The bad coolant something would be your coolant temp sensor (CTS).. this could, in fact, be a start to your problem also.. if the car is getting bad data it could be trying to go into its warm-up cycle while you're driving.. meaning it would try to pick up to about 1500. eek.

Shows as being approximately a $9 part at CSK.

Also, check the wires on the CTS, make sure they aren't grounding out.

 

Got a quick one... I will update in a while, I need this one FAST if anyone knows.
Trying to replace the fan switch and Todd cannot find it...
HELP If someone knows and/or has a diagram, would be wonderful.... Book we have SUCKS!!

 

Fan switch.
Guess where it's at?
TRY PASSENGER SIDE CYLINDER HEAT, REAR.
Yep, it's that thing ya can touch but can't reach.
Let me offer this.
No it's not bad.
Wiring to it, MAYBE BAD
Switch bad, no.
WHY I KNOW
I broke one, once.
It's just like a coolant sensor, kinda hard to make it go bad.
I still say somehow your system is reading that the AC is activated, thus kicking in the fan.

The coolant sensor you see located behind the AC compressor in the driver side cylinder head?
That's the same location as if that spot was on passenger side.
Have you located a vacuum hose routing diagram

 

Thanks guys for all the help the car is running like a new one now. It was the mass airflow sencor and the AIC valve. thats for all the advice on the motor. This sight is awesome. I will kept you all updated every once in awhile to tell ya hows its running.

Thanks to all,
Todd

 

Sorry it has been sooooo long. Computer was down.... Guess what???? Car has been parked for about 2 months and still isn't running right.
Remember how the fan was constantly running? Now it won't work at all.
We have replaced (with New parts, not used) the ECM, IAC valve,
electronic fan motor, TPS, the harmonic balancer, the Temp. gage switch, 0 2 sensor.
It still isn't running right. It is still surging, trying to stall when I go from a complete stop and trying to surge forward when I am stopped. The engine will NOT stay idle. It is constantly up and down.
Have adjusted timing about 4 or 5 times and had it read by an x-ray machine and it showed the TBS was low. That's when we replaced it. Still no results...
Please help me AGAIN if you can...:hail: :hail:

 

How good is the exhaust system?
Nah, ya said it went away.
Exhaust problems don't "repair" themselves.

My mid RPM surging reappeared, too.
Yet only in morning for a short time.

Second,
I'd remove/roll over the upper intake.
Expose ALL the vacuum hoses.
Start fixing/replacing hoses that are aged with new THICK WALL 1/2" heater hose, 5/16" windshield wiper hose to repair cracks in any hard plastic line.
Check your connections for tightness.
My mid range surging problem?
I believe it may be the IAT.
I wish someone would tell me if the V-8 IAT is same as 6 IAT. I have a spare V-8 one.

 

Already checked hoses. Found a leak in the fuel line. Cleared the ECM and tried again. Car is the same. It seems to be worse.

 

Dontchya wish you replaced those parts with junkyard parts, instead of springing for new?

I asked a long time ago, and you never answered... have you checked fuel pressure? Are you sure it's not the fuel pump? You mentioned replacing the fuel injectors and fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator, but you never mentioned the pump itself.

Also, have you checked the EGR to make sure it's not stuck open? That hasn't been mentioned yet, either. Karl's got the right idea; we've gotta look at other systems.

Karl, hop to http://www.carparts.com or http://www.partsamerica.com or http://www.napaonline.com , and look up part #s for both the V6's IAC and the V8's IAC. You probably want to look at v8 iac's between 87 and 89.

 

Did he fix the bad ground? I bnet you that it could be the source of your problems. Cars need a good electrical system to run the way they should.

Also have him remove the EGR tube that gose into the intake and plug it up. Then take it for a test run. Semi pluged or a ripped diaphram (SP?) can cause some strange problems.

Good Luck!!!!

 

Checked the fuel pump and the ground wire. The fuel pump came out fine. Checked all fuses too! Actually, he just replaced all the fuses (just in case).
Already checked the EGR tube too!!!

 

What was the fuel pressure at the fuel rail, with the key on, and engine off? Has he done a compression or leakdown test of the cylinders (maybe the timing chain skipped a tooth)? What was the vacuum at idle? Have you disconnected the exhaust after your "removed catalytic convertor"? I wonder if pieces of the old cat are clogging the exhaust, either in the intermediate pipe (cat to muffler), or in the muffler.

