:hail: We have a 1985 Camaro with a 2.8L, V-6.
I am ready to take a baseball bat to it.. When I drive it stalls all the time and now it is surging.
My husband got burned out working on it since he does it for a living, but now this car has him stumped.
He just adjusted the timing after it was 180 degrees off for almost 1 year.
The water pump has now been replaced, hoses have been replaced, rebuilt trans, and tomarrow it will get a fuel pressure regulator.
It was stolen 1 year ago and has never been the same since.
Any ideas if the regulator doesn't solve the problem??
Please help.. ANY input would be greatly appreciated...
Dennine2

 

Replace alternator & the ICM
Do a distributor rebuild on it.
Don't bother with the fuel stuff, just yet.
My alternator was overcharging & fryin the ICM'S (LIKE SIX OF THEM)!
Bet it overheats, too.
Do alternator swap & could be quite fine.

 

I am not very engine knowledgable, but wouldn't the Regulator be the first thing to replace?
If the car is surging, doesn't that usually mean the it is having problems getting fuel???
It goes through A LOT of gas and the engine seems to run fine first thing in the morning when it's cool. As soon as the engine warms up is when I start having my problems.
The fan also keeps coming on and staying on...
It acts like it is starving for fuel, but the fuel filter, injectors, etc. have all been replaced.
So tell me why you think your response could be the problem?
I am not questioning you I am just curious.

 

IS your SES light on?
If so pull the codes.
When someone says there car runs fine cold, but once warmed up it runs like crap (IE: Stalls, surges, hesitates) it always seems to be the dreaded MAF(Mass Air Flow) sensor has just died.

Just a thought on something you should check into.

 

Just replaced that too!!!! Like I said, I am ready to take a baseball bat to the car. Could the Catallitic conv. have anything to do with it???

 

Yes it can- especially if the motor burns alot of oil it can really start to plug the catalytic converter. The car will run o.k. until it gets warm them bog down like there is no fuel when it gets hot and expands(plugging flow in the expansion). Its like putting a potato in the exhaust tailpipe. I beleive YOU may have hit the nail on the head yourself- good diagnossis.

 

I will try that and let you know what happens. Anymore suggestions would still be appreciated.

 

You fan IS CONSTATNLY OPERATING?
Replace the ECM (engine computer).
That happened to me.
Opened up the bad ECM, it was FRIED!
Big ol burnt spot on the circuit board.
I did the dance to "find" the bad circuit/fuse.
Replaced ECM, engine fan operated normally (cycled on & off, properly-my problem & my solution).
Alternator-These V-6 mills and their computers need 100% accurate electricals.
IF the alternator is flaky, it CAN cause problems.
My alternator caused me to burn thru SIX Ignition Control Modules (thus shutting off car when ever it felt like to due to high engery spike going thru the ICM & it fried) and also caused flickering headlights.
Once replaced alternator, car ran smooth & powerful again. No more buring up ICM's so far, either (I chased that ghost for about a year!)
My causes of problems my solutions.

If suspicious of the CC, simply cut it off & replace the pipe with a temp test pipe from parts store (or make one). See if that works. I'd bench test teh alternaotr before I dove under car for cutting, myself.

What year ride ya got?

 

The cat can as AGood2.8 said.
Did you replace the MAF with a new one or used? I know ppl who have replaced with used and just bought another fried one.

The ECM is a good place to look to as Ked said. Very rare, but if it did go your car would have no idea how to operated the FI system involved.

 

Ya know, I got the weirdest car on earth.
I have all the groundbreaking one of a kind problems.
Alternators that are bad, yet never kill batteries by draining them.

