setting timing
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Joined: Feb 2003
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From: chesapeake va
Car: 08 Sierra, 08 Silverado, 91 z28
Engine: 5.3, 4.3, 5.7
Transmission: autos
setting timing
i feel so dumb to ask this but ive never set timing...how do i do it? i just need it turned up a little so it will stop dieing on me...can someone help me??
thanks alot guys
thanks alot guys
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Travis AFB, CA
Car: 05 Nissan Xterra
Engine: 4.0L DOHC
Transmission: 5 Speed Auto w/ OD
I'm not sure, but I know on some older cars, you don't have to take the cap off. All you do is loosen a screw, which I don't know which one, and it should turn. It may not require loosening a screw, have you tried it?
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From: Garland, TX, USA
Car: 1992 Camaro RS & 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 3.1 L v6 & 305 (5.0L) v8
Transmission: 4L60 Auto
First you need to losen the bolt on the stem of the distributor that holds it to the block, NEXT unplug the black connector with the brown wires going into it. Located over by the A/C fan motor area. START car, hook up timing light, and aim and point. I believe 10* advance in park is what your looking for on the crank timing mark. Just turn the whole distributor until you get it right and tighten it back down. You'll hear the engine change tune when playing with the distributor, 100% ok just move it in small amounts and watch the light!!! Check it after it's tight to be sure it didn't move. Turn car off, plug back in the connect and you may have to clear the codes if the light comes on during the next Start.
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Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Castaic, CA
Car: 1988 Camaro RS
Engine: 2.8L of Raw POWER!!!
Transmission: Stick Shift
Axle/Gears: 3.42's
ok, here's what you need to do.
There is a bolt on the back-passenger side of the engine at the base of the distributor. Get a flashlight, look down there and find it, it'll have what looks like a horseshoe attached to it and going around the distributor.
You'll need a 15mm socket, a swivel, a 6" extension, and a ratchet. assemble in this order: Ratchet->Extension->Swivel->Socket.
You will need to fit your hand down there to guide the socket onto the bolt head, but once it's on, you can lossen it just a tad.
Then you can grab the entire cap and twist it counter-clockwise to advance the timing, and clockwise to retard it. That's if your standing in front of the car, of course it's backwards if you like to work on your car from atop the windsheild (don't know why, but would be interesting to watch).
Once you have the timing set to wher you want it, tighten the bolt back down and drive happy. Stock timing is 10* BTDC, while I have personally found that my car likes to run between 12* and 14*. My car is kinda like my girlfriend, depends on her mood that day.
Hope this helps...
There is a bolt on the back-passenger side of the engine at the base of the distributor. Get a flashlight, look down there and find it, it'll have what looks like a horseshoe attached to it and going around the distributor.
You'll need a 15mm socket, a swivel, a 6" extension, and a ratchet. assemble in this order: Ratchet->Extension->Swivel->Socket.
You will need to fit your hand down there to guide the socket onto the bolt head, but once it's on, you can lossen it just a tad.
Then you can grab the entire cap and twist it counter-clockwise to advance the timing, and clockwise to retard it. That's if your standing in front of the car, of course it's backwards if you like to work on your car from atop the windsheild (don't know why, but would be interesting to watch).
Once you have the timing set to wher you want it, tighten the bolt back down and drive happy. Stock timing is 10* BTDC, while I have personally found that my car likes to run between 12* and 14*. My car is kinda like my girlfriend, depends on her mood that day.

Hope this helps...
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Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Garland, TX, USA
Car: 1992 Camaro RS & 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 3.1 L v6 & 305 (5.0L) v8
Transmission: 4L60 Auto
2_point8_boy thats great and all but you forgot to tell him to disconnect the computer advance while he is doing it, thats what the black connector with brown wires does. Other wise the computer will mess up what your trying to do.
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,832
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From: Castaic, CA
Car: 1988 Camaro RS
Engine: 2.8L of Raw POWER!!!
Transmission: Stick Shift
Axle/Gears: 3.42's
dammit, I knew i was forgetting somthing. The EST connector comes out of the big black wire loom on the passenger side firewall. You can't miss it, it's big and gray. Disconnect it before you start the car to set the timing. Thanks Ryan_Alswede.
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,832
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From: Castaic, CA
Car: 1988 Camaro RS
Engine: 2.8L of Raw POWER!!!
Transmission: Stick Shift
Axle/Gears: 3.42's
mine is grey and comes out of the loom over by the heater blower. I also have a grey one that is for the tach, but it's way closer to the coil.
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,832
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From: Castaic, CA
Car: 1988 Camaro RS
Engine: 2.8L of Raw POWER!!!
Transmission: Stick Shift
Axle/Gears: 3.42's
is it a quick jump or does it go up slowly, then jump down, and back up slowly, etc? If it's the slow, regular kinda change, then it sounds like you might have a vacuum leak.
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From: chesapeake va
Car: 08 Sierra, 08 Silverado, 91 z28
Engine: 5.3, 4.3, 5.7
Transmission: autos
i think mines streched, im just gonna replace it, the idle is loopie and i think that is the cause, thanks for the help telling me how to set the timing, it did work out as yall said
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,049
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From: Garland, TX, USA
Car: 1992 Camaro RS & 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 3.1 L v6 & 305 (5.0L) v8
Transmission: 4L60 Auto
Depends on the mileage, if your 100k or so I won't bother, sometimes the engine will miss and mess up the results on the crank, thats why it moves around.
It goes back and forth pretty fast, I hear a hiss coming from the middle rear of the car but I can't find the sucker. I've used a mechanics stethoscope and tried carb cleaner (something like that) to see if iI hear it surge but no cigar.
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,049
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From: Garland, TX, USA
Car: 1992 Camaro RS & 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 3.1 L v6 & 305 (5.0L) v8
Transmission: 4L60 Auto
Then I would invest in a timming chain from summit for our engines, if you want perfect timing.
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,832
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From: Castaic, CA
Car: 1988 Camaro RS
Engine: 2.8L of Raw POWER!!!
Transmission: Stick Shift
Axle/Gears: 3.42's
you really can't have performance timing gears. The thought behind pullies is to change the ratio of turns that the engine accessories get off the crank, but the cam ALWAYS has to spin half as fast as the crank.
I may be wrong here, but I've never seen a set of "performance" timing gears, please correct me if I'm wrong though.
I may be wrong here, but I've never seen a set of "performance" timing gears, please correct me if I'm wrong though.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,473
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From: chesapeake va
Car: 08 Sierra, 08 Silverado, 91 z28
Engine: 5.3, 4.3, 5.7
Transmission: autos
i think the advantage is, 1) if u drive the car hard as i do, u wont strech the chain 2) its a little more accurate 3) i love the sound they make
The $30 timing chain set from Dyna Gears is perfect.
I got mine at Pep Boys in Culver City. Ask for Joe the manager, tell him I sent ya.
All this work depends on engine age & wear & tear on the engine. Meaning if ya wanna exert he effort on an aged engine, ya can.
IT may help the engine last longer run stronger and it may not.
Sometimes it's better to let an old engine eventually die
Then injest new power from another running long block.
That's why I did the 3.4 swaps.
I got mine at Pep Boys in Culver City. Ask for Joe the manager, tell him I sent ya.
All this work depends on engine age & wear & tear on the engine. Meaning if ya wanna exert he effort on an aged engine, ya can.
IT may help the engine last longer run stronger and it may not.
Sometimes it's better to let an old engine eventually die
Then injest new power from another running long block.
That's why I did the 3.4 swaps.
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