And how did you guys check the EGR tube? Did you block it off, with a strip of metal between the EGR tube and throttle body, like BitchinRS said? That will "eliminate" the EGR from the engine.

There's a procedure in the GM service manual which has you test every ECM input/output on the car. It should have been performed when you replaced the computer. The idea is that a bad output could kill the ECM... diagnosis shows the ECM is bad. The ECM gets replaced, but the bad output kills the ECM again.

How does the engine idle if you -don't- drive it?

Some other messages that we don't have updates for... Karl talked about the alternator, and dead ignition modules. Have you guys checked the voltage, at the battery, when the car is off AND when the car is running? Should be 12 volts when the car's off, 13.8 when the car's running. Also, has the ignition module been replaced yet? (It's under the distributor cap.)

Has the "wiggle test" been done to the harness wires coming out of the distributor, and the wires at the coil? I don't mean the spark plug wires, I mean the actual wiring harness of the car. Start the motor, and wiggle those wire harnesses. Might be a bad wire in that bunch that's causing a problem with the igntion system. You could also wiggle other "key area" wires, too, such as at the MAF sensor, to see if the car stumbles.

Keep us posted; there's really not much left to cover with the car!

 

When I was reading the Camaro book lastnight, it said something about the distributor. I was wondering about that.
I don't know the details about all this other stuff you guys are asking, I will let him read your posts when he gets home from work and he can respond.
I may need your help later on specific info on checking things. I have just minor car/engine knowledge, but I told Todd if he doesn't try and fix this car in the next week, I was going to do it!
We will wait and see what his response is to your questions.
Talk to you later. If you can think of anything else in the mean time, please let me know.

 

I'd say best bet, you two print this out, and cross off everything you've done... circle anything you haven't... almost like starting "fresh", from the beginning.

The gas isn't so old that it's dead, is it? My car sat for a month on 1/8th tank of gas after I totalled it. After I rebuilt it, the motor wouldn't start. My dad told me to try putting new gas in it... I put a few gas cans of new gas in, and it started right up. (Covered my street in black smoke, too! )

 

No, the gas isn't bad. We just put more in after Todd ran it totally out of gas by reving (sp) the engine why trying to fix it. I keep telling him to quit doing that. I keep telling him it isn't doing any good, it's just wasting gas, but he doesn't listen.
I know he is just REALLY frustrated. He doesn't knowwhat else to do and is really burned out on working on this car and nothing seems to turn out right.

 

Alright guys, I don't know if this will help any. Todd is at work and I just checked for any possible missed vaccum leaks and then I drove the car around the block a couple of times to make sure the ECM had reprogramed itself since I cleared it a couple of weeks ago.
There was white smoke coming out of the tail pipes before I drove around and when I got back, the fan still had not came on and the car was smoking at the top of the engine. (just a little)
It was obviously very hot.
The car was surging, but not too bad but the exhaust sounds funny. It almost sounds like a honda (no offense if there are any Honda owners)
Maybe that will help in the diagnosis of the problem!!!

 

Unless I am mistaken white smoke shows that you have watter in your exuasht. THis would also explain the steam you see comming from the engine. A blow head gasket or a warped head will allow water to pass into the chamber.

 

Its not a blown head gasket its just burning alittle bit of oil off the exaust maniflod. valve cover leaks a little bit. When I get off work I'm going to replace the ICM and coil. they both are the origial stuff to the car. and I think the ICM is bad cause when my wife went to get the car when it was recovered the key was in the on postion. the coil has been on the car since it was new.and the fan switch is a dealer item only. its right next to the temp. switch for the dummy light. they both are right in front off to the left of the thottle body on the intake. I will let you guys know what happens on Sunday. Or my wife can tell ya all.

 

Yeah when the key is in the on position the ICM is recieving power and it will over heat if left in the on position with out being started. A lot of pepole use the on position so they can listen to the stero and burn up the ICM.

 

I think your position of the fan switch is wrong... it should be in the rear of the passenger side head, against the firewall, with a single green wire coming from it. The sensor for the idiot light is in the front of the driver's side head.

The sensors "in front off to the left of the throttle body on the intake" are the cold start switch (purple & tan wires) and the engine's CTS (coolant temp switch, yellow & black wires). If you're tracking a fan problem, dont' forget to check out the fan relay. If that's melted, the computer and/or the fan switch won't be able to kick the fan on. Don't forget about the fuseable links that run the fan, either; should be off the junction block on the passenger side of the radiator. The relay runs off a fuse in the fuse box.