My ECM had literally a fried spot on the circuit board. I sold the bad one to someone and they pointed that problem out.
The buyer of my bad ECM wanted to experiment on an ECM and didn't care if mine was bad.
I never opened the ECM, the buyer did. He showed me what I now report.
My FI system was never affected by the ECM/Fan constant on problem.
The electric fan just constantly ran. Until I swapped the ECM. Not a problem with that issue since.
Incidentially, this constant fan on is a big problem.
WHY
Ya burn up/seize the fan motor and what's next on the list of failure?
PLUS it kills the alternator by keep it charging which causes.......
Again why year car ya got?
I have a list or replacment ECMs for the 1985 Model year only.
1985 emission hose & related electronics is a one year, stand alone design. It's also the first year of the MPFI sytem all across the GM product line. This 1985 stuff is most simple, yet, only one year stuff ya need/use for fixing-for SOME items.
When ya choose to replace your ECM ya RETAIN THE PROM and swap it over to the "new subject" ECM.

Never give away your original issued by GM assembly line PROM.
NEVER.
That may cause SO MANY PROBELMS ya don't want to know......
I was warned of that & I still follow that advice today.

 

Using up tons of gas is probably just a tuneup problem. If your husband hasn't done it already, he should check the location of the groove in the balancer. If the balancer's outer ring slipped because the rubber "isolation ring" deteriorated, the mark won't point to 0 degrees advance anymore. He might've checked timing and set it to 10 degrees advance (correct stock value), but if the balancer ring slipped, the engine might be at 15 or 20 degrees advanced.

Here's a ton of information on how to check it, along with a few experiences: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=140065 Basically, he'll find TopDeadCenter of Piston #1 (which is the front PASSENGER side cylinder, not the front driver's side cylinder!!!! Every other motor has the #1 cylinder on the driver's side, but the 2.8/3.1/3.4 has it on the passenger side!!!), for the compression stroke. Then he'll look at the balancer mark to see if it lines up with 0 degrees on the timing tab.

Like KED, I'm also thinking the ignition module. That's the classic "drives fine when cold, stalls when hot, won't start until it's cool, repeat over and over again" ignition module death scenario. I wonder, too, did the theives rip apart the column? If the key is left to "on" for a long time, you can overheat an ignition module even though the engine isn't running. Maybe when they stole it, after it was recovered, the missing ignition switch left the key in the "run" position, and it burnt up the module? Either that, or, the lock rod to the ignition switch might be shot.

There's two bits to an ignition switch, as I recently found out (visit https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=162390 for my story). First obvious part is the ignition lock, where the key goes. Second bit is the ignition switch, which is located at the base of the column, under the dash, at the top of the column. Do you have a tilt steering wheel? Maybe the theives bent the rod connecting the switch to the lock, or broke the rack that connects the lock to the rod. The car might be shutting itself off when you move the steering wheel. Kinda like someone driving down the road and turning the car on/off.

The fuel pump could also be dying. I'm guessing he checked the fuel pressure on it, because that's how you diagnose a bad regulator, with a fuel pump gauge.

Keep us posted on how it goes! Diagnostics like this really help us out, chances are this same kind of thing will happen to one of us eventually.

 

Keep us posted on how it goes! Diagnostics like this really help us out, chances are this same
kind of thing will happen to one of us eventually.

TOM, YOU KEEP THIS CURSE UP I'M GONNA FLY TO NEW JERSEY & DUMP YOU INTO THE NEWARK SMELLY TRASH PITS FOR IGNITING!!!!

I finally got my Wife calm enough to accept driving the Firebird, like it's a normal operating car.
Not a gambling contraption (Do ya feel Lucky Punk, Well do ya?)!

 

Okay, I appreciate all your replies but we need to try and eliminate the problem. Funds are low..
We just put in the fuel regulator, still is hesitating and the car isn't even warmed up yet.
When they stole the car they just busted the steering column. The car only had 1/8 of a tank of gas so they didn't get very far. They tried to pry open the gas tank (we have a locking gas cover) and they bent they neck pretty good but they never got it off.
Anyway, I forgot to tell you one more thing, when I am driving down the road, the car seems to be running fine and then all of the sudden the car will accelorate without me pushing down harder on the gas. When it does this, if I come to a stop light and don't push down on the brake hard, it will keep trying to go.
When the car starts to do this it is one of the signs when I know that it is usually going to stall.
I will keep you updated, please keep up the suggestions. We have to hit it sooner or later.. HOPEFULLY!! If not, we may be giving away a Camaro. I may be divorced and killed in the process, but I'm to that point... hehe
My husband is telling me to ask you what the timing is suppose to be set at. 6, 8, or 10 degrees??? Thanks.

