Ok, while I had the gas tank out yesterday, I stripped one of the swaybar end links. Will the ones from Energy suspension work on the v6 sway bars, and do they come with new studs and nuts??


Think I should upgrade to v8 sway bars while I'm at it, I want them anyway


Will 17lb injectors be two much for a 3.1l, highly belive they come with 15lb stock??


Anyone ever had a Fuel pressure regulator go out on them, if so what was the symoptoms


I have rebuilt the whole ignition system on this car, new air system, now working on fuel system. Still have these freakin "studders" while holding peddle steady, and hard start in morning.



But atleast I have a nice used fuel pump for my engine swap in the s10

 

Well, I can answer a few of those anyways..

#1-Don't know.

#2-Yes....the V8 swaybars will probably be thicker, considering they have to deal with the extra weight...pretty much anything swapped from a V8 will be an upgrade.

#3-17 lb. injectors should be just fine.. From what I've heard, just because they ARE 17 lb injectors doesn't mean they'll put out 17 lbs per hour. The ECM should keep them putting out the same amount of fuel as the old, smaller injectors, as to not fudge up the A:F ratios... I believe someone here was running 21 lb injectors on a 2.8 or 3.1 without problems...

#4-Wish I could help..but we've already been down this road..I feel your pain man! Nothing more irritating than a problem that keeps coming back, especially when you have no idea what it is.

 

Yep, we use the same end links. You get it all, 4 new poly bushings, 4 washers, a sleeve, thru bolt, and nut. All hardware gets a gold iridite (?) plating. Coat the whole bolt (especially where it sits inside the sleeve) and the threads with some anti-seize to keep the thing from rusting. Remember to tighten them when the weight of the car is on the wheels (to avoid preloading them), and torque spec is only 15 ft/lbs, you don't want to crush the bushings flat. Just posted part #'s in a message below me (Sway Bar Size), here's the info:

Check those anti-sway bars out with an open ended adjustable wrench (as I mentioned, too, in that same message) before you buy 'em. Some early v8's had thinner bars (some bars were solid back in 82-84), and some mid-80's v8's have the same size bars that we do in the front. You want to find the late model Z28's and the Trans Am's and GTA's (and some Formulas) for the good stuff. Don't forget a wonderbar, too... oh, wait, didn't you already put one on a while ago? I forget!

 

Is it the same height or should I say length spacer. OR just reuse the stock spacer??

Wonder"bra" has been on for a while, hehe.

 

Should be the same length, 2 5/8 inches. Are they the original end-links? It might be hard to re-use the spacer. The usual pain in the butt about end links is that the center bolt rusts solid to the sleeve, making the units impossible to separate into pieces. Usually you wind up snapping the nut off, and then having to hacksaw thru the end-link at the sway bar end.

My fronts were completely rusted; couldn't get a hacksaw in there, and didn't have air tools at the time. I used a cutting tip on a big Weller soldering gun to cut thru the bushings at the control arm. (What a stink that was, yech) Then I wedged our bolt cutters into the space that was where the bushings were (at the control arm), and cut the bolt.

Now that I think about it, I wonder if air tools would've even fit in that tight spot.

If the end links ARE different length, you could always trim down the spacer with a file or hacksaw. Technically they're supposed to be a certain length so that the bar end is parallel to the frame end. Mine are a little canted, suggesting a sleeve that's too long, but I think it's because I run air shocks, and the whole car is raised in the back and tilted "forward". I'll find out when I dump the air shocks for normal ones, sometime this summer.

 

Mine are not rusted to the bolt. Its just I kept tightening and tightening, never got hard/stiff, never seen bushings squish, and stopped, looked. GD its stripped

So I will be ordering new ones when I figer out why car isn't running right.

As for now, no sway bar, whew is fun to drive

 

air shocks

AIR SHOCKS!!!!
Damn My Brother had those back in 70's on our Families 1966 Mustang!
Just having fun!
But Air shocks?
Was their a "need" for them?
What brand, Gabriels?
I still remember that "air shock sticker"..
A bunny with wisps of dust cloud behind him.

 

KED, HI-JACKERS!! My friend's 65 Mustang has Hi-Jacker air shocks in the rear and has the bunny logo on his back right little sliver of a window... It was his dad's idea to put them on...

 

Ya need to BE SURE you are using GRADE 10.8 METRIC BOLTS. The number is cast into top of bolt.
This numerical value is equal to Grade 8 US specs.
Any bolt can strip.
Ask any airline mechainc.

 

Yep, I've got Gabriel Hi-Jackers, with the dual inflation kit. Instead of a single T connector and air valve under the bumper, I've got two air valves. I used to pre-load the right rear with more air to compensate for twist at the dragstrip. (Most people install air bags.) But no more air shocks for me; I love the look, but it's time I "move on", the car has looked the same since '94. A new stance, along with a new paint job and rebuilt everything, should really make it look like it's 2nd rebirth.

How'd I miss out on the bunny sticker, though? I peeled my stickers off, stuck 'em on the garage wall.

 

And yeah, those metric bolts with 8.8 stamped on 'em are NOT grade 8 SAE, they're grade 5 SAE... not for automotive.

 

I'll just order them summit/ES ones after I get the car running right. Whats point of having it "handle good" if it wont start and run??

Technicalities huh??