 

YEA!!! Todd has been working on the car ALL day. Todd, got a new fan motor, relay switch, ICM, coil. He also found a new vacuum leak. Replaced a bunch of hoses, blah, blah, blah.
Anyway, the fan is coming on again but it goes on right away when you start the car again.
Don't know why? Need more help! Todd, also found a green wire attached right by the a/c wires. Don't know what it is too. It is just one green wire. But the 4 wires that go to the a/c compressor are hooked to it.
I just test drove the car and it drives great! No hesitation or anything. We just need to fix the fan.
Todd wanted me to ask you if he changes the control panel will it possibly fix the fan if it stuck in the def. mode???
So, need to know about the fan and the green wire. Thank you!

 

To cure my constant on fan, I replaced my computer, competly.
When shown what it was, a HUGH BURNT SPOT was on the circuit board.
I found my swapped ECM on a 1985 Corvette.
Second ECM I used & have now as back up is from a Pontiac 6000, 1985 model year.
Ask yard for the Hollander interchange option.
I paid $30
Easiest fix after trying other options.

 

We just bought a brand new ECM. Does this mean we should probably take it back and get another one? I don't know if the ECM's come with a warranty??? What about that green wire??

 

Sounds like yours is a crossed wire LOCATED BELOW THE FAN RELAY SWITCH which is located on Firewall, right infront of driver.
It's in a cluster of black boxes. Probably box middle one!
Examine plug for crossed wires or exposed wire ends.
That's the other choice for clues.
Green wire I am unaware of it's function, sorry!
I am eliminating the ECM as you say it's new. Common sense says it's good! (of course we know converse, let's assume)
Does fan go on with ignition key in "engine run position"?
What function of the HVAC control? Any position? Not only if AC or Defrost?
Hope this is a trail for ya.
It is not good to have constant fan on.
Big drain on alternator.

 

Wait a second... are you talking about the fan on the radiator, or the fan for the heater/ac?

If you mean the fan on the radiator, have you unplugged anything related to a/c? There's a pressure switch on the a/c hard line that's bolted to the passenger side's main frame rail. The switch "opens" if it sees an abnormally high pressure in the a/c system, and that kicks the fan on. If you guys removed the two-pin connector from that a/c hard line, the fan will always come on. If you've pulled the a/c, you need to put a jumper into that connector.

Glad to hear the ignition module fixed the problem. Too bad you didn't try it earlier! https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...33#post1161762 Must've been related to the theft.

I believe the factory idiot light/gauge for the coolant temperature used a green wire; the sensor would be located in the front outer edge of the driver's side head. But, you've got me confused... when you say...

Do you mean the 4 wires for the a/c compressor are electrically connected to it? (as in, shorted out?) Or do you mean that the wires from the a/c connector go inside the same black wire loom covering as the green wire?

If the wire's just in the same loom, it should go to the sensor I just described.

But hey, if it's just down to the fan, that's great... glad to hear it's all working again!

 

Hmm sounds like I may have found my cure of my problems. Car has a rough idle if it starts and I have replaced the rotor and plugs. It was running fine for a week. I went to work with my collant fan problem and then the car would just crank and crank but once in a blue moon it would start though very rough. I decided to put some new plugs on, good thinking because half of them just fell apart in my hands. Though after this operation I am still with the same problem. The only other thing I can think of is the ignition module or even worse, the ecm. I will be takign the ignition module out tonight and taking to autozone for a test.

As far as the coolant fan goes. The fan works, I put power directly to it and the relay seems to work from a test I had autozone do on it. I also just replaced the fan switch, though I have been trying to test the fan and its circuitry since this ordeal but each thing I try fails. When the car was running I also noticed the compressor was not activitating upon request so I was not able to utilize the override of the coolant fan with the compressor in action.

If there is anything you guys can send me for a possible solution please do so. I am still scavenging the whole thread because I may have missed some pieces here and there.

 

btw, seeing the fule pump relay and the fan relay were the same, I swapped the relays and I still had the fan problem. I know the relay that was originally used for my fuel pump was working seeing that I heard it initialize.

 

WAS THE CAR EVER IN A FRONT END ACCIDENT?

 

Maybe you've got a burnt out fusible link? The electric fan died on my car without me knowing once..got off the interstate, hit a red light, pulled into Discount Auto noticing abnormally high coolant temp...gurgle...gush. Coolant in their parking lot and lots and lots of smoke! I checked the fusible link..the fuse wasnt just blown, it was MELTED. I converted to a manual fan after this.