 

Timing is 10
BUT ya gonna do this first...
Put a 17MM nut & ratchet on the crank nut.
Pop off distributor cap.
Move engine over by hand and notice the rotor.
HOW SOON DOES ROTOR MOVE?
IF it take awhile for rotor to move as ya move crank. The timing chain is stretched.
MEANING setting timing won't truly matter, infact it'll run more poor. To get idle good, swing distributor toward firewall, just set by ear (smooth idle is the answer).
IF car idles ok, then leave timing alone.
Concentrate on electronics AND vacuum signals. Check vacuum hose at BASE OF DISTRIBUTOR ON THE DRIVER SIDE ENGINE BLOCK.
IT's a 1/2" hose, short section. That's one reason for a weird idle signal, you have a vacuum hose break.
KEEP searching for "simple" solution, not electronics, YET check connections including vacuum hoses.
Yeah a broken vacuum hose can cause it to idle quick & also can cause it to stall.
Bummer about the gas tank don't discount a bad gas cap, tho, also.


Anyway, I forgot to tell you one more thing, when I am driving down the road, the car seems to be running fine and then all of the sudden the car will accelorate without me pushing down harder on the gas. When it does this, if I come to a stop light and don't push down on the brake hard, it will keep trying to go. When the car starts to do this it is one of the signs when I know that it is usually going to stall.


This is a sure sign of that back vacuum hose that has been damaged on the engine block.
Two signs (for me)
HARD BRAKE PEDAL
IDLE INCREASE SPEED
To access this easy ya need remove the TOP of the three piece intake set up. Take top, flip over toward passenger side (no need to disconnect anything) & have at it. Replace the hose by using lots of motor oil to lube ends to slip over fittings.

 

Checked everything you suggested. In fact a couple of hoses were replaced a few days ago. Todd said he did whatever else you suggested.
Another question, kind of off the topic. When you open the hood, on the drivers side of the car in front of the wheel well and by the horm, there is a bolt with a wire attached. Our wire is cut and Todd doesn't know what it is for. He just said it's a ground wire. Anyone have any clues.
Todd is redoing the timing now. He is getting frustrated because the car isn't getting up to the rpms needed to time it correctly.
I guess that's what's going on.... What is the car supposed to idle at (rpm's) in Park, while adjusting timing. In gear shouldn't it be 800rpms???
Need more HELP!!

 

Okay, sorry guys, just need all the help we can get at this point.
He told me to ask you about something else. When we first got the catalitic (sp) converter that is currently on the car, Todd was trying to do something ( I don't know what) and the CC turned BRIGHT red. What causes this and could that cause it to go bad??
This was about 1 year ago..
Thanks again...

 

If converter is cherry red, its BAD. Go get a new one. That is your stalling problems.

On my s10 2.8l, the balancer spun like tomp suggested, check that.

If the car accelerates on its own, I "think" that could be your tps. Have him throw a DVM on it, and test it. Procedure he prob. knows since hes a mechanic. If not, any haynes/chiltons tells you how.

 

WITH ALL YA DOING NOW, is the CC stil getting cherry red?
IF SO replace it and then work forward.
Even if ya insert a "test pipe" until ya get a CC, do it.
Can't test ride if it don't run!
Good thoughts!

 

get the MAP sensor tested/check the vacuum line to it. I've heard of some of the gm tbi trucks running crappy do to a bad one.

 

No, the CC isn't red now. It just got red soon after we put it on the first time. It hasn't gotten red since. He was just wondering if it could have messed it up when it got that hot the first time.
Does anyone know about the ground wire I asked about?

