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Electrical fiasco...

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Old Dec 17, 2002 | 05:24 PM
  #1  
Doward's Avatar
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From: Gainesville, FL
Car: 1988 Chevy Camaro Hardtop
Engine: Turbocharged/Intercooled 3.1
Transmission: World Class T5 5 Speed
Electrical fiasco...

well, replaced the battery and hot wire to the starter, then wham - no power at all when I went to crank it. Like, everything just went DEAD.

Now, I walked away, came back, and my interior lights came on. I'm like wtf? Then I go to crank, everything dies once more.

So now I've pulled the hot wire from the starter, and have taken a closer look at the other two wires there. I'm seeing 3 cylinder type things inline on them, and I'm wondering if they are fusible links? Not only that, but could those 3 be preventing my car from starting?

As well, if I'm correct, how in the world do they get replaced?
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Old Dec 17, 2002 | 07:52 PM
  #2  
Joe_L's Avatar
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From: Halifax, NS,Canada
Car: 1995 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Built 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23's - Limited Slip
You are correct those are fusable links.
I have no idea how to replace them.
Before I bought my car, the guy that previously owned it said they ran hard wires down to it *stupid idea*.

But I am sure you can just open up the link by twisting it and poping out the old fuse and putting in a new one.

If not cut the before and after the fuse link. Then get a link from a auto parts store, wire it in, tape it off, and put in a new fuse.
It may take a little extra time, but it will be worth it.
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Old Dec 17, 2002 | 09:20 PM
  #3  
92RSMuscle's Avatar
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From: Central Jersey
maybe its the selanoid?
Break out the circut testers!
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Old Dec 17, 2002 | 11:50 PM
  #4  
Doward's Avatar
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From: Gainesville, FL
Car: 1988 Chevy Camaro Hardtop
Engine: Turbocharged/Intercooled 3.1
Transmission: World Class T5 5 Speed
dddeeeeerrrrrr....

Or maybe, hey... no... couldn't be. omfg. shoot me, please.

Word of advice - electrical systems work MUCH BETTER IF YOU TIGHTEN THE STUPID NEGATIVE CABLE.

Yeah, I'm a moron for today. I'm going to bed.
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Old Dec 18, 2002 | 12:41 AM
  #5  
GhostRider84's Avatar
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From: Arkansas
Welcome to the club
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Old Dec 18, 2002 | 07:14 AM
  #6  
92RSMuscle's Avatar
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From: Central Jersey
that made me feel better about myself
haha
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Old Dec 18, 2002 | 12:28 PM
  #7  
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From: Long Island, NY
Car: 1986 IROC-Z
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Check your grounds, maybe replace the main negative cable off the battery.

As for replacing fusible links, you can't "open them and replace the fuse." The link itself is a "fuse". The rubber cylinder has a very thin wire in it that burns out when there's a problem. You can purchase replacement links, but finding the right rating is something I couldn't figure out. I simply replaced it with an in-line fuse holder, slap in a 20A fuse and its done. Make sure you use a waterproof fuse holder.
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Old Dec 19, 2002 | 04:42 PM
  #8  
TomP's Avatar
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Usually fuseable links are used in situations where ordinary fuses would blow. A fuseable link is a "slow burn" compared to a regular fuse. A fuse might melt from a sudden load (like turning the heater fan from "off" to "high". But a fuseable link is designed to absorb the "sudden" draw. They take longer to melt than a fuse, and that's why they're used in certain applications (like the one I just mentioned)- because they can take a "surge".
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