 

The car was never in an accident as far as I know at all from what I could see when I had bought it. The only incident it went through with me was locking up the brakes on wet pavement and knocking over a wonderfully placed turn sign. That sucked, but all it did was cut the facia.

The fuse is itself is fine for the fan with 0 resistance.

Is there a particular way to ground out the fan switch that it would start the fan when the car is just turned on, or does the car actually have to be running. There is power running through the relay when on, but I havent been able to test the fan in this manner.

 

Here is where I am sitting now. Either I have a bad ecm or bad wiring.

From the relay the green dk wire goes to the ecm and then on to the fan switch if I am not mistaken. If I am not getting enough amps back to the relay from the fan switch/ecm direction the relay will not push current to the fan. Can anyone tell me how many amps they are seeing on the wire?

If I am all wet, can someone let me know what I may be missing?

 

You don't have to have the compressor running; as I said before, unplug the two-pin connector sticking out of the a/c hard line that's bolted to the passenger side's main (lower) frame rail. When you unplug the connector, the fan will come on (as long as the ignition's on).

That's the only connection between the cooling fan and the a/c circuitry.

Definately check the fuseable link as Nixon said, <a href="https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthread.php?s=&threadid=162733#post1297466" target="newwin"> I gave it's location here.</a> The fuseable link powers the fan side of the relay. The computer side of the relay is powered by the fuse.

 

As you check wires don't forget to check the wires to the junction blocks.
There may be a crossed wire(s) causing this problem.

 

Is the juction block going to be the area where I have a few red hot wires joining in the same location basically? If so I have a few wires that look like they may be starting to shed their over coating but not in the areas they are touching. What else would I be looking for?

As well, I uncoupled the two pin connector that was plugged into the ac. Wire colors of blue and black/white. Nothing changed.

 

Is the juction block going to be the area where I have a few red hot wires joining in the same location basically? If so I have a few wires that look like they may be starting to shed their over
coating but not in the areas they are touching. What else would I be looking for?

By the air inlet box for the Firebird, on radiator support there also is a junction box.
Examine there, too.
I used electrical tape to cover my exposed ends like you see.
Just in case.......
Good luck, keep hunting!

 

Ok that must be what you are talking about for sure. It is on the vertical support for the rad and beside the ait filter box as well. I will try to check into that.

 

Hey, no offense to "Clasbya" ( I think that's it) You kind of jumped into our topic. Now I don't know which responses are mine are which are yours.
Will everyone responding please let me know who you are responding too! I am totally getting confused!!
Update....
Camaro is still sitting. Will someone please give us some various option about this fan constantly running!
I got a book from the library about electrical but I don't understand a lot of it.
I know it could be a million things, but can you give me a few of the most likely problems that keep this fan running.
I also noticed when I drove the car yesterday that the car doesn't have much power. The surging has stopped.
I guess that's a good sign. We have accomplished something!
Todd is still frustrated and doesn't know what to do!

 

Okay, well, if the messages got confused, all of the following was what I wrote to help you (dennine2) as regards your fan problem. I'll even include the previous "dialogue" surrounding it.

 

So basically, Todd should unhook the fan switch (correct location on the 2.8 is the rear of the passenger side head, NOT in the front of the intake manifold). He should put a meter between the switch and +12 volts to see if he gets a reading. If he sees +12, the fan switch is busted.

Next he should check the fan relay to make sure it hasn't melted into a solid blob of metal, causing the fan to stay on.

Next he should check the connector on the a/c hard line located on the passenger side's main frame rail. He should check the sensor with a meter to make sure it's not stuck "open" (infinite resistance).

And these three options are assuming you're talking about the engine cooling fan on the radiator, and not the blower fan for the heater/air conditioner.

 

I am talking about the radiator fan. You will have to look back on previous replies to see everything that has been replaced. I don't want to begin to list everything again.
But, yes, the ECM among almost EVERY other thing has been replaced.
The fan used to work fine before we began replacing everything.
Then the fan wouldn't work at all. Replaced motor and it wouldn't turn off. Quit working again and found out the motor burned out.
Replaced that and now it won't turn off again. Don't want another motor to burn out.
I just read an article about these fans on another sight. It said that the fan will constantly run if the radiator is not full. Has anyone else heard of this? I would just s@#@ if it was something that simple.