UPDATE:
Got the timing adjusted. Car is running MUCH smoother than before. I just ran up to the convienence store and it did well until I got about a half mile up the road. Then it tried to die on me.
The tack isn't jumping all over now.
I noticed driving home that besides trying to die on me, it doesn't want to kick into 3rd gear. It is staying in second now. I didn't try flooring it to see if it would kick up because I don't want to mess anything up...

 

In response to the MAP sensor. The sensor is not vacum driven
it has a sensor hooked up to it. Our 84' was vacum operated, this one is not!
That was replaced about 1 year ago and have had no problems with it.
Is there a way to test the ECM or the ICM or are there some kind of troubleshooting technics that can give you a clue about one or the other.????

 

ICM can be tested at local parts store. Zone, orileys, etc.

My tach was bouncing around, car stalling, etc, I replaced ICM and Coil at same time. Problem fixed.

 

As soon as that catalytic converter went red, it was shot. replace it along with a new o2 sensor and you will be good to go.

 

I'm truly mortified that noone has mentioned that the cheap $30 Idle Air Control valve could be toast on this note =\

And Ked, calm down about the cooling fan.. I've got mine rigged to run whenever the car is on and have discovered that these fans *do not* give out on a whim.

Honestly, though, I have little worthy advice.. I'm more watching this for the outcome as a means of possibly getting my mom's station wagon to freakin stop the exact same kinda thing =\

I would also like to note that while yes, TBI vehicles have MAP sensors, Mass Airflow vehicles don't. That's the whole point of MAF vs. MAP.

 

my car, & Karls have MAf & MAP sensors, they're just not speed density setups. they're by the coil/egr solinoid bracket.

 

I thought about the IAC, but I have never seen one to cause the car to take off like she described.

 

UPDATE:
I have spent half the day at a a friends checking out this fricken
car. (sorry about the language) He sawed off the C.Coverter.
It was completely melted inside.
Thank godness Auto Zone replaced it. It had a lifetime warranty.
But, instead of putting the new Cat. on, I am driving around with a pipe in place of the Cat. (Yes, I know that's illegal. Not much I can do though).
Had the car tested and the ECM is bad. So, since according to the shop I was at today, the ECM has been bad for a long time. He said that is probably what made the Cat go bad (It got red the first day the shop put it on).
So, I am driving around w/o a Cat until I can get ahold of an ECM.
Won't be able to do that until this weekend (payday) Kind of pointless to put on a brand new Cat when it will just melt again w/o the good ECM and I don't know if I could get lucky enough the second time to get a new one.
Hopefully everything else will be fine after all of this..
I will let you know what happens next.
If this doesn't solve the problem, like I said before, I may be divorced and dead (hehe) but I will be giving away a Camaro!

 

So the car's still stalling out? Or is it fine now?

A bad computer could only kill a catalytic convertor if the car was running overly rich; gas will break up a catalytic convertor's pellet bed. So; how was the "car tested" to determine that the ECM was bad?

 

I went to my Husband's work and tested it with Auto X-Ray machine and the thing said the ECM had no responses or it wasn't able to access. So the ECM is FRIED!!!!!!!! There will be a new one installed this weekend.

 

Yep.. yep.. fried ECU will definitely throw a wrench into the gears.. or a breaker bar.. maybe a couple thousand .68 cal BBs...

 

A fan on all the time will eventually fry/damage something.
Especially if the ECM causes it.
That was my problem.
I replaced my ECM & car behaved normally.
An fan on off switch is an option.
The way the factory set up the V-6 cooling system, is superior to us doing the on/off cycling.
Until I fix my front nose piece correctly, I placed a larger air dam under the front end. Works very effectivly for low speed cooling.
I've had fan motors blow out on this ride twice.
Previous owner & with me as owner.
My fan failure time, it failed with family in car & it was raining.
Luckily, it died infront of an old friends house.
We had some beer, they gave me ride to parts store & $35 late on, problem solved.
Dead fan made me miss a meal with the in-laws. Really broke my heart! Right!

