I get my car back from the shop and it's running like ****. I had the oil pan replaced to give you an idea of whats going on.

But now when the car heats up and you go to stop at a stop sign it wants to die unless you keep your foot on the gas. It has did this once before and I replaced the plugs and wires. The car also can be sitting in park or any other gear and when you move the brake pedal back and forth the tach raises and lowers almost going as low as 500RPM and stalling.

My question is what is the vacum line going to the brake Boosters purpose? Also could that plastic piece in the Brake Booster be my problem. I have one other question regarding vacum when I was looking into this problem I pulled the PCV Valve out and it was covered with oil. I was wondering if this was a bad thing? I have not had anything like that happen with any other car I have owned. I am going to replace the PCV valve of course but I am wondering why it would have oil on it

As always thanks in advance

 

WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF AGED ENGINES & OIL BLOW BY (the piston rings!).
Sounds like you're due for a new mill soon.
May I suggest a 3.4?
Serious, as engine ages, piston in bore, creates an ob-longed hole.
AGED piston rings allow oil to push past, and it "settles" in the PVC area (as that is ONE area of pressure escape from engine combustion-pressure carries the oil "there").
I won't bother asking why the pan change & the cost.
Engine Vacuum "powers" the brake booster.
That plastic item?
IF IN QUESTION
go replace it & THE HOSE, ALSO!
Cost should be about $3!
Ya need replace ALL hoses to elminate an vacuum leaks. Very tedious work, YET the rewards are a smoother running engine.
Patch plastic hard line connections with 5/16" windshield wiper hose.
That one big hose at base of distributor, driver side, on engine block?
YA NEED VERY THICK WALLED 1/2" heater hose, short section (about 1"-3"), for that item.
When I swapped my mills, I spent one whole day just on vacuum hose routing.
THEN later, again, I had to do more vacuum hose work (which required removal of uppper MPFI intake).
ALWAYS WORTH IT AS I have about 17PSI of engine vacuum & that's very good!

 

Thanks for that information, I knew the oil on the PCV valve was not a good thing but didn't know exactaly what could be causing it. Do you have any idea what that black plastic piece is called? I cannot find it anywhere in my Haynes manual. (Which I now keep in the car all the time). I am for sure going to try replaceing that and the hose to. I checked the hose for cracks or any holes but didn't find any. I will replace the hose and the PVC valve while I am doing all this. If that doesn't solve my problem I will dig deeper into the vacum system. Thanks for the information.

 

Do you have any idea what that black plastic piece is called?

IF it's the brake booster piece, they sell them at so many "HELP" sections of the parts stores....
WHEN YA DO THIS VACUUM HOSE MISSION,
Make sure you obtain very thick hose.
Engine vacuum can also cause a hose to collaspe & close upon itself.
AS LONG AS YOUR CAR HAS ALL THE VACUUM HOSES CONNECTED, it is an easy follow the trail/replace hose mission.
Removal of the top of the MPFI is a very simple mission, also.
Those bolts are 12 point socket, 10 mm.
Simply unbolt, then FLIP/ROTATE the top intake toward passenger side, leaving ALL connections attached.
This can be done!
Do NOT disturb any cable connections, NOT NECESSARY.
You SHOULD NOT have to replace that top gasket, IF YA CAREFUL & fortunate!

I would show ya a pic of the 1985 Vacuum hose routing, YET your vehicle hose routing is a different design.
AND your EGR is an electric item, NOT vacuum dependent.
Ya can score a replacement EGR inexpensivly from a early 90's FWD 3.1/3.4 motor in a wrecking yard. Those items are the same & pretty pricey, when new, from dealer.

Have a fun afternoon.
Make sure you stand straight every once in a while to take the presure/strain off your lower back!

 

Did they disconnect the battery when replacing the oil pan and is your car an automatic?

RBob.

 

You mean the piece that the vac line connects to as it goes into the booster? It's the brake booster check valve. On my car, it's white... looks like a 90 degree fitting...

 

Yes my car is an automatic. I am almost positive that they disconnected the negatvie battery terminal considering they had to raise the engine to replace the pan.

Here is an update on the situation. I replaced the PCV Valve, the Power Brake Booster Check Valve, and hose that goes to it. There is still no change in the way it's acting. I am pretty stumped on this one.

I am wondering about the EGR valve and if it could be going bad. Also maybe one of the fuel injectors is going bad. But it gets fuel to start up and doesn't hesitate at all it's only stalls when you are brakeing. The idle does jump back and forth when the car is in park after it has warmed up.

 

You do realize you have a electric EGR, right?
That EGR is the same as on lots of GM FWD cars with 3.1 (hint!)
The EGR is in a fragile location. Be wary of breaking bolts upon removal.