 

TomP..... To try and explain this as brief as possible. We had another Camaro. Todd found this body but had to take the engine out and replace it with our old Camaro. So, the engine we now have is from the OLD Camaro. Todd had to convert it to fuel injected> Anyway, he used the wires from the body we currently have, not the old Camaro.
Does this make sense???? My whole point is.... Todd looked and said that there is no switch for the fan. I don't know if that was the previous owners doing or what.
The Camaro we currently have sat in a junk yard for 5 yrs. I don't know why there wouldn't be a switch...

 

If your radiator is low on coolant, why haven't you added some already? You'd need the low coolant sensor anyway, which is located in the ... ah, forget it.

I feel that I've detailed the entire operation of the fan in the above messages. Someone else can chime in, maybe there's something I've missed. Also, I don't believe I asked for a comprehensive list of everything that was replaced. I certainly didn't ask if the ECM was replaced- which, I believe, was un-necessary. I remember you arguing with me that there was no fuse with the ECM. The car should've had a fuse. If you guys have had some kind of hack-job done to the wiring, you should buy a GM service manual for your year/make/model of car from http://www.helminc.com and trace every single wire that has been played with.

Otherwise I'm wasting my time. I'm giving procedures and circutry AND correct sensor locations, and you're telling me they don't exist. To me, it's a problem when a sensor doesn't exist. Either that, or we're miscommunicating. I could be very well mistaken about sensor locations of an '85, and am giving the sensor and wire locations for 86-89 2.8's. However, I don't think that's the case.

Good luck with the car.

 

I know there is a fuse for the ECM, that is how I have cleared my error codes the whole time. :-) It was a pain finding my fan switch at first, everything told me to look at the passenger side when it was behind the air compressor which is on the drivers side and the sensor for the cluster was under the intake. Is the 2.8 and 3.2 the same in this aspect? I am very sure the V8's aren't.

 

OK heres where we sit. I pulled my 2.8 out of my old 1984 Camaro that was Carb. When I put the motor in my current Camaro(1985) there was no fan switch on the pass.side of the motor. I took the top part of the motor off and put the FI top part off the BLOWN motor. Maybe the green wire my wife was talking about is on the drivers side OK. Follow me so far. I have replaced everything possible to be replaced. This car is driving me insane. All I've done is fix or work on this thing ever since it was STOLEN. It could be the steering column you never know. I do apeciate everybody's feedback. But you don't have to get HATEFUL. My wife is asking you questions cause she wants to learn GOT IT!!!!

When I say there is no fan switch on the motor there isn't. The AC switch I know where that is. But it looks like it doesn't come off, the fan relay is new(radiator Fan). There is no sensers in the front or rear of the heads. There is no green wire on the pass.side of the motor for a fan switch. I'm telling you. there is a single green wire on the drivers side coming out of the plastic wire covering by the AC compresser. Thats the only green wire not hooked up to anything so maybe that could be it right? I know I have to re time my car so PLEASE give me some help here. Isn't there a vacuum hose that helps the door in the vent system work. I have one vacuum line not hooked up could that be it? It is coming out of a little black box on the fire wall. Well what do you think? Thats basicly all I got to say. Thanks.

 

The fan switch will be a brass fitting. Do you see anything like that or what should be brass, after age who knows.

I can get you a picture of my old switch, maybe that can help. I will post it tonight.

 

I'm not hating, dude; I've just come to the conclusion that the wiring on your car has been screwed with, probably before you ever swapped the motor, and I can't help any further. Back in your first messages, you said there was no ECM fuse- that screams "wiring troubles" to me. And like I said, it could very well be that your '85 is some kind of special edition with special wiring and special sensors that I've never seen before; and possibly someone else with an '85 can help with that. I'm simply not going to throw random guesses out anymore. So as I said before, good luck with the car. If I seem like a little bitch, well, hey, so be it. If I was a little bitch, though, I don't think I'd have been as helpful as I was. If I was your best friend, and came over to help, and saw that the wiring was severely messed with, I'd tell you to find a mechanic, or buy the GM service manual and trace all the wires.

Maybe Karl (KED85) will re-visit this message. He did a 2.8-to-3.4 swap on his '85, and I remember him having a problem with the fan switch during the swap. You both have '85's, your wiring should match exactly.