 

You were lucky it died in front of a friends house..
The car is still trying to die but nothing like it was. My biggest problem now it that it REALLY surges until it gets to 3rd gear. At least it gets to 3rd now.
I am trying to drive it as little as possible until we get the ECM.
Don't want it to get to the point were the ECM just shuts everything down to the point where it won't run at all.
Hopefully with it running like this for so long, it hasn't damaged more than the ECM.
Keeping fingers crossed!!!!!!

 

Try adjusting the TV Cable for the transmission. That may smooth out the shifts.

 

Well, if you're sure that the ECM/fuel pump fuse underneath the hood wasn't melted, which will also show up as "unable to access computer" or "computer not connected" on a diagnostics screen... just curious; why are you guys buying a new one? Or did you mean new as in "used"?

 

Todd says this car doesn't have a fuse for the ECM!!!! I don't know!! I am just SICK AND TIRED OF THIS!!! We are currently argueing about the ECM. He says "We have to buy a new one" and I am telling him we can't afford it and we could temporarily buy a used one. He says that it's too much work to change it and you don't buy used electrical stuff... I don't know, I guess I am just the female

 

OH PLEASE!
For my 1985,
I bought a used ECM from a 1985 Corvette for $17 including shipping.
I sold my bad one (that caused my constant running electric fan problem) for $17.
I used that one for two years.
Then I thought I had an ECM problem and got another from a yard for about $30.
My second problem (that caused me to get the 2nd ECM) turned out to be a crossed wire in front at junction box. I never should have bought me that spare one.
So I have a spare good used one for me incase.
Used ECMs are nothing to fear.
They work they don't IF NOT return to yard for another under warranty.
Go grab ECM, undo two three (EASY ACCESS) bolts remove a panel or two, clip off clip on harness done.

Really bloody simple job.

AGAIN WHAT YEAR CAR YA GOT.
I only have a list of ECM's swap for the 1985 model year.

I grabbed my second ECM from a Pontiac 6000.
Hollander book gives ya the model cars to hunt for in yard.
Then look for most "perfect" candidate in the yard.

It's such a simple operation.
Again, the ECM works or it don't-results instant!
I've done two swaps and both were perfect results. I am currently running with the 2nd ECM in car now, since last year and numerous alternator high voltage spiking problems that fried my ICMs-6 of them!! No worry with the ECM it's so simple.
Why throw away a car for a $30 fix? Buy the yard part warranty for a few pennies more

 

Used ECM here

If your local yard doesn't have one, I got mine from car-part.com. If nothing else, that is a great site to look at to learn which ones will interchange with yours, to go hit the yards more.

I have heard, even if the ecm is same number, the prom inside could be different, so I still got me a camaro one.

I think I payed 50?? for my ecm.

 

ALWAYS KEEP THE CARS ORIGINAL PROM
Treat it like a credit card, unlimited balance, never have to pay.
It seems to be that valuable.
MAKE SURE you are grounded spark/static before ya swap ECMs & the PROM.
Swap takes all of 5-15 minutes.
Then test drive car to see what happens.
Bet it does quite well. OR this'll lead ya to the true cause of problem.

I went that route & it was worth it. 6 ICM's WHY?
One bad alternator for too long under hood.

Sometimes lots of trials.
Yet fix is simple.
Been there.

 

I buy used electrical stuff! -especially- if I'm not sure that it'll fix the problem.

The ECM certainly does have a fuse- if it doesn't, a previous owner cut it away. It's the same fuse that gives power to the fuel pump. On your '85 Camaro, it will be under the hood, on the passenger side, on the upper frame rail near the battery. It'll be held to the frame rail with a single 9/32" (7mm) little bolt. Two wires come out of it, one is red, one is orange. If the fuse inside looks good, pull it anyway, and check it with a multimeter; or just replace it. I've had fuses that looked good but didn't work.

