replace it anyway? (I assume you used the high-temp grease when you put it back in?)

Have you read the plugs at all? Maybe you'll find one that's wet with fuel, that way, you know it's not sparking, or that injector's clogged. Are all the gaps still set to stock 0.045"? If you had access to an injector balance tester, you could determine which injector was clogged, if any. (Got my tester from http://www.sunpro.com 's garage sale, under test & tune: Fuel Injector & Harness Tester - CP7819, $20)

Check for a steady power supply to the ECM/fuel pump, this is the fuse on the passenger side's upper frame rail, towards the front of the car; the fuse holder with the red and orange wire. I had a ring terminal go bad on this circuit (on the red wire where the red wire meets the positive junction block) that made the car stall and not start again. Altho, if this wire were bad, you'd also be clearing the codes all the time (computer losing power). But I wonder if your fuel pump is getting power all the time... maybe the relay is dying, and your oil pressure switch isn't kicking in as backup? Search for my code 54 chart and run thru it, check out all the wiring to the pump. But the fact that you got fuel pressure with the engine off seems to say the relay's okay...

You've got a new EGR, right? Did you check to see if it was sticking open? I don't have any experience with the digital EGR's, I don't even know if they -can- stick open. You have the self-adjusting TPS, right? Any way you can put a meter on the TPS (disconnected from the car's harness) to make sure it's giving correct readings?

Gumby's got a good idea about wiggling the wires- but I wouldn't go wiggling the secondary ignition wires (plug wires and coil wires). Sounds dangerous! Try wiggling the regular wiring harnesses that plug into the module and the coil. Watch your hands near the plug wires, you don't want to get zapped. The two-wire black connector on the spark coil is the only connection between the ignition coil and spark module, this might be bad, give it a wiggle & find out. You should also wiggle the module's 4-wire connector. The whole ignition system gets powered up by the pink/black wire of the white connector on the ignition coil, maybe you could check that wire's voltage with a meter, you should see +12 volts when the key is turned to "on".

How's your alternator output? 12 volts w/car off, 13.8 with engine running? Got any bad or missing ground straps? Battery cables are in decent condition and not corroding or cracked/broken/intermittent?

Timing would definately be something to look into... I don't see a garage charging much just to check the timing for you. Timing that's been over-advanced for a long time could damage the plugs; was there any damage to the center insulators of your old plugs?

 

The car is completely dead and is getting towed home as I type this.


Plugs I pulled out where all evenly very light coated in white chalk. No physical damage. I have others in it right now.

I now have access to a timing light, well check that. If it will start again.

I have Accel module on order from jegs. I had stock one tested at autozone, and I did use the gunk when I put it back on. Their was none when I pulled it off. I also noticed their is some rust on the steal parts in the distrib, but its been their since I got the car.

You can hear the pump "wirr" when you turn the key. Will check to make sure its every time. But car will flood out when its not firing.


Thanks tomp I am gonna try and go out tonight and swap back to accel coil and the plugs I pulled out. Seemed to do better with them in it.

 

I know this story completly, because it happened to me one year ago. Did all the changes from old to new, like you did, at least a new ECM, and that fixed all my problems
Horst

 

New ECM is on the list after x-mas gifts. Kinda behind on bills right now as well as this thing breaking and x-mas. But trust me, its on the list.

 

a pluged cat wil glow red usually and the car wil run bad, and it get worse n worse adn the cat glows hotter each time and melts inside.

could be the cat man, so burnt up now that you can get any flow out, so it cant suck in enough air.

 

Thanks for all your help. Timing was at 12 degrees. Plus the distributor needed some attention. Please see my post about "distributor rebuild" for what all was wrong with it and tell me if you think that is/was my problem.


Much thanks to everyone for your advice.