 

Clasbya, you said you had a 3.1, right? Dale has a recent message up where he told me the fan wiring is different for a 3.1 then for a 2.8, message is here: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=180254

 

Gez, everyone (TomP) Calm down... I think your getting confused if you are talking to me or Todd. Sorry, our fault!!
You put on your previous reply that you didn't ask for a list of what we replaced. MY FAULT!
When you were kind enough to give me all of our previous replies, I just skimmed through and didn't realize it was previous posts and thought someone new was asking me this. Sorry!
I don't think Todd understood what you were saying either.
I have told him all along that I thought the wiring in the car was screwed up because when he first exchanged the engines, the car wouldn't even start for 3 days.
It was in the middle of one of our HOT AZ summers and he was frustrated. I assumed he just rigged something somewhere.
Reguarding the "switch", Todd has shown me that there isn't one.
Maybe whoever owned the car did this. I don't know.
I know everyone is just trying to help and I appreciate it very much. Don't give up on us yet, please. Maybe we can get this piece of crap figured out!!
When I mentioned that I thought the wiring wasn't right in the car, the thing that boggles me is why did it work before. I don't know, I'm as frustrated trying to figure it out as you are (TomP) trying to give us suggestions.
Sorry for all the misunderstanding and harsh "words". Didn't mean to upset anyone!!

 

Clasbya, I would greatly appreciate that. Maybe that would help. I keep looking at the car thinking I am going to try and fix it since Todd can't figure it out and it just blows my mind. I see sooo much s%&@t twisted here and there I just say "forget it". I am affraid I will screw something up. Plus, I have no idea where everything goes.... Trying to learn, but a little overwhelmed.
Every little bit helps.
The way I look at it, all it will take is one person helping that has wires as screwed up as ours and maybe we can get the answer we need!! hehe

 

If anyone reads this post since I have been gone soooo long.. I have to tell you something..
Anyway, the Camaro still runs like **** (it's a LITTLE better) and it just flunked emissions but... After all the advice you guys gave me and all the money we put into this car, Todd found out he had ALL the vaccum wires backwards....
This car will never run normal... I can tell there is still a vacuum leak somewhere, but I can't find a diagram for an 85 with a 2.8.
If anyone has one, it would by helpfull.. maybe.. hehe

 

In the next post I'll include pic of location of the fan sensor switch in the passenger side cylinder head.

1985 smog set up is a ONE YEAR STAND ALONE SET UP.

Yes the ECM will cause constant running fan.
I know, I had it, I replaced stuff, then replaced ECM.
Was shown to me later on ECM had a BURNT/SHORT spot on circuit board. That short caused MY constant running fan problem.
The ITEM YOU HAVE LOCATED ON THE INTAKE MANIFOLD BEHIND THE AC COMPRESSOR IS PART of the fan relay system.

When in doubt, go to the sources & find pics.
For you, the GM parts counter is the BEST SPOT.
They have exploded diagram & the parts list, can print that out & give to you.
It's what GM designed & uses to locate the stuff you have been seeking.
The GM HELMS shop book is the absolute best for the answers you have been seeking, it's costly at $65 new (or more).
NO other book has the wiring diagram like this book.
BUT FOR FUN the HELMS book DOES NOT offer the vacuum hose routing! Why, Legalities & ability to reprint & faslify a "car" for a certain purpose (legalese for forging a car & that's a NO NO-serious)

The vacuum hose pic, glad to offer to you.
PATCH all lines with 5/16" windshield wiper hose. The PVC hose by base of distb. driver side is THICK WALLED 1/2" HEATER HOSE (short about 1" - 2") & lots of grunt & a sore back.
When I did my vacuum hoses mission I took a whole day of patching. PLASTIC IS NOT AVAILABLE NEW only old, easy to break stuff like now in wrecking yard.

The hoses WILL NOT cause the constant running fan.
You are NOT that lucky.

IF someone totally butchered this ride beyond help, I'd dump the ride. Wiring gremlins WILL drive ya nuts & cost ya $$$$$ to fix, sometimes.
Why I know?
Been there, all too often.

I have finally gotten my 3.4 Firebird to run SO CLEAN one of the test results is actually ZERO pollutants. Notice I'm in LA & I'm tagged as a "test only" no adjustments allowed, only test, pass or not. I pass & drives people smog nuts as they can't steal my money for "fixing it to pass".

ALL my 1985 Firebird sensors are the originals. I have only replaced the fan sensor switch in the passenger side cylinder head (due to breakage during 2.8 removal). ALL other sensors (when able to) were hand clean or polished on a bench grinder.

Hope these are good clues that lead you to solution or helping to decided to dump ride & start with fresh blood.
Serious, believe us, these things are/should be there that we have been offering ya.
Not many can truly help (see your problem/wiring), as you have car & yes it is frustrating.
Keep at it or dump ride.
I kept at it & was rewarded with a great car!