While you're at it, give the red wire the wiggle test with the car running. I had this problem with my car. The red wire goes to a positive junction block (also referred to on here as the bulkhead connector). This junction block runs off the positive terminal of the battery, and it has one screw on it; many wires go into that screw. It's like a common connection point. Anyway, my ring terminal on the red wire (from the ECM/fuel pump) fuse was intermittant.

I stalled one day and couldn't get the car started, luckily, I was a half mile from my mechanic. Had him tow the car over, he started looking it over. Told me I had no spark. He rebuilt the distributor for me, still no spark. Tried the computer scan- it told him "no computer found or computer not connected to scanner". Ran further diagnosis, found out my fuel pump wasn't getting any power. He told me he could spend another day trying to find it, or, I could try for myself. (He knows me and my Dad are good with the cars.) So I said I'd try for myself; he hotwired the fuel pump relay, and off I went for home.

Took me 20 minutes to find the bad ring terminal. Cut the old one off, crimped a new one on, and was good to go. Definately check that fuse and the red wire, too.

I wonder if a bad ring terminal would be causing your problems- the car would stall (no computer power and no fuel pump), then when the wire worked again, your computer would have to re-learn the car- which would make for a poorly running car. The ECM needs to learn the motor; I usually tell people after they disconnect their battery (for whatever reason), to go for a 1/2 hour's drive "away" from their house for a half hour, and drive 1/2 hour back home. That usually does the job of relearning the ECM for me.

There's an additional ECM fuse in the fuse panel above the driver's feet, labeled "ECM IGN" (for ECM ignition), too. It's red, 10 amps.

See this message for a color picture of where the fuse is underneath the hood: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=142801

 

Okay, if the red wire is located by the battery, I have another question. When Todd was timing the car, he did something, I don't know exactly what is was and right behind the battery, he caught the car on fire. DON"T ASK!!! hehe
Anyway, he thought it just melted a couple of wires. But, my next thought is..... if he did melt it, then what caused the 1st C. Coverter to go bad??
Okay, help me out... Explain EXACTLY where this wire is and what it does and where the fuse is and if it's with several other fuses, which one is it???
Sorry, I am NOT really car knowledgable and I don't want ANY screw ups!!!
In reply to one of the responses, it is a 1985 with a V-6, 2.8L.
It's fuel injected with a MPI. Okay!
Thanks
p.s. Did anyone figure out what that wire is I described earlier?
The one on the driver side that has been cut? My horn, AC, blah,
blah, blah, don't work either!!!!!

 

Vacuum & EGR hose design
1985 is a stand alone one year design.
1986 & later years, the vacuum EGR hose routing is slightly different.
MPFI Set up is "identical" to MPFI in a Fiero & a FWD GM car line. EXCEPT WITH THE TOP INTAKE MANIFOLD DESIGNS.

The ECMs for a 1985 SWAP FOR 2.8 V-6 MPFI ARE AS FOLLOWS- (from Hollander book!)

ALL VEHICLES ARE 1985 MODEL YEAR VEHICLES!
YOU WILL SEE THE PART NUMBER
1226870
on a white piece of paper glued to ECM top

Pontiac 6000 2.8 W/MPFI
Camaro 305 FI
Camaro V-6 MPFI
Cavalier V-6
Celebrity 2.8 MPFI
Cimmarron (Caddy) 2.8 MPFI
Citation V-6 VIN "W"!!!!
1985 Corvette (I got this option first time & still have that spare ECM cause it's good saved for my future ECM failure)
1985 Firebird 305 V-8 FI
1985 Firebird V-6 MPFI
Olds Firenza V-6 FI
Buick Skylark V-6 FI

I have a 1985 Firebird
The second used ECM from yard I scored the Pontiac 6000. Car looked like a Mom & Dad drove that car.
$30 & still is perfect ECM.
As mentioned I also purchased & USED the 1985 Corvette ECM, for $17
BOTH TIMES I REUSED MY ASSEMBLY LINE GIVEN ORIGINAL PROM. Just removed other PROM, inserted my original, away I went! When I started car, it ran SO SMOOTH. Then awaited the fan to cycle on & off, which it has from that day on (except when the replaced fan motor died!).

