power window motor help??
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From: Northwestern Pennsylvania
Car: 1985 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 355 with stuffs.
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.10 Posi
you can use nuts and screws. just make sure they are tight, maybe use a couple lock washers. You don't need rivets, I never used them, and I've never had problems.
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
You could ask this on the body & interior board; the power window motors aren't specific to v6 f-bodies. I have a message up there that you could find with a search that says exactly what I'm about to repeat...
You could use rivets, but they have to be as wide as the factory ones. I used normal Home Depot rivets with backing washers to fill the gap. That allows "slop" in the motor. The whole assembly will rotate before the window moves. After a year or so of that, the rivets fatique, and snap, and you're left with a window that wont' close.
So find a bolt-lockwasher-locknut combination that fits the exact size of the hole in the door. (A locknut is a nut with a plastic insert inside.) If you can't find a locknut, use loctite on the bolt. Assemble it so the bolt head and lockwasher is on the "inside" of the door, and so the nut is the only thing on the "outside" of the door, facing "out" at the seats.
Now you'll say, "but TomP you awesome guy you,
how the heck can I put a wrench on the bolt inside the door? I can barely feel the bolt head with my finger, it's so cramped in there!" Well, that's why you put the lockwasher on the inside of the door. As you tighten the nut with your fingers, the lockwasher (inside the door, against the bolt's head) will stop the bolt from turning. When you start using a socket on the nut, the bolt won't turn. You can tighten that sucker up as tight as you want. Remember to use loctite, either red or blue, on the bolt threads- you don't want them falling out on you when you're 100 miles from home and can't roll up your window and it's raining!!
You could use rivets, but they have to be as wide as the factory ones. I used normal Home Depot rivets with backing washers to fill the gap. That allows "slop" in the motor. The whole assembly will rotate before the window moves. After a year or so of that, the rivets fatique, and snap, and you're left with a window that wont' close.
So find a bolt-lockwasher-locknut combination that fits the exact size of the hole in the door. (A locknut is a nut with a plastic insert inside.) If you can't find a locknut, use loctite on the bolt. Assemble it so the bolt head and lockwasher is on the "inside" of the door, and so the nut is the only thing on the "outside" of the door, facing "out" at the seats.
Now you'll say, "but TomP you awesome guy you,
how the heck can I put a wrench on the bolt inside the door? I can barely feel the bolt head with my finger, it's so cramped in there!" Well, that's why you put the lockwasher on the inside of the door. As you tighten the nut with your fingers, the lockwasher (inside the door, against the bolt's head) will stop the bolt from turning. When you start using a socket on the nut, the bolt won't turn. You can tighten that sucker up as tight as you want. Remember to use loctite, either red or blue, on the bolt threads- you don't want them falling out on you when you're 100 miles from home and can't roll up your window and it's raining!! Thread
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