So far so good- Can you say "Slurp"

Plenium flange walls are ground thin so what I have decided on doing is to simply weld the TB to the upper plenium (Its a spare unit that I have to work on- leaving original plenium and TB in tack for stock motor).

 

another front pic

 

weld points

 

Make that work on my 3.4l intake

 

Here an older pic I have previously posted that shows comparison of the stock 52mm TB and the 62 mm TB sitting on the STB above.

 

Spiffy dude....I'd like to see how that works out. So the throttle blade assembly is all the same? Where'd you pick up the new TB?

 

Shameless space-wasting.. POST # 2003! BOO-YEAH!

 

No, The butterfly is aftermarket as well ( came assembled with the unit) I disassembled it so I can inspect/measure and final grind the tube flow angle from the TB to center plenium. It kind of ramps up and I will be smoothing out the transiton more after I weld some more meat into the casting via repetitive weld beads. I want it at least 62mm al the way into the larger plenuim opening up inside about 4 inches- It starts about 56mm where the TB attaches and then tapers open to about 70+mm as it snakes upward into the plenuim. Only about the first 1' to 1 1/2" needs to be ported and velocity straightened a slight bit for better flow.

This is the TB I purchaced from FDP about 6 months ago, same link we've seen many times. http://www3.sympatico.ca/fjpeters/throttlebodies.htm

 

 

In the beginning..... (High performance V6 build-up begins)... Hopefully PF&E will come through with my SS headers and Y-pipe coated (I have been told the headers have been completed for awhile now- still awaiting the y-pipe completion), They will replace these headers and then - ITS FULL COMMITMENT, full steam ahead once I have them in my hands for certain.

*HT3.4 new crate motor- .454" lift cam when used w/ 1.5 rockers
*Supersix heads w/ 1.8" intake- Fully ported & polished- Dual springs
*1.6 gold aluminum rockers
*Fiero windage tray
*Fully ported and polished intake and runners (may extrude hone, haven't yet decided. I'll see what I can reach first)
*62mm TB
*19lb injectors w/ Holley AFPR
*High flow fuel pump(Already in there thank g@d)
*PF&E Stainless steel headers and y-pipe Ceramic Coated
*Fiero valve covers- (Decided to ceramic coat/ not polish)
*Electric cutout just AFTER high flow Cat- Noise reduction from cat but does not hurt flow (Have the same Gibson unit on my 325HP truck and there is no power difference with or without it)
*BeCool Aluminum Rad / 175* running temp
* Every ounce sqeezed out of her with a custom calibrated prom with the future help of Kevin91Z's knowledge and experience.

* and a license plate that hopefully reads "ONRAILS"

 

Agood, that windage tray, I have seen it, wondered myself. I was sure it would work on this engine, but what is its true benefit???

I really wish I could cough up the change for them heads, but I gotta get a place to live first!!

 

The windage tray slows down the air flow in the crank case generated by the crank assembly turning at high speeds. What happens is the crank will start to cavitate the oil pan because of the crank "dipping" into the oil in the pan and throwing it against the side wall of the block. This windage try allows for a cavitation area between the crank and the oil in the pan and in a sence baffles it away more and more the higher the rpm's- but allowing oil to flow around it and underneath for pickup as not to starve the motor of lubrication.

Windage trays actually help with power because the crank rotates more feely at revs somewhat- I run a windage tray, baffles, crank scraper and 7 qt oil sump on my Vette- have to, that can turns 8500rpms and corners hard- lots of potential for oil cavitation

Best analogy I can give is like spinning a bicycle tire freely in the air and then dipping it about an inch deep into a pool of water- the spray of water will emulate the oil spray of the crank assembly in the oil pan. Also not the restriction of rotation freedom when you dip it into water- it slows much faster of course.


P.s. About the have to live somewhere and buy a house part: I'm in the same boat- fortunately I own one and am close to finishing my 10 year extensive remodel (completely by myself) I'm 6 1/2 years into it and 3/4 of the way finished. (I'm in the contruction business but am doing this house completely without hireing any other help- where talking room addtions, cabinets, roof, marble, etc... all by myself. Its a goal of mine )

 

Thanks for description. I'm still somewhat lost. But if I get the money sometime, it will go on. I fell I can spend that money elsewhere right now, and get a better benifit.

Good job on the house, its hard work. This house I live in right now looks NOTHING like it did when we moved in.

Added sliding back door in brick house, 3 layer deck, full landscaping, both bathrooms twice, kitchen once, front door, fans, etc etc.

 

Heres a picture of the valve train setup I am mimicking. 1.6 aluminum roller rockers w/ heavyduty arm studs, Dual valve springs, Modified guide plates, and longer hardened push rods

 

Pics of windage tray and a modified pan that I plan to to emulate in some way- have to account for frame and ground clearence- My oil pressure goes to heII right now under hard g's due to lack of oil control- I will also add baffle compartments in the bottom of the pan to help control cavitation.