Your wiring....
May need to find schematic to do the work needed for secure electrical connections & operations.

That junction block in front by air cleaner on a 1985 Firebird? Right on radiator support passenger front on my 1985 Firebird.
My wires crossed due to previous owner accident.
FOR OVER A YEAR, the car wouldn't shut off with key!
I had to pop coil wire off to shut off car.
Finally found those junction block wires to be crossed.
I wrapped ends better & no problems since.

I hoped I offered good clues.

I'd sort out wiring first then try an ECM swap.
Motor shop books offer the wiring schematic, as I have the 1985 edition. I was searchign for wiring answers, got the answers from the book & GM factory Helms manuals.
The vacuum hose answer I got from a Chiltons shop manual. They showed the vacuum hose answers with complete illustrations. Before I saw those Chilton book charts, I had no idea 1985 was a one year hose design for EGR & vacuum hose routing.

 

Alright guys.. Real quick question, I need an answer ASAP!!
On the drivers side on the right side of the steering column, behind the dagnostic plug, there are 3 fuses. One is silver and round which I know is the hazard/turn signal fuse. What is the white square one and the long rectangle black one????
Thanks//

 

long black one is what makes the buzzer sound. I think the other one is the horn relay

 

HELP!!!!! SOMEONE PLEASE COME FIX THIS CAR!!!!!
REPLACED THE ECM!!!! JUST SPENT $80.00!!!! It idles smooth and doesn't die now but evey time you start the car, the fan stays on, the heater won't work, and engine light won't work (checked the fuse and it's fine, replaced the bulb too!)
Now when I drive down the road I have the gas peddle set. Example: I can be going 35mph and I WONT move my foot and the car will kick in and go 40mph.
I am disappointed and frusted... Please, need more help!!
Thanks AGAIN

 

I can only ask these questions
You did swap old orignal prom to the "other" ECM?
WITH THIS LATEST FIX, what was done?
ONLY SWAPPED ECM's? or anything else?
Like trying to fix wires & such same time of ECM swap??

IF the AC set up is activaetd (by HVAC switch), you may be activating the "tell the fan to turn on" system.
With AC system on, the fan goes on automatically, too.

Clues for ya?

 

Yes I put the orignal prom's back in the new ECM. the fuses by the battery I replaced, the wires are fine. Now the fan stays on even when you start the car, the heater won't come on now and the RPMs kick up when you don't press on the gas when going down the road. Could this be the ICM or the TPS or something else?????? HELP this car is driving me CCCRRRAAAZZZZYYYYY!! Also the engine light wont come on either and I replaced the bulb. I'm getting very stumped.

 

SOMEHOW ya got the AC switch on the HVAC activated.
Fan goes on when the AC system activated.
You kinda confirm this by saying the heater does not come on. I'll bet it's on defrost (next to heater selection), which also activated the AC system (fan on) to defrost the windows.

 

there is one problem with that the ac dosn't work it has no belt or is the plug hooked up. so how could that be????? if so could the heater controls be bad? if so I have an extra one that came from my '84 camaro.
Could my ICM or TPS be bad???? let me know please!!!!!!!!!

 

I went to the store lastnight and SUPRISE, the engine light came on. The car is still running horrible!!!!! It is surging really bad and the engine light comes on and off.
Tried to get diagnostic codes from a hand held x-ray thing at Todd's work this morning and the only thing that came up was a bad coolant something... I don't remember, I was half asleep!! That still doesn't explain everything else.
I keep trying to do the diagnostic codes with a wire and the check engine light wont even come on.
I keep telling Todd that I bet it's a vacum leak somewhere but he insists that it's not.
I don't understand why it is accelorating so much while I am driving?? Any CLUES???
HELP ASAP>>>> :hail:

 

if you are still having probs. with surging, check your TPS sensor and your IAC valve they may just need replaced. My brother had a similar problem with him and now it was just the IAC valve. Hope that helps.